I have never spent any significant amount of time in or around Illinois' largest "college town". My earlier impressions of Champaign-Urbana are of cheap beer, burritos overstuffed with questionable ingredients, and copious amounts of fast food. Culinary commerce in college towns is generally focused on feeding the lowest common denominator at the lowest possible price. While that element is prevalent, I'm glad to see that my pre-conceived notions are not completely correct. Our tastings on a recent short trip to C-U ran from places that have long histories to once place that is clearly raising the bar. Here are the highlights of our brief trip:
Chapter One: Sticks to Your Ribs
Traditional "corn belt" cooking started off the trip with a lunch of local comfort food at The Apple Dumplin'. There's no roadside advertising, no signs pointing the way, and you certainly can't see it from any major road; this is just one of those places that is woven into the rural Urbana community.
There are a few daily specials, which happily included the fried chicken of petit pois' memory:
This is good fried chicken of the lightly-breaded variety. Perhaps slightly under-seasoned, but fresh, juicy, and satisfying. I also enjoyed the green beans with their big, visible chunks of pork.
We also tucked into the chicken-fried steak...
...which I enjoyed even more. It was salty-in-a-good-way and very tender with a hearty gravy.
While the food is good here, it certainly is not a paragon of country cooking. It's probably a couple notches above a Cracker Barrel in quality, and it does have a few odd quirks: they don't serve real butter with their rolls or real cream with their coffee. If you want something other than Country Crock, you have to ask. But, the Apple Dumplin' is long on charm. It's the kinda place that local retirees eat multiple nights a week, and all the kids for miles around are welcomed by name. In fact, they serve on the board of directors:
Here's an exterior shot of The Apple Dumplin', along with a shot of their immediate neighbor to give you some idea of the neighborhood:
Chapter Two: The Soda Fountain
About 30 miles south of Champaign-Urbana is Tuscola, Illinois, home of Flesor's Candy Kitchen. Flesor's originally opened in 1901 and is currently being run by two granddaughters of the original owner. They restored and renovated the quaint corner shop and offer the family's original hand-dipped chocolates, house-made ice cream concoctions at the 1940's era soda fountain. Flesor's is also a diner that has daily specials as well as a Greek special on Saturdays (the Flesor family emigrated from Greece shortly before opening their business).
Main Street Tuscola, Flesor's is unmarked on the left corner
Inside Flesor's
We tasted two flavors of their ice cream unadorned: mint chocolate chip and red raspberry. Both of them were very creamy and clearly well handled, but severely under-flavored. The raspberry is a seasonal flavor and clearly uses fresh berries (an expensive ingredient), but it needed to triple the berry input to get this ice cream anywhere near the flavor profile needed (the same goes for the mint).
The candy, on the other hand, is fantastic. We filled a bag of dark chocolate mint patties, chocolate caramels, dark chocolate toffee, and dark chocolate vanilla creams (my all-time favorite old-timey candy). All of these have a strong taste of chocolate and a well flavored interior. There was a slight grittiness to the insides of the creams, which I found quite pleasing texturally. I'm not sure if this was their normal state or a result of them being kept in our cold cooler.
Flesor's is charming and a real throwback. Well worth the drive.
Chapter Three: This Ain't Flyover Country
Thad Morrow is one of the main reasons we made the trip to C-U. Thad is the chef-owner of two businesses in downtown Champaign: Persimmon Grocery and Bacaro (wine bar and restaurant)--the latter of the two businesses being my main focus.
Persimmon Grocery is a carbon copy of one of the many upscale, storefront groceries that we have in Chicago. It has a nice selection of wines, cheeses, meats, and packaged items along with a small menu of cafe fare and creative gelatos. I've seen a ton of these places and they don't hold my interest for very long.
Bacaro is an Italian-influenced restaurant that focuses on seasonal, local ingredients. Yes, we've all heard the words "seasonal" and "local" hundreds of times before, but when a chef takes it seriously, I take it seriously in return. It's a good trend in dining and we're all better off for it.
You do not
need to drive two-and-a-half hours south of Chicago to taste seasonal Italian cooking, but you should. Chef Morrow is a man who knows how to choose, highlight, and prepare ingredients with a skill that is rarely found. If this restaurant were in Chicago, they'd be packed to the gills, year-round. Fortunately for us, they were busy, but not full on Saturday night, and we had an excellent meal. A recap:
We started with two items. First, a green tomato frittata with horseradish vinaigrette. While the horseradish didn't come through as strongly as I would have preferred, the frittata was beautifully layered with tomatoes and egg and well-textured. It was like a savory piece of cake with just the slightest sweetness.
Our other starter was a plate that sealed the dinner for me. The rest of the meal could have gone downhill and I would have left happy. The "quattro contorni" is a regular item on the menu but the contents change with ingredient availability (as they should). On this night, they were (pictured below, clockwise from the top-left): marinated button mushrooms with oregano, golden cherry tomatoes with olive oil and Thai basil, purple cauliflower with pine nuts, and watermelon with balsamic vinegar and smoked feta. The watermelon was the highlight for me: a bursting balance of sweetness, acidity, smokiness, and creaminess.
Quattro contorni at Bacaro
We moved onto a pasta course. I chose the
risotto al giorno which was made with beets and beet greens. The bowl of risotto was an almost shocking color (as expected), and delicate sweet flavor with hidden strains of greens:
Beet and beet green risotto at Bacaro
The other plate was
orecchiette with "first fruit" cauliflower, sultanas, anchovy, and bread crumbs. Another success of excellent ingredients, balance, and flavor.
Orecchiette, Bacaro
We had originally intended on ending our meal here, but decided to share a fish course: arctic char with frisse, almond cream, and rhubarb vinaigrette. (Our waiter presented it to us with the question: "What is a pirate's favorite fish?" Answer: "Arrrrctic Charrrrr". All this good food, and jokes too!)
Arctic Char, Bacaro
The fish was pristine and perfectly cooked. Petit pois considered the plate to be slightly under-done (it needed a bean side or some starch), but in hindsight I grew to appreciate Chef Morrow's restraint with his dishes. It is a clear style choice and reflects almost a fanatical devotion to ingredients as the star.
We ended our meal with a silky mascarpone cheesecake with coriander gastrique and strawberries.
Bacaro is something special.
More photos here
Best,
Michael
The Apple Dumplin'
2014 High Cross Rd
Urbana, IL
(217) 344-0076
Flessor's Candy Kitchen
101 West Sale Street
Tuscola, Illinois
(217) 253-3753
http://www.flesorscandy.com/
Persimmon Grocery
111 N Walnut St
Champaign, IL
(217) 355-0896
Bacaro
113 N Walnut St
Champaign, IL
(217) 398-6982