NEW Places in St. Louis

Looking over the St. Louis thread, I feel like St. Louis is looking a little dusty from what is posted there. (Also, the thread is getting unwieldy at 7 pages.) Most LTH-ers remember when Chicago had a steak-house-only reputation to live down. St. Louis may be suffering from a toasted-ravioli-and-Provel-topped-pizza reputation that is long since outdated. While the food scene here was apparently rather sleepy ten years ago, there is a lot going on in the past few years. The best chefs are garnering well-deserved attention, and the dining public is getting back into the city to eat their food.

There is so much going on in the dining scene that it is hard to keep up with it. Fortunately, the food press, led by Sauce Magazine and FEAST – our free food rags – keep me posted, and my chow-dar still works pretty well. When it's on the fritz, Gut Check from the Riverfront Times can fill me in. St. Louis Magazine seems to have a stable of writers, and I can credit them with giving cover honors to my favorite purveyor of barbacoa, buche, and lengua, Taqueria Durango.

This thread covers RECENT (Edit: 2013-2016) openings, and ignores many of the more established restaurants that emerged during the last decade. I think this list gives a lot of support to the idea that St. Louis has a dynamic food scene.

Moderate-Upscale Options:

Pastaria by Niche – from Gerard Craft of Niche/Taste/Brasserie by Niche. This Clayton restaurant is bustling, acclaimed, and the result of research trips to Italy by Chef Craft and staff. They continue their investigation and experimentation with “R&D” nights at Niche on Mondays. A $45 prix fixe seems like a good deal to me for this quality from our top chef. I’m chomping at the bit to get there, but with a no-reservations policy, it’s been a tough sell for the occasions that might have taken me there.
Edit: I did get to both Pastaria and Niche. I'm suspicious that the pizza at Pastaria included Provel. However, the salad and pasta were lovely. Niche's Monday night menu is a nice way to enjoy dinner out without the crush of Saturday night and still feel treated.

Table - from Chef Cassy Vires of Home Wine Kitchen. A more casual spot than Home,] according to email press sent from Chef Vires, Table is a communal table spot in friendly (some say hipster haven) Benton Park. They are doing a whole hog August 17th at $25/pp. I can’t wait to try this place.
Edit: Well, I didn't get there. But I did get to Cassy Vires' Home Wine Kitchen for a great meal and a stellar wine chosen by her husband/sommelier. Regrettably, HWK has also closed. Chef Vires has moved on to Juniper, a Southern-inspired spot. They are open Mondays.

Olio/Elaia – Chef Ben Poremba’s new duo: a casual cool spot and a fine dining restaurant in a converted gas station in “Botanical Heights” – east of the Botanical Garden a short distance from Sweetie Pies on a street with many recently rehabbed brick homes. A great one-two punch would be very early dinner on their terrace and dessert from Chouquette, the amazing new patisserie from former Ritz Carlton pastry chef, New Orleans transplant Simone Faure. I loved Olio both times I was there.
Edit: I've been to Olio a dozen times. I guess it is my favorite spot now. Really casual fine dining if you ask me. And the service to match. Just wow. And see down thread for more info on Poremba's other spots, Old Standard Fried Chicken and the chic Clayton spot on Shaw Park, Parigi. Olio and Patisserie Choquette have become the anchors of a neighborhood revival in Botanical Heights. Thank you Chef Poremba!

Little Country Gentleman – also in Clayton, is from chef/owner Michael Randolph, a Moto alum). Emphasis on Midwest seasonal food with 2 tasting menus: the three course at $42 and the Grand Tasting at $78. I have not been there.
Edit: Little Country Gentleman has closed. However, the adjoining Half and Half remains for breakfasts with panache. They have a new breakfast menu that features a lemon curd-topped French toast. See the Riverfront Times coverage here. I see more breakfast in my future. Also, Chef Randolph has opened Publico, a Mexican spot we loved that is covered down thread.

The Libertine - Chef Josh Galliano is a New Orleans expat (Commander's, Brennan's) and Boulud alum who formerly at the helm of Monarch in St. Louis. His brand new “neighborhood” restaurant, also in Clayton. Looks like some comfort food done well with a Southern sensibility as well as vegetarian and pescatarian options. Standouts on the menu are for me, oil poached fish, she-crab soup, terrine board, duck egg, burger, pig tails and grits. Cocktails appear to be emphasized, as well as craft beers (now de rigueur in this beer town). The wine list appears affordable. I have not been there.
Edit: I did eat at the Libertine eventually, and will fondly recall the crispy fried chick peas as one of the most surprising and delicious things I've eaten. Chef Galliano has moved on to local Companion Bread from The Libertine in late 2015. With him went the Southern-style menu. New Chef Matt Bessler's new menu leans Mediterranean. But there still may be a touch of the South in there - I will have to report on his peaches and cream beignets.

The Cheshire – two restaurants, The Restaurant at the Cheshire and Basso for those times when you might need a restaurant in your hotel – or because they appear cozy and promising, based on recent reviews.
Edit: More revision here. Boundary has replaced The Restaurant at the Cheshire with a seafood-heavy menu ranging from poke to poutine. Fans of Baetje Farms cheese will find it there as well.

Pretty place for a drink and a small plate: Bar les Freres Zoe Robinson’s gorgeous red-walled new French themed small plates and cocktails spot across from her consistently excellent Italian bistro, I Fratellini in Clayton. (She also owns pan-Asian Bobo Noodle house near Wash U.) I have not been.
Edit: Still going strong.

Central Table Food Hall This ambitious renovation of a cavernous space should make life a lot easier for everyone who works at the Barnes Jewish Hospital complex, and all those people who live or shop in the Central West End. I stopped in there for lunch the first week they were open, but not fully operative. I made do with a pre-packaged salad from the little market space, but I'd like to return to sample their sushi, pizza and raw bar. I believe they brought a chef in from Brooklyn to set the tone, and it sounds as though he's added some adventurous menu items: Popcorn panna cotta anyone? We'll see.

