I appreciate all the advice that I received about my trip to Denver and Boulder.
One of the places that I was looking forward to eating at was Pete's Kitchen (Race and East Colfax). Pete's is known as the all-night restaurant in Denver, a great greasy spoon and perhaps the best breakfasts in Denver. However, two days before I arrived Pete's was closed for "remodeling." As one of my Denver friends remarked, they never thought that they would ever hear Pete's and remodeling in the same sentence.
What struck me most strongly about Denver/Boulder was how almost every dish was overcooked in contrast to Chicago (and we cook our food more than in New York) and this was true of both fish and meat.
I did have one excellent meal in Colorado at the Flagstaff House outside of Boulder in the foothills. In Chicago terms the restaurant reminded me of Everest, only in part because of the beautiful view. Like Chef Joho, chef Mark Monette is not afraid of using powerful flavors. The flavors sparkle, even if because of their power, they lack the subtlety of the food at Trotters.
I ordered quail, wrapped in pancetta and grilled with black trumpet mushrooms and white truffle infused polenta. The quail was perfectly cooked and the mushrooms and truffles added a strong woodsy taste.
The main course was Cous Cous Crusted Hawaiian Big Eye Tuna with Hawaiian Big Prawns, Pineapple, Purple Thai Rice, Red Pepper Nage and Baby Bok Choy. I typically shy away from dishes with so many ingredients, but what could have been conflicting flavors really did meld together. The dish was highly marked without straining to incorporate flavors for the sake of mere experimentation. And the tuna was of sushi grade and almost raw.
Although the lengthy wine list seemed overpriced to me, we found a wonderful South African Glen Carlou '98 for $36.
In contrast, some friends and I ate in Denver at Adega, a new well-regarded restaurant and wine bar. The sommelier is Chris Farnum, formerly of MK, and the flight of wines he provided were excellent. The restaurant serves a lot of small dishes, and I had a five course dinner with three glasses of wine for $90, including tax and tip.
However, most of the dishes were overcooked. While I admire the combination of flavors - Chef Moscatello likes to cook with fruit, as do I, the staff cooked the fish to the point where it was very nearly mushy (I had two fish dishes: the skate wing with San Daniele Ham, Grapes and Pasta Pearls was particularly overcooked; the Rouget with Mustard Greens Ravioli, Braised Leeks, and Pink Lemon Juice was pretty close to being cooked to my taste). The Tangerine Braised Beef Cheek had excellent flavor but the meat was cooked the way that ribs are often cooked in Chicago, falling apart. Best was a Pear Bisque with Partridge, chestnut honey, and thyme jelly, but even here the small pieces of partridge were quite well-done.
The apple pudding with a luscious apple custard was wonderful, only marred by some rather (again) overbaked madelaines, but perhaps this is the Denver style.
The other restaurant I want to mention is the Dushanbe Teahouse in Boulder. It is a magical building, transported from Tajikistan. It is inspiring to dine in this marvelous Central Asian teahouse (Boulder and Dushanbe are sister cities and Tajik artisans created the decorative aspects of the building). The architecture is the calling card of the restaurant. However, the menu is far too ambitious if this is to be serious cuisine - dishes from around the world. I ordered Plov, which is a Tajik stew, often with lamb, but this was beef, with rice, onions and currants (I think). Despite its very reasonable price, it was again somewhat overcooked, but I was well-satisfied.
The other meals ranged in quality and price (Tamayo and Sushi Heights in Denver, The Kitchen, Zolo's, and Qs in Boulder). Although I was driven by a few promising looking Mexican restaurants on my way out of Denver near LoDo (Lower Downtown), I found nothing in my travels (I didn't have a car to explore ethnic neighborhoods) that seemed LTH-worthy, although I gather that there are some good Vietnamese restaurants and markets on South Federal Avenue in Denver. East Colfax does indeed have a retro-kick to it.
Well, that is a quick summary of the high points of my visit.