On a miserable, cold, snowy night last February I was due to meet my cousin at a new restaurant opened by a friend of theirs, a chef she an her then fiancé (now husband) adored, Chef Alfredo Noguiera. Her fiancé, a born and bread New Orleans boy, had started enjoying Fredo's cooking at the Flipside in Humbolt Park where he cooked his NOLA dishes during the winter when the Italian ice business was shut down.
I was coming from West Rogers park just as an evening snowstorm hit and it took me almost 90 minutes to get to Logan Square, I was not in a good mood when I arrived. My cousin was also the only customer due to the weather, but I quickly warmed up with a house manhattan and settled into enjoy Fredo's first set menu dinner. I don't remember my first course, but I noticed the main was turducken, a dish I'd never been that fond of and I sighed inwardly hoping everything else would be good. Turns out what I didn't like was every bad version of this dish I'd had before, this version was a revelation. Moist, each bird cooked perfectly, but with it's own flavor subtly merging to make a glorious dish. I didn't take notes and I know the rest of the meal was equally as good, but its that memory of my first good bite of turducken the stands out for me.
Fredo came out to talk to us as he knew my cousin and we were still only one of three tables at this point. We had a nice discussion of food and homemade bitters, which are used to make their purls (bitters and beer). I drove home thinking I'd just had on of the best meals of the year and it was only February.
Turns out I've had many more amazing meals there this year. My lovely cousin and her fiancé had their rehearsal dinner there in August. I'm still thinking about that bounty, but her father who hate grits still tells us how much he loved the mashed potatoes he had and refuses to believe that what he enjoyed so much were grits (they were grits). I've gone for their fried chicken Tuesdays so often at this point that I know the regulars, in fact I believe I'm one at this point.
The food continues to satisfy on a deep level, the smoked fish dip is my favorite starter and has been praised by
ronnie_suburban The Smoked Fish Dip really hit the spot. I loved the pronounced smokiness and overall flavor of the dip. Keeping simple by serving it with saltines and hot sauce was sensible and clever in its own way.
The scotch egg is one of the best versions around as
BR will attest to
The Scott, Louisiana egg was another stunner to me. Yes, the exterior was nice and crisp. Yes, the boudin (house-made by the way) was terrific. But then the perfectly cooked egg, the mustard and just the combination of flavors left me speechless. This might have been the best scotch egg I've tried.
The dirty rice however, might be actually life altering. I came in on a Tuesday fried chicken night to find
Da Beef seated at the bar, from his online postings I thought he was still in Spain, but he said no, he's just arrived back home and stopped in for some dirty rice to go as he's been craving it
Dirty rice was undoubtedly great and indeed dirty, meaning made with chopped livers and giblets and I believe some pork sausage is in there as well. So good I got an order to go.
Thats the power of Analogue's dirty rice and I haven't event discussed that they have the best fried chicken in Chicago. The crunchy coating hides dark meat that hasn't been over brined, a huge complaint of mine there days, the biscuit is both substantial and light at the same time. I could go on, but stop by and try it for yourself.
I haven't mentioned the bar program run by two Violet Hour veterans.
jordanhojo says
Loved our cocktails, and the fact that even though they're making top notch drinks, they make them without flair or pretense.
I feel comfortable just sitting by myself at the bar, having a drink and an appetizer and watching the energy of this place. It deserves
GNR status, it's truely what a great neighborhood place should be.
For what we choose is what we are. He should not miss this second opportunity to re-create himself with food. Jim Crace "The Devil's Larder"