Indian: Bombay Food Junkies: A food truck from Bombay natives Krupa and Sid Panchal serving Indian vegetarian specialties as well as British and Chinese-influenced Indian food. Now that’s interesting! They tweet their locations, and serve the County as well as the city. I'm hoping to catch them either on a trip to Costco in Town and Country, or on one of the Missouri History Museum's or Tower Grover Park's food truck nights.

Pan-Asian: Stylish and festive and downtown, Hiro Asian Kitchen looks promising – or not. I’m not sure where I come out on the pan-Asian idea. Often, one cuisine is done well and the others are neglected. However, there are not a ton of exciting options right downtown, IMHO. So I am ready to be surprised. No information found on their chef.

Northern Thai: Fork & Stix - So far, the only place in St. Louis that serves Northern Thai specialties, these from Chef Phatcharin Wanna. Having moved from Lincoln Square, this is most welcome. I enjoyed a sai oua lemongrass sausage that was somewhat similar to Isaan sausage (no fermented rice) and a curry dish. This place is BYOB, and the prices are low. I imagine this approach, as well as the limited menu, will allow them to succeed in the student market here near Wash U. Fork and Stix continues to fill my yearning for Thai food reminiscent of what I ate in Chicago.

Mexican: Mission Taco on Delmar. I tend to prefer the little family run taco spots, but since the Delmar Loop is such a central location, I’m hoping that these tacos hold up. This is from Chef/Owner Jason Tilford, who is also behind Milagro Modern Mexican and Tortilleria. I wasn’t wowed by Milagro, (but in Webster Groves it’s a good option and is dog-friendly on the terrace) but I’m going to check out Mission Taco. It’s also nice that one can go veggie there, in spite of a tofu taco sounding somehow just wrong.

Pizza: Empire Pizza and Deli on Washington downtown. This is the new business that promises New York style foldable pizza by the slice. It is owned by Dave and Michael Rook the brothers of Annie Gunn’s acclaimed chef, Lou Rook. I don't get downtown to Washington Avenue often, but I'd go there for a NY Slice in a heartbeat.

BBQ: Sugarfire Smokehouse. Chef Mike Johnson seems like a modest guy and that bodes well for his BBQ, I think. Also, they have “the same smoker as Pappy’s.” Their Olivette location makes BBQ an easy takeout option for me, but they also do dine in, in a comfortable setting that has a liquor license. Three occasions have been variable in some aspects, however, the pulled pork was consistent, and the brisket outstanding on one visit. Sides are decent, too.
Edit: Sugarfire recently opened a branch downtown, near the new National Blues Museum on Washington.

The Sweet Stuff: Highbrow & Lowbrow

Chouquette: Awesome in every way, this patisserie & salon de the would not be out of place in Paris. Simone Faure is the former pastry chef at the Ritz Carlton St. Louis. This has to be the place for a wedding cake, but I tried the croissants and the choux du jour – a choux puff filled with a chocolate cream. The room is absolutely gorgeous. I could see it as the perfect spot for a bridal shower or baby shower. Also, it is across from Olio, making it a great one-two punch for dinner before a visit to the Botanical Gardens. Prices are St. Louis style: reasonable!

Piccione Pastry: Italian pastry, gelato and coffee on Delmar, a Nix family enterprise, inspired by Nonna Piccione. This pristine new spot is near the Wash U campus and is open late. I will become a regular customer for their sfogliatelle. I no longer need to dream of NY. Gluten-free cannoli are available, too. I'll report back on this place soon.

Strange Donuts: St. Louis’ answer to Voodoo, from a couple of young entrepreneurs who funded from Kickstarter, something you can do here in oh-so-affordable St. Louis (Bombay Food Junkies outfitted their truck this way). Just opened, they are looking to do some wild flavors. They have a lot of competition in this donut-adoring city, but I wish them well.

Vegetarian: The Tree House on South Grand, looks like a vegetarian restaurant that I would enjoy, even though I am an omnivore. Bring on the red curry deviled eggs, pictured in Sauce Magazine’s July issue. Likely I will try this place soon with a vegetarian friend.
Edit: Still going strong in 2016.

Now, cavalry of LTH-ers: you have the list. If any of this appeals, do your stuff. But DO NOT MISS World's Fair Donut, Sump Coffee, or Salume Beddu, one old and two young gems.

I found Olio to be truly fantastic. First restaurant I've been to in STL that I felt would easily compete in Chicago. It's the kind of casual wine bar with excellent small plates we all wish were right around the corner from our place.

Pastaria - planning a visit next weekend and very excited.

Little Country Gentleman - college buddy left Elaia for LCG. Looking forward to trying it very much. The dishes he has posted to social media look unique, exciting and interesting.

jfibro wrote:I found Olio to be truly fantastic. First restaurant I've been to in STL that I felt would easily compete in Chicago. It's the kind of casual wine bar with excellent small plates we all wish were right around the corner from our place.

Agreed. Had a carrot soup pureed amazingly smoothly and a perfectly seasoned pork tenderloin tonnato for lunch one day, which was beautiful.


Carrot Soup by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Pork Tonnato by Josephine2004, on Flickr

On my first visit, Ben Poremba was there with his family - he couldn't be more charming. My friend and I had some vegetarian selections, including an inspiring carrot salad that incorporated a flavor- perhaps an herb or a pickle - I could not identify. Also, the best version of celeri root remoulade this side of the Atlantic.


Carrottes Rapees by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Celeri Remoulade by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I enjoyed the open garage door on a cool day, but I'm wondering what they do on the scorching ones. That said, I think it's a great thing for this up and coming neighborhood to have a place that invites people in. Parking in front is convenient, however, there are only a few spaces, so it may be necessary to park down the street.


Olio Interior by Josephine2004, on Flickr

One more thing: they told me they were going to do picnic baskets for the Wednesday night Jazz at MOBOT.

jfibro wrote:Pastaria - planning a visit next weekend and very excited.

Please post about your visit.

jfibro wrote:Little Country Gentleman - college buddy left Elaia for LCG. Looking forward to trying it very much. The dishes he has posted to social media look unique, exciting and interesting.

Unique - yes. What other restaurant offers a taste of the staff meal for late night diners? Great idea!

