Spirit-Free, Zero-Proof CocktailsRecent surgery and short-term medication have made it necessary for me to forego booze for the short-term, but maybe (shudder) for up to six months. The prescribing doctor said (flippantly, I thought) that I could have two drinks a day. However, every online search I did on this med said it’d be best to avoid alcohol altogether, so that’s what I’m doing.
I’m not happy about this. Still, it seems an opportunity to test my discipline, regenerate the liver (maybe takes only 30 days!) and maybe learn about what it takes to make a good cocktail without alcohol.
In the past two weeks, I’ve been ordering spirit-free cocktails at mid-level places like Commons Club and upper-level places like Acadia. I’ve had some good ones and a few mediocre ones.
If I can generalize, I’d say that when they’re not satisfying, it’s because they contain too much sweet fruit juice and not enough…bite. That bite can come from an acid (like vinegar or unsweetened citrus juice) or a bittering agent (like, you know, bitters – not amari, but just a dash of Angostura or something a little more interesting).
We had some pomegranate drinking vinegar sitting in the back of the refrigerator, and I found that to be quite pleasant. I mixed it 1:5, vinegar: water. The acidity gave this drink the solvent qualities of a regular cocktail, with a pleasant though totally not sweet fruitiness. It seemed like I was drinking something, and that it would not be a bad complement for meat or fish.
We have several different bitters in our now dusty liquor cabinet. Lately, I’ve been going much heavier with them than I would in a regular cocktail like the Manhattan, because when it’s just the bitters and bubbly water, the only interesting thing in there is the bitters, so I double-down on that. Bitters and water are more of an aperitif or digestif, though I have had bitters and seltzer with dinner, and it was better than nothing.
I’ve been trying to do better than “better than nothing.”
Seedlip is a spirit-free distillate. It was expensive, like $37 a pop, and I ordered the one called “Garden/108 Herbal” off Amazon. It was, so far, and to be kind, suck-o, much like lightly flavored tap water. My drinking vinegar and bitters pack much more interest than Seedlip for a fraction of the price. Julia Momose uses Seedlip at Kumiko, so I’m open to trying it in combination with other ingredients (so far, I’ve just had it with bubbly water, but it may very well take some other ingredients to make it shine).
Spirit-free cocktails are not a new thing, and places like Alinea have been doing zero-proof pairings, but it’s pretty much new terrain for me.
I’m hoping that, before I’m done, I’ll come up with a few recipes for drinks that satisfy without spirits. It’s a possibility. Isn’t it?.
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins