Sandwiches of Omaha—Reubens, Runzas, Famous Fish & Frenchees

Omaha has a surprisingly robust culinary culture, underappreciated by most outsiders. Eating a few sandwiches isn't a bad way to get a taste of it.

The Reuben may be Omaha's outstanding contribution to the sandwich world. Some moderately convincing evidence suggests it was first served in the 1920s at the Blackstone Hotel. The Blackstone still stands in the Midtown area, a mile or two west of downtown (incidentally, Midtown is the epicenter of a frightful crime wave gripping the city). Toward the lower right of the photo, you can just make out the blue sign of Crescent Moon, where the Reuben tradition is carried on.





Crescent Moon is quite a nice tavern—spacious, friendly, with an excellent tap list and an appealing menu that includes one of Omaha's favorite Reubens.





It's a good sandwich, with excellent thick-cut corned beef and properly griddled bread. For me, the only fault was excessive 1000 island dressing that dominated the sandwich. I wouldn't hesitate to order it again, though asking for less dressing.

I've long been intrigued by the Runza chain, with over 75 locations centered around Lincoln and Omaha. Runza is another name for bierock—a German-Russian meat and cabbage filled yeast roll.





As a cabbage fan, I expected to like it and I did. Not the world's most exciting food, but I enjoyed the Runza's simple peppery flavor. And I'm not the only one.



Famous Fish is a euphemism for carp, widely regarded as a less-than-desirable fish. Joe Tess Place is famous for serving Famous Fish.



In the entryway you're greeted by Guy Fieri, a plump paddlefish and Joe Tess spelled out in Budweiser beer caps. Can you ask for more? No, you cannot.



It's even better inside, with a boat-shaped bar and stuffed fish everywhere. The place smells exactly like a fish house should, instantly transporting me back to the tavern fish fries of my youth.





Carp are so bony they're tricky to eat, thus the clever scoring so the smallest bones more or less cook away (but you still have to pay attention!). Here's a Famous Fish sandwich.



I love the atmosphere at Joe Tess and wish I'd had a few hours to spend sitting at the port side of the bar drinking red beer.

The Cheese Frenchee is a local favorite—a deep-fried cheese sandwich popularized by the now-extinct King's Food Host chain. There are still plenty of places to get a Frenchee, including Don & Millie's (a small local chain) where it's prominently advertised.



For our Frenchee initiation we chose B&G Tasty Foods, a loosemeat specialist now in an nondescript shopping center at the west edge of the city.



It seems Louis and Louise have mated to produce the Bee Gee Frenchee—a deep-fried loosemeat/grilled cheese hybrid. Too rich for my blood. Here's half a regular Frenchee.



In descriptions of the Frenchee, mayonnaise figures prominently (sometimes both inside and outside the sandwich), so I was worried I wouldn't like it. B&G's version turned out to be a surprisingly good grilled cheese sandwich, quite skillfully made, with barely a hint of my least favorite condiment. They also make a dessert Frenchee with Nutella and banana.

Finally, a taco. I realize tacos are not really sandwiches, but this one is not really a taco.

Omaha has a thriving Mexican community, centered around 24th Street in South Omaha, with many authentic taquerias. Instead, we headed north to the Creighton University neighborhood to California Tacos, where not a Mexican was to be seen in the large lunchtime crowd. California Tacos specializes in Midwestern-style puffy tacos.





A round of wheat dough folded around some ground beef is deep fried so the outside gets crackling crisp while the interior remains bready.



It comes dressed with iceberg lettuce and mild shredded cheese. Extra toppings can be added at the condiment station.



I don't believe I've seen salsas on tap before.



Fully dressed and ready to go.



The thing is closer to a loosemeat-on-pita sandwich than to a real taco, but I'd be lying if I said I didn't enjoy it.

Crescent Moon
3578 Farnam St
Omaha NE
http://beercornerusa.com/crescentmoon/

Runza
Multiple locations including:
2952 Farnam St
Omaha NE
https://www.runza.com/

Joe Tess Place
5424 S 24th St
Omaha NE
http://joetessplace.com/

Don & Millie's
Multiple locations including:
4430 Farnam St
Omaha NE
http://donandmillies.com/

B&G Tasty Foods
7900 W Dodge Rd
Omaha NE
http://bgtastyfoods.com/

California Tacos
3235 California St
Omaha NE
http://www.californiatacosandmore.com/

Great stuff, as always. I'm also pleased to learn that Thousand Island dressing is the norm (or at least was when the sandwich was created), which I had always used until people tried (without success) to convince me that Russian dressing is more appropriate.

Nice write up, thanks Rene G!

All that fried food looks really good, and I especially love all sorts of crispy fried tacos. I grew up in the Midwest. In Kansas City there is a good-sized Latino population and some good Mexican food. It's just not (or wasn't) the same style you'd find in a Chicago taqueria. There are many versions of fried tacos to be had. Is that Tex-Mex? I don't remember a lot of chile or queso-type dishes. A lot of different types of tomato-based salsas and fried tacos.