This past weekend, I had a chance to sample some of the new places listed above. I came away with both pleasant surprises and some disappointments.

First, the good news:

The Tree House, a new vegetarian restaurant, could be added to the category, "St. Louis Restaurants I Wish Chicago Had." I'm a fan of Green Zebra, but, aside from their prix-fixe dinners, Green Zebra is a special occasion place for me. I also enjoy Senza, but the same thing holds true. I am not against Blind Faith on principle, but I always end up feeling the flavors are cobbled together over an underlay of 1970's hippie cooking. Not so with the moderately priced, "business casual" Tree House on South Grand Ave., in the same neighborhood as Pho Grand and other popular Asian and Middle Eastern eateries. We sampled the following:


Bahn Mi at the Tree House by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Red Curry Deviled Eggs by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Johnnycake with Black Beans by Josephine2004, on Flickr


Fried Green Tomatoes by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Banh Mi featured a true vegan mushroom pate that was flavorful. The server told us that they had had complaints about a mushroom pate that included cheese from vegan customers and that they had responded by adding a vegan option. The panko crusted fried green tomatoes were perfectly crunchy, and the tomatoes were not mushy. The red curry deviled eggs were outstanding, pointing up the sophisticated conceptualization of the menu. Also excellent were the johnnycakes, with their black bean underlay and crunchy pickled vegetables. Careful cooking from a pristine kitchen. I'd go back there in a (healthier) heartbeat.

It was clear that the Tree House take their cocktails seriously, though we did not partake at lunchtime. We spoke with Billy, the beverage manager, who discussed the cocktail development process. A variety of local craft brews, wines, and a GF beer from Spain are also available.

Atmosphere was modern, spare yet comfortable and staff was professional and welcoming. We got away stuffed to the gills for $45 including gratuity. Great entry into the St. Louis dining scene.

I'll post more later on Pastaria, Sugarfire Smokehouse, 5-star Burger Bar.

Josephine wrote:
BBQ: Sugarfire Smokehouse. Chef Mike Johnson seems like a modest guy and that bodes well for his BBQ, I think. Also, they have “the same smoker as Pappy’s.” Their Olivette location makes BBQ an easy takeout option for me, but they also do dine in, in a comfortable setting that has a liquor license. Three occasions have been variable in some aspects, however, the pulled pork was consistent, and the brisket outstanding on one visit. Sides are decent, too.

I was in St. Louis a couple of weeks ago visiting family and my cousin ordered out from Sugarfire for about 12 of us. I was very impressed with how good it was and how well it stood up the hour between purchase and eating. The ribs weren't yet ready so my cousin got the pulled pork and the brisket. As Josephine said, the pulled pork was good, but it was the brisket that really stood out, it was moist with just enough fat. The sauces weren't really needed, but out of the four they sent, the coffee bbq and the carolina mustard were pretty good.

The sides were all okay, nothing special, but we had an appetizer order of baby artichokes that had been fried with a breadcrumb coating that I'm still thinking about, they were amazing. It was nice to have an option close to Warson Woods, I look forward to trying more of your suggestions.

A quick note on Sump Coffee--while the coffee is great and the space is beautiful, if you take sugar in your coffee you're gonna have to bring your own.

3700 S Jefferson Ave

Bombay Food Junkies Truck by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I finally caught up with Bombay Food Junkies, purveyors of vegetarian Bombay street food at the Taubman Prestige Mall (don't ask) in Chesterfield last week. (For Luddites like me, it has taken a bit of doing to get used to their system of posting each day's planned lunch location on their Facebook page.) Their short menu for that day featured some interesting stuff.


Menu, Bombay Food Junkies by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I've lost my taste for sweets in recent years, but I'd love to try that rose petal kulfi sometime. (I wonder if they make it with rose petal preserves such as the ones I remember having in Romania or if they use the Ziyad brand rosewater I found at Global Foods Market to enhance my late-season strawberries.)I settled on the Masala Roti Wrap and was asked to specify my spice level preference. Although I do not claim any special expertise in the area of Indian food I do have a special affection for Indian flavors, and this lunch indulged my craving for complexity. The spicing was not the usual, expected profile one finds in a "greatest hits" lunch buffet. Bits of ginger and pickled pepper stood out in the cilantro sauce. I could eat that rice with yoghurt three meals a day. Happily, I will not have to travel to the outlet mall in order to taste this nourishing food for the soul again. Bombay Food Junkies park in the Barnes Jewish Hospital/Wash U Med Scool campus in the Central West End on a regular basis.


Masala Roti Wrap & Rice by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Chouquette by Josephine2004, on Flick

Patisserie Chouquette is a bit of Paris in St. Louis, the creation of Simone Faure, a New Orleans native whose path to pastry chefdom and eventually, Chouquette, is profiled here. Few Parisian patissiers could afford Chouquette's spacious interior, but in St. Louis, there are lots of empty-yet-solid vintage brick buildings and tax breaks for entrepreneurs. (Check out St. Louis Patina here and here if you ever had a fantasy about starting a restaurant in a cool old, boarded-up building.) It can be done, just listen to this this interview by Cat Neville with Chef Ben Poremba, owner of Olio, Elaia, and, with Marc Sanfilippo, of Salume Beddu, about the process.

This is just one corner of Chouquette's enormous space, which might serve as the perfect setting for a bridal or baby shower, or for a festive reception.


Chouquette Interior by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Pastry Chef Simone Faure delights the girlie-girl in me. I imagine that she is the baker in demand for weddings, showers, and such. A search last year for an 80th birthday celebration cake with passion fruit filling and buttercream led me to Chef Faure at the Ritz-Carlton in Clayton, her former home. The cake was outstanding.


Confiserie de Chouquette by Josephine2004, on Flickr

The chubby girl in me usually wins out over the girlie girl, as here, with the chou du jour, a crispy-on the outside chou pastry filled with chocolate mousse tinted with raspberry:


Chou du Jour by Josephine2004, on Flickr

If I lived nearby, I'd be at Chouquette every Saturday morning for one of these:


Croissants at Chouquette by Josephine2004, on Flickr

I'll be thinking ahead to my next visit, with visions of multicolored rows of macarons in my head.

