Geo wrote:Steve,

Might be running on auto-pilot, but--thank God!--Celine and husband haven't taken it on a new course since they bought it a couple years ago...

Geo

With the way real estate in the Canadian economy has been heating up, I suspect the new owners saved it.

Steve Drucker wrote:

Geo wrote:Steve,

Might be running on auto-pilot, but--thank God!--Celine and husband haven't taken it on a new course since they bought it a couple years ago...

Geo

With the way real estate in the Canadian economy has been heating up, I suspect the new owners saved it.

There's Canadian real estate, then there's real estate in Montreal. The two are not the same. Montreal is really suffering economically, even as the rest of Canada is doing well.

The Teranet data showed prices rose in August from the month before in 10 out of 11 cities, led by a 1.8% gain in Winnipeg, a 1.5% gain in Ottawa and a 1.2% rise in Toronto.

Prices were down 0.7% in Montreal.

http://business.financialpost.com/2014/09/12/canada-housing-market-shows-no-sign-of-slowing-as-prices-rise-for-9th-month-teranet/

Cinnamon Girl wrote:Heading to Montreal for four days. Any more recent suggestions? We are staying in an area that seems to be known as the Golden Square Mile. Is that along that lines of the Magnificent Mile here? Meaning bring lots of $$?

How was your trip? Anything to report?

My husband and I are headed here in July to celebrate our 20th anniversary. Any recent experiences/suggestions appreciated. We are staying in Old Montreal and will not have a car. We are not looking for high-end recs for this trip. Love all cuisines and especially spicy food.

Thanks in advance. Will report back.

LynnB--

The best show in Montréal remains Marché Jean-Talon, the Jean-Talon farmers' market. It's about a block in size under roof, surrounded by all sorts of local shops, cheese, sausage, bread, fruit, veg, etc. Go on Saturday and expect to spend your entire day there, enthralled. Probably the best public market in North America, certainly orders of magnitude better than Seattle's.

It can be reached easily on the métro.

Have a great time!

Geo

No need for a car in Montreal at all ... the International Fireworks Festival begins July 1st and one of my most wonderful evenings ever was spent with what seemed to be the whole population of Montreal gathered on the piers in Old Montreal watching the fireworks competition ... truly a joyous time ... very comfortable to stroll around, eat street food, etc. We went once over to the official site at Six Flags but that was no where near as fun watching from the docks!

I also always go to Pain D'or for baguettes on Peel St (and usually fly some of their bread home with me since it's so good).

Check the Montreal tourism site to see what festivals are on since there are lots - Dragon Boats at the Olympic rowing site, African Music and food in a park downtown, etc ...

Jealous of your trip ... have to make some plans myself!

David Hammond wrote:We were speechless with disappointment after a recent visit to Schwartz's. And I'm not blaming new owner Celine Dion. Maybe we just got it on a bad night.

an acquaintance who gets to Montreal has suggested we go to Lester's Deli http://www.lestersdeli.com/ instead of Schwartz's (which is where we have been on past trips)

David Hammond wrote:Biking around Montreal last month, we stopped at St. Viateur-Bagel [http://www.stviateurbagel.com/]....

I'm bringing back a few dozen for fans here in Chicago.

Geo wrote:
The best show in Montréal remains Marché Jean-Talon, the Jean-Talon farmers' market. It's about a block in size under roof, surrounded by all sorts of local shops, cheese, sausage, bread, fruit, veg, etc. Go on Saturday and expect to spend your entire day there, enthralled.

have never been, can't wait to go at end of this month.

Tried to get reservations at Joe Beef & Liverpool House, none to be had, bummer. http://joebeef.ca/
-

Willie,

Sorry you couldn't get rez at Joe Beef/Liverpool House. But there's a venerable Jewish steak house that is highly praised, and totally Montréal--Moishes'--which you might enjoy visiting. Superb, quirky, excellent version of what it is.

And you'll *love* Jean Talon market--Saturday is a wonderful circus; Sunday morning is super as well.
Enjoy!

Geo

Thanks Geo.

What are Montreal Steamies?

A 'steamie' is Montréal's version of a cheap hot dog, steamed until limp and tasteless, put in a cheap bun, with yellow mustard and chopped onions. Not my fave. But that's just my opinion. YMMV.

Geo

Geo wrote: Not my fave. But that's just my opinion. YMMV.

A friend suggested that we hit Montreal Pool Room after a night of drinking, I'm guessing steamies are good drunk food.

She also suggested hitting the brewpub Dieu du Ciel http://www.dieuduciel.com/en/home.php

Looking at Bloody Ceasars one morning, read about La Champagnerie, cocktail of the month sounds good as well: http://www.lachampagnerie.ca/en/le-cock ... nerie-4-2/

-

Willie,

We were there in late July and our concierge was able to get us into Liverpool House on 1 day's notice. We were sat outside at a communal table and had a great time. Couldn't hurt to give it a shot when you get there - it's worth it. Have a great trip!

Willie,
I think the locals prefer poutine to steamies as late-night booze sponges!

Geo

I need a little help for an upcoming trip to Montreal. Everything is planned but we only have time/stomach space to two brunch/lunches (lunch fare at brunch time). Problem is we have three places to choose from: L'Express, Maison Publique, and Lawrence. Our dinners will be at Joe Beef and Au Pied du Cochon, so part of me thinks we should skip L'Express since we're getting more than our fill of Quebecois fare. But L'Express is legendary and, since this is my first trip to Montreal, part of me thinks it shouldn't be missed.