I remember a puffy taco place in Kansas City- they used some sort of corn tortilla, but it was the same concept as the one you tried. It was fried until puffy and somewhat crispy but still a little soft. I think the name of the restaurant might have been 'Puffy Taco' but I'm not sure. Good stuff.

My experiences with bierocks/runzas in Nebraska have been less than noteworthy, though that didn't stop me from writing about them in the Tribune. Art and Chel Jackson at Pleasant House have demonstrated that there's no reason why this can't be a delicious food: http://www.chicagotribune.com/lifestyles/sc-food-0926-bierock-20140926-story.html.

That puffy taco looks quite a bit like what would be called an "Indian taco" (taco filling on fry bread) at pow-wows and around Indian reservations in Montana, New Mexico and other places way out west.

To me, Runza sandwiches taste like Hot Pockets and are something that i would like to avoid. There are just so many better options..

Hi,

The puffy taco was not like an Indian taco, because it wasn't a fried (yeast or baking powder) dough. It reminded me more of a pita, which was baked and later fried or otherwise crisped.

I consider a runza more like a variant of a Russian pieroshki, which is eaten with soup or as an appetizer/snack. Runzas are the size of a dollar bill, while a pieroshki is compact like a small fist.

The Famous Fish has an Illinois kissing-cousin in the Buffalo fish sandwiches sold in bars along the Illinois River and further south in Illinois. The fried arcs of fish were French fry crisp. No tartar sauce is offered, though the separately ordered creamy coleslaw filled the bill.

Almost ordered the Bee Gee Frenchee—a deep-fried loosemeat/grilled cheese hybrid, until the waitress stated, "It is a more hearty and filling Frenchee." Hearty and filling was not desired after a full day of sampling Omaha's riches.

Regards,
CAthy2

BR wrote:I'm also pleased to learn that Thousand Island dressing is the norm (or at least was when the sandwich was created), which I had always used until people tried (without success) to convince me that Russian dressing is more appropriate.

I haven’t looked at much Reuben history, but if you read Jim Rader’s excellent article (linked to in my original post), you won’t find any mention of Thousand Island dressing in Reuben Kulakofsky’s “original” sandwich at the Blackstone Hotel. No Russian dressing either. For whatever it’s worth, I too always thought Thousand Island was the proper dressing for a Reuben. Crescent Moon’s dressing on their Blackstone Reuben is actually quite good, probably containing a bit of horseradish for some zip. My only complaint is the amount they used. I have a feeling that a Reuben survey of Omaha would be a worthwhile undertaking. The city takes its Reubens seriously.

bnowell724 wrote:All that fried food looks really good …

It’s funny, the theme wasn’t obvious to me until you pointed it out. Only the Runza wasn’t fried. I wonder if the company ever considered making deep-fried Runzas. I bet they’d be a big hit.

David Hammond wrote:My experiences with bierocks/runzas in Nebraska have been less than noteworthy, though that didn't stop me from writing about them in the Tribune. Art and Chel Jackson at Pleasant House have demonstrated that there's no reason why this can't be a delicious food: http://www.chicagotribune.com/lifestyles/sc-food-0926-bierock-20140926-story.html.

That puffy taco looks quite a bit like what would be called an "Indian taco" (taco filling on fry bread) at pow-wows and around Indian reservations in Montana, New Mexico and other places way out west.

I prepared for the worst before tasting my first Runza by grabbing a little tub of ketchup in case it was as bland as I feared.



I much preferred the Runza plain and found the ketchup significantly reduced my enjoyment (something about the combination of cabbage and ketchup?). I’m sure I would have enjoyed Art and Chelsea’s version even more (hell, I dream about their bangers and mash). Sauerkraut sounds like a most excellent addition.

California’s puffy taco certainly has similarities to an Indian taco (has anyone looked into the history of these Midwestern puffy tacos?). I thought the puffy taco from Tasty Taco in Des Moines was even more frybread-like (I even used the term in my report from 5 years ago). I’m pretty sure California Tacos deep fries the shell (see below), but when I first tasted it I wondered if it might be baked rather than fried. This pair of photos might show the differences between the two. Tasty Taco’s shell has the somewhat greasy and crispy/leathery (in a good way) texture throughout that I associate with frybread …



… while the shell at California Tacos has a very thin, ultra-crisp outer layer and more tender bread within.



I forgot to mention California Tacos (and many other Mexican restaurants in Omaha) offer a choice of chips—either wheat or corn. I wanted to try an order of wheat chips, but stomach space was at a premium.

jlawrence01 wrote:To me, Runza sandwiches taste like Hot Pockets and are something that i would like to avoid. There are just so many better options..

I never tried a Hot Pocket so can’t speak to the relative merits of Runza versus Pocket. My enthusiasm for the Runza is mostly as a fast food item. They’re definitely doing something different, and I’d take a Runza over most of the stuff sold at the big chains (but I probably like cabbage more than many people). Though I’d happily eat another Runza someday, if I had easy access to the chain I doubt I’d go often at all.