I'm in St. Louis until Wednesday helping my brother with the kids while my sister-in-law is out of town. They live in Creve Coeur, and I'd love to get takeout or delivery one night to make life a little easier. We both love to cook, but I'm still working while here, the kids are 7 months and 5 years, and my brother's also studying for a new professional license--with the test about a week away--so there's a lot going on. And I suspect they haven't had a chance to try many new restaurants in recent months.

My brother & I like everything, and my nephew can be picky but can be appeased with stuff that's already in the fridge. Any suggestions for a place that's within ~10 minutes of The Bagel Factory (they live within walking distance...mmmm!) and would be OK for carryout/delivery?

chgoeditor wrote:I'm in St. Louis until Wednesday helping my brother with the kids while my sister-in-law is out of town. They live in Creve Coeur, and I'd love to get takeout or delivery one night to make life a little easier. We both love to cook, but I'm still working while here, the kids are 7 months and 5 years, and my brother's also studying for a new professional license--with the test about a week away--so there's a lot going on. And I suspect they haven't had a chance to try many new restaurants in recent months.

My brother & I like everything, and my nephew can be picky but can be appeased with stuff that's already in the fridge. Any suggestions for a place that's within ~10 minutes of The Bagel Factory (they live within walking distance...mmmm!) and would be OK for carryout/delivery?

My fall back in Creve Couer is the Dierberg's down the street. They generally have some good takeout options (as well as a Kosher bakery).

Also, there is an independent gourmet grocery that is between the bagel shop and the Courtyard by Marriott. The name of the place escapes me. When I was there a couple years back, they had some great food.

Josephine mentioned some other options this afternoon, but I am drawing a blank.

jlawrence01 wrote:My fall back in Creve Couer is the Dierberg's down the street. They generally have some good takeout options (as well as a Kosher bakery).

That's actually their go-to grocery store and I agree, they do have some good takeout! (In fact, that might be my lunch tomorrow.

Also, there is an independent gourmet grocery that is between the bagel shop and the Courtyard by Marriott. The name of the place escapes me. When I was there a couple years back, they had some great food.

Wow, really? I assume you're not referring to Trader Joe's! Hmmm...I can't envision it. On the Courtyard/Dierberg side of the street or the other side?

Right now I'm leaning toward takeout from Sugarfire Smokehouse for dinner tomorrow night. My brother and sister-in-law have had a banner crop of tomatoes this year, and I've roasted about 20 pounds in the last two days, so I'm thinking tonight is homemade pizza with oven-roasted tomatoes. And a side of tomato salad. And maybe some leftover couscous with oven-roasted tomatoes. It's ridiculous. My brother's already filled the freezer with stewed tomatoes...at least oven-roasted take up less space. I haven't dared to look at the garden to see how many have ripened since I picked about 10 pounds yesterday afternoon.

jlawrence01 wrote:Also, there is an independent gourmet grocery that is between the bagel shop and the Courtyard by Marriott. The name of the place escapes me. When I was there a couple years back, they had some great food.

It was called Provisions and it was really good (I was a VERY frequent guest at that Courtyard since my boss' office was in the City Place building down the street). Unfortunately, it appears to be closed now.

boudreaulicious wrote:

jlawrence01 wrote:Also, there is an independent gourmet grocery that is between the bagel shop and the Courtyard by Marriott. The name of the place escapes me. When I was there a couple years back, they had some great food.

It was called Provisions and it was really good (I was a VERY frequent guest at that Courtyard since my boss' office was in the City Place building down the street). Unfortunately, it appears to be closed now.

I Googled it and found a picture of the facade...yes, I remember it, though I don't think I ever went there. I see they own another nearby place--The Wine & Cheese Place--which sounds as if it might have some interesting beers. I'll try to head over this afternoon to check it out.

The Wine & Cheese Place is run by a very straight-up guy. I've attended some tastings there a while back, and enjoyed the show. Some nice wines available, too.

Geo

chgoeditor wrote:

boudreaulicious wrote:

jlawrence01 wrote:Also, there is an independent gourmet grocery that is between the bagel shop and the Courtyard by Marriott. The name of the place escapes me. When I was there a couple years back, they had some great food.

It was called Provisions and it was really good (I was a VERY frequent guest at that Courtyard since my boss' office was in the City Place building down the street). Unfortunately, it appears to be closed now.

I Googled it and found a picture of the facade...yes, I remember it, though I don't think I ever went there. I see they own another nearby place--The Wine & Cheese Place--which sounds as if it might have some interesting beers. I'll try to head over this afternoon to check it out.

Hi,

Same ownership. Provision had a reputation for effusive and lyrical descriptions of the dishes while keeping the primary ingredient (Chicken, Beef, Pork, Veal) a mystery that was not revealed for up to 50 words. I couldn't resist asking our waitress how the melted fennel sauce was "melted". She had no idea and I suggested acetone....

The Wine and Cheese place is a great place for wines and cheese with a few managerial attitude problems. They also sometimes upsell cheese like Cabrales from Germany. It's still a wonderful resource with the Rock Hill store being the best.

Tim

Sugarfire Smokehouse was great! We got takeout--pulled pork, brisket and a couple of sides. All were fantastic, and I used some leftover pulled pork on a homemade BBQ pizza last night. I'd love to try more of their specials sometime...great looking menu. Thanks for the recommendation!

Josephine,

I just got an email from Zagat proclaiming that Imo's is the best pizza in MO. It's a bit of a shuck, since they proclaimed Da Bronx the best pizza in KS, but it's actually one block from the KS/MO state line...in MO!

Geo

Geo wrote:Josephine,

I just got an email from Zagat proclaiming that Imo's is the best pizza in MO. It's a bit of a shuck, since they proclaimed Da Bronx the best pizza in KS, but it's actually one block from the KS/MO state line...in MO!

Geo

that's completely asinine. imo's is garbage. I barely liked it in college - that's saying something.

