Racine isn't all Kewpees and kringles. The "Belle City of the Lakes" is home to some notable Frank Lloyd Wright projects, including
Wingspread, the former residence of Herbert F Johnson, of Johnson Wax. The property is now maintained by the Johnson Foundation as a conference center, with tours available when it's not in use. The tour was very worthwhile, with plenty of time to wander around the sprawling house.
Check out the patina on all that wood—doubtless from decades of Johnson Wax products!
With the morning's dose of culture out of the way, it was time for lunch. In the past, mealtime decisions in Racine usually boiled down to a choice between Totero's and Wells Bros, two Italian-American classics a couple blocks apart on Mead Street.
Totero's is now closed forever and
Wells Bros is on their annual summer vacation. But there's another worthy choice on Mead—La Tapatia, a nice little grocery store and taqueria, located two blocks north of the pizzeria.
Nearly every table in the cheerful dining room had a plate of hard shell tacos (4 for $4.59) so we followed suit. The crispy beefs were good, but underseasoned and slightly disappointing. Crispy steak tacos were better, but al pastor was the surprise hit.
Tapatia's al pastor isn't crispy ribbons of meat shaved off a trompo as much as chunks of pork braised in flavorful red grease. Purists be damned, these are tasty tacos. Shells are fried to order in a cast iron skillet and the tacos arrive at the table blisteringly hot.
Our afternoon was spent visiting Wright's masterpieces on the
Johnson Wax campus, including the Research Tower, open to the public for the first time ever. This walkway connects the Tower and Administration Building.
Of course the second tour worked up quite an appetite, so before leaving Johnson we asked where to go for Friday fish fry.
Da Beef wrote:Happy Fish Fryday! All of a sudden I now know of a couple good Friday Night Fry's in the Kenosha/Racine area. Finally made it over to Cliff's Boathouse Cafe in Racine which is known around town for their Fry. It's all in the family over there. A popular place on Friday's with regulars coming in as others leave.
Cliff's was suggested to us by the Johnson Wax people, with the warning it's a dive—the highest possible recommendation. The place is popular but the wait shouldn't be painful—just step inside and order your choice of Rolling Rock or three flavors of Miller and grab a chair on the sidewalk.
Decent plate of perch. Potato pancakes aren't my preferred shredded style but I still enjoyed them (homemade potato salad can be recommended too). What's missing from nice greasy potato pancakes hot from the pan? That's right, butter. Welcome to Wisconsin.
La Tapatia
1951 Mead St
Racine WI
262-633-7816
Cliff's Boathouse Cafe
310 Hamilton St
Racine WI
262-633-1767
http://cliffsboathouse.com/Thu 6am-1pm, Fri 6am-8pm, Sat 7am-1pm, Sun 8am-1pm