A buddy and I had never been to St Louis, so we decided to take the Amtrak down a couple weeks ago to check out what the city was about. First order of business was Saturday morning breakfast at the 60+ year old Eat Rite diner. This place is about a mile from downtown and the walk was strangely deserted, almost in an eerie way. Turns out downtown STL can be pretty desolate most of the time, and as we were to find out, most of the fun happens in the neighborhoods. However the reception at Eat Rite was the complete opposite: total strangers welcomed us to the counter in a very friendly way and we had a great chat with both cooks and customers. This is the best kind of old school diner that's a treasure to have in your neighborhood.
The St Louis local specialty is called a slinger and it's coney-style chili over eggs, sausage patty and hash browns. Kind of a mess but it tastes great in a non fancy soul satisfying kind of way. I will point out that the hash brown component was superb - crispy crust around a creamy center.
Next up was the Soulard Market. This is one of those permanent semi-outdoor markets which a lot of mid sized cities seem to have (like Findlay in Cincy and Granville in Vancouver), and of which I am pretty jealous as a Chicagoan. I guess we have the French Market but it doesn't feel the same somehow. Soulard has four big pavilions surrounding a central hall with vendors selling affordable produce, prepared foods - and somewhat surprisingly to me, really fresh-looking and smelling Gulf seafood like prawns and red snapper. I guess I shouldn't be surprised because Louisiana is just down the river, but I got a real New Orleans vibe from Soulard. My buddy got some excellent smoked sausage gumbo, and I had a tasty empanada.
Now it's time for the main event which I had been anticipating/dreading for years. Before we commenced the night of boozing at Molly's (which is like a college bar on steroids) we got dinner at the infamous Imo's Pizza. I had been hearing terrible things about St Louis style pizza for years. My buddy who is a fellow LTH-style kindred spirit told me he considered it "literally inedible", because of the weird processed Provel brand cheese they put on it, so I was fully prepared to bail and get second dinner somewhere else. Well to be honest, it wasn't bad at all, it was okay-to-good! Everything on the pizza was excellent - crisp crust, quality toppings - but the cheese was more strange than bad per se. If you imagine mac and cheese sauce on a tavern-style thin pizza, that's what it is like. Not terrible and something I could get in the mood for.
Finally we come to BBQ for Sunday lunch. I think I was operating under an incorrect assumption that St Louis is a great bbq town, probably because of "St Louis Style Spareribs" or some other mental association like that. But most of the locals we talked to seemed to struggle to come up with a great local BBQ joint until a cabbie tipped us off to Sugarfire downtown. It was decent, but no destination spot. The brisket was a little dry and lacked much smoke flavor. I can say the seafood chowder is excellent, which is not a great sign for a BBQ joint but again reinforced the NOLA-STL connection in my mind.
So long St Louis, thanks for some great times and good eats.
Eat Rite Diner
1028, 622 Chouteau Ave, St. Louis, MO 63102
Soulard Market
730 Carroll St, St. Louis, MO 63104
Imo's Pizza
904 S 4th St, St. Louis, MO 63102
SugarFire Smoke House
605 Washington Ave, St. Louis, MO 63101