Apparently Jimmy Kimmel agrees with me while Jon Hamm disagrees:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pOTC_G6V ... bedded#t=0

chgoeditor - Sorry I missed the window of your visit to suggest some takeout and delivery options. For future reference, I am going to confine my replies to the Creve Coeur area, but, given the low traffic times here, it is about the same time investment to go into town (to get to Porter's Fried Chicken, for instance) as it is to drive across Evanston in traffic to pick up Evanston Chicken Shack or Hecky's fare.

All due respect, jlawrence01- while Dierberg's is a good grocery, I think there is better takeout available in the area, and better grocery. (They have a knack for eliminating items from my standard order, e.g. fresh mozzarella: "Seasonal," Serranos, and Volpi Pepperoni.) That said, I have not tried their Bob's BBQ, which seems popular and smells pretty darn good.

For Deli takeout there are two options in Creve Coeur: Pumpernickle's and Kohn's Kosher Deli. Kohn's is located just off Olive Blvd. and has the best garlicky, moist deli turkey loaf I have ever had. It makes me take back all the bad things I have ever said about industrial turkey paste. Kohn's is known for their "Killer Pastrami," which I have not tried, devoted as I am to the turkey. Pumpernickle's has a messy combo sandwich, the "Sloppy Louie" that I sometimes crave, and some very good matzo ball soup as well as a good health slaw, and is more convenient than Kohn's. I often pick up some corned beef, turkey, St. Louis (light, seeded, cornmeal dusted) rye bread and pickles there when the grandkids are visiting. They also have some sweets with kid appeal called UFO's, which are little cakes draped in black and white icing.

For grocery takeout, which I rarely spring for, Straub's is my choice. In downtown Clayton, or on Mason and Clayton Road in Town and Country, Straub's is an old St. Louis institution (since 1901) which has no Chicago equivalent that I know of. [Edit: Actually, in many respects, Straub's is like Chicago's Treasure Island, with a better maintained facility. (I base that on my experience of the Wilmette Treasure Island - Old Town and Hyde Park stores may be better.) According to their Wikipedia article, Straub's sold ice cream at the 1904 World's Fair. I like Straub's Clayton store because it combines the butcher resources of a scaled-down Paulina Market (expertly trimmed Standing Rib, local Goose) with the gourmet emporium of a local version of Dean and DeLuca. They have anything you might desire from local stars in specialty food, including Ka'kao chocolate, Fitz's root beer, Baetje cheeses and Hammon's black walnuts. They have a good bakery, and sell the best of local bakers as well. I'll give them special props for stocking fresh items from Gluten-Free, Peanut Free New Day Bakery and Restaurant, which are head and shoulders above anything Whole Foods has to offer. Also, I have begun to crave their chicken salad on fresh, soft Parker House rolls. Don't take my word for it. They apparently sell 35 tons of the stuff every year! (Wikipedia). Note that the Straub's at Clayton Road and Mason Road in Town and Country - just across the border from Creve Coeur - has a smaller selection, but is also an excellent store.

Regarding the Wine and Cheese Shop, I think the Clayton location is much better in terms of breadth of offerings than the Creve Coeur location.

For the best local beer selection in town, check out Local Harvest Grocery. They have a city location in Tower Grove South. Unfortunately, their Kirkwood location didn't catch on, but they offer a lot of Missouri foods that are hard to find elsewhere, from small farmers, particularly organically raised meats, corn products, sorghum syrup. Your great-grandmother's grocery - if she had not been the passionate tee-totaller she was.
[Edit: I forgot to mention their Local Harvest Cafe on Morganford, south of Tower Grove Park. (Also Downtown, in the Old Post Office.) Maddie Earnest, the proprietor, is the driving force behind much of the local food movement here, including the Tower Grove Farmers' Market. Local Harvest Cafe is truly local and sustainable, while being delicious (think Missouri trout, or Todd Geisert Farms pork). Don't take my word for it - just try to get in for brunch.]

Here are some restaurants in Creve Coeur that offer takeout and delivery:

In Creve Coeur proper, there is newly opened Ocha, a very pleasant Japanese and Thai place. We have eaten there several times and done takeout with better-than-most-for-St.Louis results from the Thai side of the menu. They also do delivery. (For Lincoln Square level Thai, hit Fork 'N Stix on Delmar or the Thai New Year Festival in Florissant - excellent, homemade Isaan sausage!)

Oishi Sushi on New Ballas road does takeout standard sushi.

There is also Gobblestop Smokehouse, a relatively new poultry-centric BBQ joint with very, very nice owners. Apparently, a well-known family in Chicago BBQ circles is a regular customer here. They do something really good with a chewy cut of turkey on-the-bone that makes it taste like pork. Terrific sauces. Edit: Closed Sunday. Stopped by today for this: a perfectly moist and juicy Pulled Chicken sandwich with a generous side of not-too-sweet house-made coleslaw that was also just terrific. The sauce is a deep, sweet (molasses?) and complex one. Again, VERY nice owners. They also have fresh cookies of various kinds, if you have kids in tow.


Gobblestop Smokehouse Pulled Chicken Sandwich by Josephine2004, on Flickr

Dave and Tony's Premium Burger Joint gets my vote for one of the best burgers in town. Why? Excellent, flavorful, juicy patty, cooked the way you order it. They offer high quality toppings, and a very clean place to eat in that is OK for kids, but not overrun by kids. A new place, I think they are a bit confused about their positioning. They make takeout front-and-center, and emphasize a pared-down decor, but they also seem to want to run a tavern with sports screens. I think they'd do more business with more comfortable seating, warmer decor and table service, but what do I know? The issue is their price point, which is higher than expected without the creature comforts. Still, they do deliver by offering an excellent burger and a beer, as well as many other options. These including very good, hearty salads, chili, non-frozen fries, terrific rings, and the option to order your burger on a salad.

South Indian idlis are very fresh at lunch and dosas are crispy and well-spiced at Mayuri Indian Restaurant, though the vibe for eat-in there is sub-optimal due to the glum, surly owner and sticky menus. (Those who know me are aware that I am unlikely to comment on an owner's unpleasant personality unless there is a consistent issue.) Also at Mayuri, Indian-Chinese dishes are available.