Cathy2 wrote:The puffy taco was not like an Indian taco, because it wasn't a fried (yeast or baking powder) dough. It reminded me more of a pita, which was baked and later fried or otherwise crisped.

I’m fairly confident California Tacos deep fries the meat-filled dough. You can see the procedure in some detail in this “Deep Fried Tacos” clip from Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. There’s no question the texture of California’s shell is unique.

Another great report (with a few good punchlines), Rene G! I suppose I should not be, but I continue to be wowed but the range of local oddities you discover. Also, very interesting to read about the history of my favorite sandwich, the Reuben.

The Frenchee, I think, is a thing sure to be consigned to Omaha for the foreseeable future. But that is based only on the visual. Details, please. How is it that mayo figures in the preparation on both the inside and the outside of the sandwich? Is it dipped in mayo & bread crumbs and then fried ? That is certainly how it appears. If I were just a bit more ambitious, I might try it at home just to see how it goes.

Kudos to you and Cathy2 for your superior commitment!

I had long heard about Omaha's Runzas, and many, many years ago had a chance to try them.

The first one was fantastic, a great blend of the meat & kraut (correct, ketchup not needed), a crusty, soft bun--I inhaled it. Second one was downed almost as quickly, but when I got halfway through the third, I realized I had made a grave error in judgment.

Haven't had one since, even if I had the opportunity. Kind of like overindulging on Canadian Club out of Dad's liquor cabinet when I was 15...

Josephine wrote:The Frenchee, I think, is a thing sure to be consigned to Omaha for the foreseeable future. But that is based only on the visual. Details, please. How is it that mayo figures in the preparation on both the inside and the outside of the sandwich? Is it dipped in mayo & bread crumbs and then fried ? That is certainly how it appears. If I were just a bit more ambitious, I might try it at home just to see how it goes.

A few months ago, I read of people making grilled cheese sandwiches by spreading mayo on the bread's exterior. Prior to this trip, I tried it and found it worked well, especially when it is a non-stick pan.

If I did not have that experience, I might have been a bit dubious on the Frenchee's prep. Think of the mayo like we use mustard to hold dry rub in place in BBQ. It does its job, then fades away into the background. Maybe the next time, I deep fat fry something, I will attempt to make a Frenchee and report back.

Regards,
Cathy2

Cathy 2 wrote:

Maybe the next time, I deep fat fry something, I will attempt to make a Frenchee and report back.

Yes, Please! Pics might help if you have the inclination. I will have to imagine the taste result.
Cheers!

Josephine wrote:The Frenchee, I think, is a thing sure to be consigned to Omaha for the foreseeable future. But that is based only on the visual. Details, please. How is it that mayo figures in the preparation on both the inside and the outside of the sandwich? Is it dipped in mayo & bread crumbs and then fried ? That is certainly how it appears. If I were just a bit more ambitious, I might try it at home just to see how it goes.

B&G’s Frenchee is basically an ultra-crispy grilled cheese sandwich. Those who like grilled cheese would probably like the Frenchee. Mayonnaise wasn’t really noticeable to me. Looking at more Frenchee recipes, almost all call for mayo (or Miracle Whip) inside, but it doesn’t seem very common to use it on the outside, as glue for the cracker or corn flake crumbs. An egg-based batter is generally used. I guess that unusual recipe with mayo both inside and out caught my attention and stuck in my mind. Instead of the mayo-oozing abomination I feared, B&G’s Frenchee was a pleasant surprise.

Pretty much all abominations ooze mayo, don't they?

I didn't grow up making them this way, but I've learned that mayo on the outsides of the bread slices is indeed the way to get a great golden crust on a grilled cheese sandwich without burning and blackening (which is what happens with butter).

I realize mayonnaise is a divisive topic, but I side firmly with my Chilean brethren who embrace Hellman's South American marketing slogan: "Mayo con todo!"

Maybe the Saveur editors have been made aware of LTH-ers' interest in Reuben origin stories. More likely, though, the story emerged out of interest in the topic in NY. Another case of NY vs. "flyover country," with NY, like the Yankees, trying to dominate every field? Perhaps, as suggested in this article, "Who Really Invented the Reuben?" that just arrived in my inbox. According to writer Elizabeth Weil, her grandfather, Bernard Schimmel, was the cook who invented the sandwich for the poker player, Mr. Kulakovsky, whose family claims him as the inventor of the Reuben Sandwich. A 1934 menu has been unearthed to support Omaha's claim, according to Weil.

I take the matter somewhat seriously, (though not, perhaps, as seriously as Andy Smith does), as I imagine my preferred last meal to consist of a Reuben and matzoh ball soup (with half-sour pickles, of course). If that can be this goyishe girl's last menu, then it seems to me that a Reuben with cheese and meat can indeed have been invented by an observant Jew. We all need a little novelty now and then with our comfort food. And poker players need to feel that, win or lose, they are taking a walk on the wild side. What cook would know better than Bernard Schimmel how to meet that need in his clientele?