Cochinillo de Segovia - Roast Suckling Pig in Spain

Found this in the draft archives. The trip was taken almost exactly a year ago but I'm confident nothing has changed. While on a vacation in Spain in we decided to do a daytrip out of Madrid to one of the little towns you can easily access from the train station. After some online wandering it became a no-brainer as to where we go. Segovia is about a 45 minute train ride from Chamartin Station and is famed for its deep history which includes some amazing structures still standing today as well as a famous pig dish served all over town.


The Still-Standing Roman Aqueduct of Segovia (Said to be built around 50 AD)

Next stop up, the Alzacar Castle is said to be what inspired Walt Disney to make 'Beauty & the Beast'. The palace was first documented in 1122 and has quite a rich history which visitors are allowed to experience. You can purchase one of those phones you hold up to your ear that will give you the entire castles history. It's got quite a rich background and plenty of old artifacts to look at. I'm pretty sure this was my favorite monument and or museum we visited on this trip. Some of the stuff inside is replicated but the building itself and many other artifacts inside are not. I'll share pics but it's really something you need to experience for yourself to fully appreciate.









After an hour or so of exploring the castle we headed over to the magnificent Segovia Cathedral which is another one of the towns three old time treasures. This massive monument was said to was built between 1525-1577 in a late Gothic style. You're allowed to see most of it and if you're there at the right time you can even take part in a Mass at one of the many chapels inside. I'll take a raincheck on that but much like the castle the church was a sight to behold.





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Alright enough sightseeing, you know the reason we visited Segovia wasn't for seeing the structures. The town is also the home to Cochinillo Asado aka Wood Roasted Suckling Pig. The purpose of our visit was to eat one these babies. The town takes them so seriously that almost every sit-down restaurant serves it while there's many homages to the piglets around town. You can find the "certified" spots by looking for a common plaque found outside at all the famous places. You want an authorized spot because these are the restaurants standing by the strict rules of what makes Cochinillo de Segovia.


Restaurant advertising the sale of the towns pride and joy

Translated from Wikipedia - "The animals are raised in special farms devoted entirely to the production of pig protected. The characteristics comprising the food and that makes it distinct from other similar dishes Leon Castilian or are feeding mothers, their weight, which ranges between 4.5 kg and 6.5 kg, and age , which must not exceed three weeks. Only animals are sold whole, its color is white outside and pink inside, and must always be marked in one ear with their respective blue label and the other with Brand Guarantee."


Window in a Storefront

Choosing a spot to eat the pig can be tough for those of us viewing online. I'd read up on many of them but the one that was most consistent in reviews was the place I would end up asking our hotel concierge to make us a reservation for. Booking a time in advance is crucial for anyone looking to get the maximum experience. The pigs take three hours to cook and your reservation will guarantee you're getting fresh cooked flesh and not some leftovers from last night. Segovia isn't an under the radar place so if it's the travel season you're going to be visiting with plenty of other tourists.


Restaurante José María

We got here a little bit before our scheduled time and enjoyed some drinks and snacks up front in the bar area which is where they'll send you while your table is being made. Cerveza for me and Vino De la Casa Roja for her with some fresh fried suckling pig pork cracklins on the house to go with them. Upon my first bite of the still warm rinds I knew it was on.


Cracklins

Jose Maria was a white tablecloth restaurant with three dining rooms and some 1st rate service but it was only lunchtime on our visit so the place wasn't fully packed. As you're supposed to do when making a reservation, tell them you'll be getting X amount of orders of the famous cochinillo asado. One pig feeds six people. Although there's no reason four hungry folks couldn't finish one. There are no sides served with it so a salad or something is recommended beforehand. Some people may find the $25/Euro pricetag a tad too much but I doubt there's many who think the same way after eating a plate of it. When the pig is ready there's a little presentation upon it's arrival at the table.


Finding Wilbur

When they bring the portable slicing table to you they'll pause for a moment and let you get some pictures as they know it's the reason you came into town, whether you want to admit it or not. The baby pig is so tender that they slice the portions with a plate.


Displaying the tenderness

As they cut it you'll hear a loud crack and thats the skin which is without a doubt the best piece of crispy anything I've ever had. It comes served alongside a cup of au jus that can rival any of the best tonkotsu broths in Japan when it comes to richness. I never did get a chance to ask what happens with the cheek meat but I'm guessing the staff eats it. The pig is seasoned with salt and has that great pure pork taste. We each got a back leg and there was even a hair or two still sticking out which I nonchalantly plucked as I kept on eating. This was indeed one of the best meals we'd have on a trip that featured many. If you're looking for a fun daytrip from Madrid with some rich food and history involved than Segovia is your spot.


Cochinillo de Segovia

Restaurante José María
Calle Cronista Lecea, 11, 40001
Segovia, Spain
+34 921 46 11 11

Cracklins of breath-taking beauty.

I remember it fondly. Next time consider a trip to Sepulveda for the baby lamb.

I was in Segovia last month. Having eaten cochinillo at Botín in Madrid the day before we passed on José María and instead went to Restaurante San Marcos. Located below the Alcázar, it is famed for its seafood. Despite being landlocked, segovianos take great pleasure in amazingly fresh seafood, just like the madrileños. We ate outside on a beautiful day and enjoyed an outstanding meal. First course consisted of razor clams (navajas), langostinas, cockles (berberechos) and gambas. The razor clams were instantly the best shellfish I've ever eaten. The cockles tasted more like the sea than anything I've ever had. For the second course we had fish: conger eel, swordfish, and hake. All three were simply fried with garlic. The hake (merluza) was my favorite but all three were excellent. Finally we were given our final course: deep fried hunks of pig (cuchifrito) and an amazing rib eye steak that was so perfectly medium rare and full of flavor that we continued to eat well past the point of full. I will eventually post more about my most recent trip to Spain (#11!), but since Segovia showed up this comes first.

WOW thanks for this post Da Beef. Other than food, one of my chief interests is medieval arms and architecture so your pictures were great for me. Segovia is going to the top of my travel wish list.

Just made my reservation, thank you Da Beef. LTH is the best!

It amused me that you made the comment that you felt confident things hadn't changed from a year ago -- though I feel fairly certain the comment was meant to be humorous -- because I was there nearly 50 years ago, and it hasn't changed -- except they've added the red rope in front of the thrones at the Alcazar. But otherwise, right down to cutting the pig with the plate, it is identical to what I saw and experienced back in as a teen visiting with my parents. A truly memorable experience. Fun to learn that it is one of things that the world has not left behind.