Thoughts on any of the three brunch/lunch options?

I'd do L'Express. Joe Beef just isn't all that Québeçois, certainly not in the way that APdC is. And L'Express is just good food.

Of course you'll be checking out Marché Jean-Talon?

Geo

Thanks! How to choose between Maison Publique and Lawrence? They both look great. Lawrence opens half an hour earlier so I'm inclined to give it the nod.

Definitely going to Jean Talon. Was also planning on a quick stop (hour or so) at Atwater on the way to the airport. Worth it?

I basically live next door to Atwater. It's the 'Anglo' market. It has beaucoup high-end meat markets in an upper hallway, and a few veg stalls around the outside of the east side of the bldg. A Premiere Moison bakery shoppe, and that's about it. I go there because it's half an hour to Jean-Talon (which was in my backyard at our last place... ) and it *is* an actual market. But after you've spent some serious time at J-T, there's no need to go to Atwater. Now the walk along the Canal Lichine is very pleasant, if you have some time. Plus there's a brewery pub on the North side of the canal that is lots of fun. Probably the best high-end patisserie in town is Mama Clafoutis, one of which (there are others) is across the street and down a couple doors from Joe Beef. Great place for morning coffee.

Where are you staying?

Geo

I should have started my planning here!

Staying at an Airbnb about half a block from La Banquise. Current plan, which is likely to change since I'll probably drop Atwater, includes stops at:

Friday: Schwartz's, Hof Kelsten, Le Vin Papillon or another bar nearby, Joe Beef, Dieu du Ciel, La Banquise

Saturday: Patisserie Rhubarbe, Lawrence or Boucherie Lawrence, St. Viateur and Fairmount, Jean-Talon Market, Au Pied de Cochon, Le Lab

Sunday: Patisserie Au Kouign Amann, Restaurant L'Express, Atwater Market, Rustique Pie Kitchen (will drop the pie if dropping Atwater)

Which pastry shop should I drop for Mama Clafoutis?

Thanks so much for the help!

I'd be tempted to drop Patisserie Au Kouign Amann in favour of Mama Clafoutis--but I think that the one on Van Horne is the most congenial. Be sure you try the matzoh from both the bagelrys: they're different, but both good.

Geo

Montreal trip was a while ago but I was absolutely blown away and remember it vividly. Some of our stops have already been covered here by others, so I'll just briefly say that Joe Beef blew the four of us away, Schwartz's lived up to the hype (choose the fatty beef), and Marche Jean-Talon is an absolute treat. Also really enjoyed Au Pied de Cochon, and would certainly go back, but it was the one place in Montreal where not knowing any French at all was a small hindrance, so go prepared.

I'll talk a little more about two stops that I don't think have been mentioned here that I consider absolute must-visits in Montreal


Hof Kelsten, founded by a culinary school grad who's worked at places like elBulli, is simply the best pastry shop I've been to. Started as a wholesale bread business that took orders from some of Montreal's best restaurants, the place now sells bread, sandwiches, and, most importantly, pastries to masses.

I was in Montreal from a Friday to a Sunday. Hof Kelsten was close to our AirBNB so it was actually our first stop. I'd read about the greatness of the babka and, despite not being particularly enamored with babka generally, was curious enough to check it out. Unfortunately, it turned out that slices of babka are not available on weekdays. Uninterested in a whole babka, we turned our attention to some other pastries.


The croissants (chocolate is pictured) were magnificent, as was the strawberry rugelach. The cinnamon roll, a delicate creation that was a far cry from the doughy ones we eat in the US, was also great. So while we were disappointed to miss the babka, we figured we actually lucked out by getting even better treats.

On Sunday morning, one traveling companion and I woke up earlier than expected. We didn't want to wake the others, so we decided we might as well go try the babka. We got to Hof Kelsten only to find out that the babkas were close to being ready but weren't out of the oven yet. No big deal as it gave us an excuse to try a couple other pastries instead, including a spectacular chocolate Danish which, like the cinnamon roll, was a vastly different creation than what we're used to.


On our third attempt to order the babka, we learned they were done, but still too warm to cut. Desperate, I asked how much a whole babka costs and had to stifle a laugh when she said $14 (which, thanks to a glorious exchange rate at the time, meant $10 USD). Got the babka, took it back to the AirBNB, spent 6 hours out and about, took the babka to the airport, flew home, ate dinner, and then had the pleasure of diving into one of the best pastries I've ever eaten. If Zingerman's or Zabar's sold this thing for $50, you wouldn't bat an eye at the price tag. At $10 (or whatever the exchange rate is for loonies these days), it's a massive bargain.


I loved everything about Lawrence Restaurant. First, a little background. The owners of Lawrence Restaurant also own Boucherie Lawrence, a butcher shop a few doors down. The butcher shop is fantastic. They butcher whole animals from small farmers and sell raw meat and charcuterie. They also sell eggs and various dairy products, all of which appeared to be high quality, along with a well curated selection of packaged edibles, most of which are from local producers.


Most people buying meat at butcher shops opt for the well known cuts of meat. So what's a whole animal butcher shop to do? That's where Lawrence Restaurant comes in, taking kidneys, livers, hearts, feet, blood, etc. and turning them into delicious entrees.

Boulangerie Hof Kelsten
4524 St. Laurent Blvd.
514-649-7991
hofkelsten.com

Lawrence Restaurant
5201 Blvd. St. Laurent
514.503.1070
lawrencerestaurant.com