A few Korean spots of note exist here, including fast food fusion emporium, KimCheese, located in what might have been a Taco Bell, complete with drive-through window. They have an unusually good burger, which is actually a sort of kalbi, rather than ground meat. Also Korean tacos.

La Bonne Bouchee is more of a bakery than a restaurant, though it seems to represent the best of Creve Coeur. They have recently expanded and also have an outdoor space. I have not eaten dinner there, but they do have a limited French menu. From the looks of the menu on the website, this runs to salads, sandwiches, and a few entrees. The owner is French. Their pastries are excellent and in most important ways, authentic, with shockingly reasonable prices. The buttercream, for instance, is not-too-sweet. Frostings in general are blessedly light, so that even a frosting-hater like me enjoys them. Tarts are expertly made, and indistinguishable from Parisian versions. Freshness is never an issue. They have recently added Laduree-style macarons in many many flavors. Unfortunately, I am not a huge fan of their baguettes, which are exceedingly light. Another teensy issue for me is that the decoration of some the cakes leans a bit toward the more-is-better school of decoration, which seems a bit old-fashioned to me. (Just a quibble, really, but an update to edgier styles might help them get more wedding business, perhaps?)

[Edit: You didn't ask, but for eat-in without kids within a few miles of Creve Coeur center, why not try these?

Spiro's has a supper club atmosphere for lamb chops and other good Greek food.

Paul Manno's (Chesterfield) and Paul Mineo's (Town and Country) are Hill expats serving nostalgic Italian-American favorites.
Paul Manno's I have not tried, but there appears to be a consensus about the lasagne and canneloni: best in town. It is in a remakably downscale strip mall. Paul Mineo's reminds me of a quieter Sabatino's decorated by "Painter of Light" Thomas Kinkade's Italian cousin. Great veal chop, veal saltimbocca.

A slightly longer drive takes you to Balaban's. This wine bar has excellent small plates such as pizzas with duck confit. You purchase wine at a retail price in their wine store (which is incorporated into the restaurant) and they serve it to you. I don't recall if there is a corkage, but this makes for a good value.]

For more items such as Chinese BBQ, Vietnamese Banh Mi, Pakistani lamb nihari etc. head down Olive Blvd. into Olivette and University City.

One more thing: with kids in tow, and nice weather, there are many good parks in the area that are both clean and well-equipped. Two of these are Millenium Park and Longview Farm Park. Millenium Park is located behind Barnes-Jewish Hospital in Creve Coeur, next to the Montessori School. There is a water feature (sprinkler) in the park, as well as a picnic shelter, playground, and BBQ's. The Historic Tappmeyer House is adjacent. In Town and Country, the Longview Farm Park has charming, shaded trails, picnic tables, a stable with horses, and a playground, as well as a fishing hole (no fishing license required for those under 16 years of age or over 64). All are ADA accessible with paved trails. The house itself is available for rental for special events. Also in Town and Country is the Museum of The Dog, and adjacent Keeny Park. Dogs are welcome in both the museum and in the park. I continue to be amazed at the well-maintained public green space that St. Louis city and county have to offer.

Thank you so much for all of the suggestions, Josephine! With two kids (an 8mo and a 5yo) they prefer to eat at home, but we might get takeout or delivery once if I'm there for a week. Oishi Sushi is one of their go-to spots as is Pi Pizzeria. That said, I work from their house when I'm in town and it's quiet at midday, so some of your suggestions are places I'd certainly check out for a solo lunch. I've already spent four weeks there this year and I'm sure I'll spend a couple more there before the year is done, so I'm looking forward to trying some of these spots!

Great thread Josephine. As a frequent St Louis visitor when our son attended Wash U, I must say I came to love St Louis and your thread adds a whole lot more reasons to continue to visit. Like a lot of old cities, St Louis gets a bad rap for the crime that in reality only effects a small percentage of residents in particularly bad areas that "tourists" would rarely venture into. There are some great areas that no one should be afraid to visit in St Louis, like Soulard for instance. What I find interesting is that I see next to none of the great MO wine available in local restaurants. No visit to the area is complete without a venture out to one of the wineries that surround St Louis.

bbqbyrds wrote:Great thread Josephine. As a frequent St Louis visitor when our son attended Wash U, I must say I came to love St Louis and your thread adds a whole lot more reasons to continue to visit. Like a lot of old cities, St Louis gets a bad rap for the crime that in reality only effects a small percentage of residents in particularly bad areas that "tourists" would rarely venture into.There are some great areas that no one should be afraid to visit in St Louis, like Soulard for instance.

Thanks, bbqbyrds. I'm really glad you have come to appreciate this city. I was amazed at how old and charming most of Soulard is, and the market is undergoing some major improvements. St. Louis' 1849 fire (started on a paddlewheel steamboat) caused the city to rebuild in brick, leading to many of the durable, charming buildings that make up St. Louis' current housing stock, which more and more, are being renovated. The 1904 World's Fair left the city with beautiful parks and cultural landmarks, which continue to attract investment from philanthropists.

You are correct that crime stats paint an inaccurate picture. My understanding is that the crime stats reflect the entire metro area, which includes East St. Louis, Illinois. Though it has a small population, it has a bad reputation among Missourians (who also support the shady goings on in East St. Louis). Not long ago, Dick Durbin was working with a number of faith leaders in East St. Louis to close down the late-night businesses.) We will hope that effort is productive. There is also a great deal of development around town in areas that were pretty boarded up in recent years. The area called "The Grove" (along Manchester where Sweetie Pie's is located) now hosts Handlebar, for hipster bicycle enthusiasts as well as Sanctuaria, a Brazilian-influenced Latin restaurant. Soon to open there is a $10MM "green" brewery from Urban Chestnut in a restored building. The city has fewer and fewer properties available on the rolls of abandoned, city-owned properties, because various developers have scarfed up many of them in areas adjacent to Tower Grove, SLU (Grand Center and South Grand) andall along the corridor where the new streetcar line will run- from U City to downtown through the Central West End and Northward, linking parts of the city that are underserved as well as those that are destination points. For those who are interested, here is a copy of the plan.

bbqbyrds wrote:What I find interesting is that I see next to none of the great MO wine available in local restaurants. No visit to the area is complete without a venture out to one of the wineries that surround St Louis.

