I was in Vancouver last week and tried to squeeze in some serious chowing before the work-related stuff.
Xiao long bao
First of all, inspired by PIGMON’s massive
post on xiao long bao, I was determined to have some soup dumplings while there. Research on Chowhound and elsewhere suggested that the very best spots for Chinese food these days are not in Vancouver proper but rather in the suburb of Richmond, just south of the airport. I therefore resolved to go straight from the airport with my luggage (I pack light) to Shanghai River.
Shanghai River is a fairly big and fairly upscale restaurant across the street from a major shopping mall. I got there at 2 pm and nearly all tables were filled – I was the only non-Asian customer. This place is serious about xiao long bao! The cooks preparing them are on display through a glass wall:
My order came out promptly:
WOW. These dumplings were a revelation. I had only had soup dumplings before in Chicago, and I enjoyed them (as I do all sorts of dumplings), but now I see what xlb are supposed to be like. The wrapper was thin and delicate, but held together perfectly Each dumpling had a generous amount of soup, and both the broth and the pork filling were deliciously flavored. They were great.
An order of 8 xiao long bao at Shanghai River was (Canadian) $6.15, not too bad. However, from another point of view you might say that these were the world’s most expensive xiao long bao, since I spent $21 on a taxi ride down there and $32 on the taxi from there to my hotel. Man, the taxis in Vancouver are expensive! And the U.S. dollar is weak… Oh well, I’m glad I did it. Really fabulous dumplings.
Granville Island Public Market
The posts above by griffin and griffin’s wife about the food market on Granville Island were so impressive that I decided to stay at the hotel on Granville Island, even though it was not at all convenient to where else I needed to be in Vancouver. The market really is fabulous. Here are a couple shots of the marvelous fish available, and some unusual produce:
I also got scones for breakfast the next day at Terra Bakery and some good coffee so I wouldn’t be at the mercy of the hotel’s mediocre brand. Unfortunately the remaining days in Vancouver my conference schedule precluded shopping at the food market again. (The market is open 9 to 7.) But it was still fun to be staying right on the water for great views both in the morning and coming home at night.
Guu with Garlic izakaya
Vancouverites posting on Chowhound routinely recommend Guu with Garlic, an izakaya in the West End neighborhood of Vancouver. There are three Guu restaurants – this “garlic” branch is said to be the best of them. So that’s where I headed my first evening in town, taking the little ferry boat across False Creek.
The place is very small and extremely popular. I went early and got a seat at the bar; by the time I left there was a sizeable line outside of folks standing in the rain till they could get seated.
Izakayas, as I understand it, serve food that goes well with drinks, including a lot of deep fried items. I don’t know if all izakayas are as loud and raucous as Guu is, but the atmosphere there is wild, because the staff are continually shouting. You order something and the waitress or waiter yells out your order in Japanese and the cashier and the cooks all yell it back. Then when the dish comes up the cooks shout again to announce it… wish I could give you a soundtrack of my meal there. There was also a TV screen showing Japanese cartoons but with the sound off (I think).
Three guys in front plus another guy manning a deep fryer off to the side make all the dishes:
The portions here were described as tapas-like and I decided to order just three things, with the idea that I’d go afterwards to Mondo Gelato (recommended above by ToniG) for dessert. Unfortunately, even though I was there early they were already out of one of their specials that had caught my eye, “deep fried bacon and avocado rock and roll”. Too bad! I ordered bonito tataki, tori-karaage, and grilled saba.
First came the bonito tataki (sorry for fuzzy pictures):
I believe this branch of Guu makes a point of serving garlic with everything, and the bonito had slivers of fresh ginger and of raw garlic on the side. Very delicious, perfectly fresh fish.
Then came the tori-karaage, deep fried pieces of boneless chicken thigh meat, with aioli on the side.
This was SO good, maybe the best fried chicken I’ve ever had. As I liberally dipped my pieces into the garlic mayonnaise I began to realize that this wasn’t exactly a light meal I had ordered.
Then my mackerel came out:
This was a very generous piece of grilled fish on a bed of onions, topped with diced tomato, a sprig of dill, and a big handful of sliced garlic, fried crisp. I put aside my chicken to eat the fish while it was hot, and it too was great. I was so full, though, that I couldn’t finish the last chunk of chicken. Gelato afterwards was out of the question.
My only regret about my meal at Guu is that I was alone – if I had gone with others, I could have tried more things. One dish I saw sent out frequently was a ball of deep fried kabocha wrapped around a hard boiled egg. (Let me add, though, that it was completely comfortable for a solo diner at the bar. The Japanese woman next to me was also there by herself.)
I definitely recommend Guu with Garlic to anyone going to Vancouver. The prices are very reasonable too: my three dishes were $21-something before tip. I wish there were an izakaya like that here in Chicago!
Shanghai River
110 - 7831 Westminster Hwy.
Richmond, BC
604-233-8885
Guu with Garlic
1698 Robson Street
Vancouver, BC
604.685.8678