My wife and I were in Charleston in Jan '03, great food.
Jestine's Kitchen is a chowish place, supposed to be the best fried chicken in town. It was closed when we were there, but we walked by and it looked like the kind of place where they knew how to fry up a chicken if you know what I mean. It's in the main part of town so no complex logistics involved in getting there.
We had lunch at Magnolia Restaurant and S.N.O.B., both were outstanding. Low country food in a white tablecloth setting, prices at lunch were really reasonable considering the high quality - think both came to less than $50 for two with drinks, apps & entree. Not exactly cheap & chowish, but I though it was a great value.
At Magnolia I had a nice healthy salad of fresh local greens with deep-fried cornmeal crusted oysters sprinkled with bacon. Followed by pulled pork in a mustardy SC bbq sauce, with a side of collard greens and cole slaw. Damn, UM UM
My wife had some excellent fried chicken with mashed potatoes and gravy, which was also outstanding.
If you're going to eat shrimp & grits you gotta try S.N.O.B. I'd never been a fan of grits, but figured when in Rome etc. I was converted after this meal - stone ground coarse grits, artisan cheddar, super-fresh shrimps and a sprinkle of fresh green onions. First bite was a revelation, better than any polenta dish I've ever had. Had grits at a couple other supposedly down home breakfast places, no comparison. Everything else was really good here too, excellent produce and fresh fish.
Enjoy, you're gonna love the food in this city. Kind of like New Orleans, it's pretty hard to go wrong - although we were a little disappointed with Peninsula Grill, good but overpriced.