The countryside is beautiful, but I wish that, like Santa Barbara and Portland, some of the wineries would set up tasting rooms or production facilities in the city. I think that would do a lot for their brands and for tourism. The Old Lemp Brewery would be a great location. They even have natural caves underneath the brewery for wine barrels.

bbqbyrds wrote:What I find interesting is that I see next to none of the great MO wine available in local restaurants. No visit to the area is complete without a venture out to one of the wineries that surround St Louis.

For those interested in Missouri wine, I recommend perusal of the latest issue of Feast. There is a fair amount of information about local varietals, including the Norton, Missouri's "state grape." (As much as I deplore the usual choices of Missouri's Legislature, the designation of a state grape seems a valuable exercise of legislative authority.)

I've been obsessed with the idea of opening a nitro ice cream shop ever since my visit to London's Chin Chin Labs some time back, chronicled here. Being full of great ideas and empty of the inclination to execute them, I was delighted to learn that St. Louisans will be getting our own version of nitro ice cream in June at Ices Plain and Fancy. According to Sauce Magazine's blog, Schlafly's Troika Brodsky, chef Max Crask of Tripel, (a Flemish-inspired restaurant), Darla Crask (Chef Crask's sister) and Matthew Deutschmann are four college friends who are developing a corner ice-cream shop in the Shaw neighborhood, just north of St. Louis' beautiful Tower Grove Park and adjacent to the Missouri Botanical Garden. It is inspired by Victorian England's answer to Martha Stewart, Agnes B. Marshall, aka "Queen of Ices," (vs. Martha's Ice Queen.) I can't wait to see what Chef Crask comes up with using his anti-griddle, a quick-freeze device.

Also new in St. Louis is a place that has shot to the top of my must-see list: The Grand Hall, a small plates and cocktails spot in the newly restored Union Station. This Gilded Age survivor is one of the wonderful things that have survived in St. Louis, while NY's Penn Station and others have not. Renovated hotel rooms are planned in the massive building.

On a personal note, I finally made it to Pappy's BBQ. It lived up to the glowing reviews. All I can add is that I think they manage the crowds quite well. At prime lunch time on a weekday, there was only a 10-minute wait. On the other hand, with St. Louis real estate so cheap, why don't they just add a couple hundred seats?

Ices Plain and Fancy
2256 S. 39th St.
St. Louis
(Shaw Neighborhood)

The Grand Hall
Union Station
1820 Market Street
St. Louis, MO 63103
(314)421-6655

bbqbyrds wrote:What I find interesting is that I see next to none of the great MO wine available in local restaurants. No visit to the area is complete without a venture out to one of the wineries that surround St Louis.

For those interested in Missouri wine, I recommend perusal of the latest issue of Feast. There is a fair amount of information about local varietals, including the Norton, Missouri's "state grape." (As much as I deplore the usual choices of Missouri's Legislature, the designation of a state grape seems a valuable exercise of legislative authority.)

I've been obsessed with the idea of opening a nitro ice cream shop ever since my visit to London's Chin Chin Labs some time back, chronicled here. Being full of great ideas and empty of the inclination to execute them, I was delighted to learn that St. Louisans will be getting our own version of nitro ice cream in June at Ices Plain and Fancy. According to Sauce Magazine's blog, Schlafly's Troika Brodsky, chef Max Crask of Tripel, (a Flemish-inspired restaurant), Darla Crask (Chef Crask's sister) and Matthew Deutschmann are four college friends who are developing a corner ice-cream shop in the Shaw neighborhood, just north of St. Louis' beautiful Tower Grove Park and adjacent to the Missouri Botanical Garden. It is inspired by Victorian England's answer to Martha Stewart, Agnes B. Marshall, aka "Queen of Ices," (vs. Martha's Ice Queen.) I can't wait to see what Chef Crask comes up with using his anti-griddle, a quick-freeze device.

Also new in St. Louis is a place that has shot to the top of my must-see list: The Grand Hall, a small plates and cocktails spot in the newly restored Union Station. This Gilded Age survivor is one of the wonderful things that have survived in St. Louis, while NY's Penn Station and others have not. Renovated hotel rooms are planned in the massive building.

On a personal note, I finally made it to Pappy's BBQ. It lived up to the glowing reviews. All I can add is that I think they manage the crowds quite well. At prime lunch time on a weekday, there was only a 10-minute wait. On the other hand, with St. Louis real estate so cheap, why don't they just add a couple hundred seats?

Ices Plain and Fancy
2256 S. 39th St.
St. Louis
(Shaw Neighborhood)

The Grand Hall
Union Station
1820 Market Street
St. Louis, MO 63103
(314)421-6655

Having a porchetta sandwich recently at Salume Beddu, I came across Shop Like a Chef: A Food Lover's Guide to St. Louis Neighborhoods. The book was inspired by A Cook's Guide to Chicago, but, according to Chef Clara Moore, in the process of writing the book, it became "Cook and Eat Local, Seasonal, Small and Independent Guide to St. Louis" or "The Joy of Shopping through a Chef's Eyes." The book gives thumbnail sketches of the interesting neighborhoods, and might be a nice accompaniment to a visit for a person taking in the city for the first time.

Although I've uncovered many of the Chef's recommendations already (pristine fish at Bob's Seafood in Olivette, knives at Bertarelli's on The Hill, Argan oil at Vom Fass in Maplewood), I am looking forward to future trips in search of dried mulberries at Afghan Market in South City, Bosnian smoked beef at South City Mesnica in Bevo, and all manner of Indian spices at Akshar Foods in Bridgeton. Fortunately, sprawl has not cut west-suburban locals like me out of the interesting food. Within a mile or two I have small markets stocking Kosher, Halal, Mexican, Indian & Pakistani, Korean, Japanese, and Italian foodstuffs. And I'm encouraged by small stores and restaurants popping up in the lower-rent strip malls nearby, such as Kim Cheese - a Korean fast food spot with a Bulgogi burger that can be had from a drive-through.

News came just before noon today in a thoughtful email to customers that James Beard winner Chef Gerard Craft plans to close his highly acclaimed Niche restaurant. He will re-open a month later as Sardella, an Italian-inspired restaurant. Chef Craft shared his perspective on the fine-dining world - "a bit of a roller coaster" and stated that his "heart drifted towards Italy over the years." Fortunately, that drift yielded his Pastaria and Porano Pasta efforts. I quote from Chef Craft's email here:

The team all agreed that we love the food at Niche more than just about anything, especially all of the veg plates. That being said, we all felt that going to Niche came with a certain amount of obligation. We really focused hard on that word OBLIGATION. Obligation to have a long dining experience. Taking that word, we began to craft a restaurant that would be fun. Getting to #1 can be fun and exhilarating but staying there certainly takes its toll. We wanted to build a place that cared more about the diners having a good time than trying to keep 4 stars. In order to do that, we realized that we needed a new name and a fresh start. It's terrifying but incredibly freeing at the same time. Taking everything that we've learned about local sourcing, preservation, and impeccable service, we began crafting Sardella. The name comes from an old Calabrian fish sauce that seems to have been lost in time, and much like our cooking, we like to take hidden treasures from the past and make them new again. Our architect, Sasha Malinich (Old Niche, Porano, Peacemaker), has designed us a space that will clearly reflect the way that we, the employees of Sardella, like to personally eat and drink. We can't wait to share it with you.

The last night of service at Niche is June 11th. So glad I was able to celebrate two special occasions there. And I will look forward to Sardella.

I've been neglecting this thread. So sorry. Updating now since I am delighted to report that St. Louis now has some things it has been missing: Excellent bread, excellent croissants and high-end Mexican dining.

Union Loafers, a bakery with lunch, is located at the same intersection as Olio and Chouquette in McCree Town- Botanical Heights, south of The Grove and North of the Missouri Botanical Gardens. They make the best bread I have had stateside since the master baker (sorry I cannot recall her name) of the late Fox & Obel decamped to greener pastures. The Light and Mild is anything but. It has a subtle ferment and a bit of burn on the crust. The baguette is not a floppy thing, but a substantial and crusty wand of crunch. And so fresh!! I just adore the yeasty caraway rye loaf. Lunch offerings involve a truly perfect, clear and umami-rich chicken soup, lightened with bits of just-tender carrot and celery. The smoked trout salad, the turkey sandwich with housemade Durkee's sauce, the kale and chickpea soups are all favorites of mine. I just can't seem to go anywhere else for lunch these days. And now they do pizza several evenings a week. This is the best pizza I have had in STL. Neapolitan style by way of New Haven. I understand there is La Quercia and antipasto salad if you eat in. Beer and wine is available. Note: Baguettes come out at noon. Bread sells out regularly. Get there early. I make a point of traveling across the city at least weekly for this bread, and I understand there are some customers who regularly travel a couple of hours for the same reason.

Comet Croissanterie and Creamery is a new place opened by a croissant obsessive profiled in this article in Sauce magazine: http://www.saucemagazine.com/a/2339
Based on what I read about Steph Fischer, the determined woman behind this place, I headed to the Kirkwood location immediately after reading the article. I was not disappointed. In sum, the croissants are outstanding Paris-quality-you-can-smell-before-you-taste works of art. There is pain au chocolat, almond bear claw, spinach pinwheels, and ham and cheese. If you are central, there is a Forest Park location to get these croissants as well, in Comet Coffee. My flickr account is not working just now. Pics to follow. Oh, and their gelato is now back for the season. Looks like they have vegan and GF options.

In other news, I really enjoyed Nixta from Ben Poremba's group, (Poremba is behind Olio, Elia and Parigi.) Not sure why he does not want to call it a Mexican restaurant, except out of fear of being pigeon-holed. I think he should give the public a bit more credit for understanding Mexican cuisine. He should also dump the salsa music and give us at least a candle to see the beautiful plates that Chef Tello Carreon composes. Those comments aside, the ingredient quality and execution was outstanding when we ate there. Lamb barbacoa tacos were generously garnished with a chiffonade of herbs, including mint. The beef cheek with Chef Carreon's grandmother's mole was silky, complex and earthy. Every plate we ordered had vegetables to balance and lighten the hearty flavors and textures. The portions, billed as small-plates, were huge - we way over-ordered, though I am not complaining. Not a weak link in the menu as far as we could tell. They also have music and cocktails and a limited late-night menu 10-12 midnight.

Union Loafers
http://unionloafers.com
Address: 1629 Tower Grove Ave, St. Louis, MO 63110
Hours:
LUNCH WED-SUN 11-3P
DINNER WED-THR 530-9P // FRI-SAT 530-10P
BREAD WED-SAT 11-SOLD OUT // SUN 11-4
CLOSED MONDAY & TUESDAY
Note: Baguettes come out at noon. Bread sells out regularly. Get there early.
Phone: (314) 833-6111

Comet Croissanterie and Creamery
http://cometcoffeestl.com/croissanterie ... -location/
Address: 640 W Woodbine Ave, Kirkwood, MO 63122
Hours: 7AM-11AM Closed Monday and Tuesday
Phone: (314) 394-1033

Comet Coffee
5708 OAKLAND AVENUE
SAINT LOUIS, MISSOURI 63110
Monday - Friday from 7am - 5pm
Saturday from 8am - 4pm
Sunday from 8am - 2pm

Nixta
https://www.nixtastl.com
Address: 1621 Tower Grove Ave, St. Louis, MO 63110
Hours: Tues- Sun· 5–10PM
Bar Limon: Tues- Sat 10-12 midnight
Phone: (314) 899-9000
Reservations: opentable.com

Josephine wrote:Vegetarian: The Tree House on South Grand, looks like a vegetarian restaurant that I would enjoy, even though I am an omnivore. Bring on the red curry deviled eggs, pictured in Sauce Magazine’s July issue. Likely I will try this place soon with a vegetarian friend.
Edit: Still going strong in 2016.

We had a very good vegan lunch here last week. Some thoughtful bottles on the brief wine list. Really nice space. Would return.

Al Ehrhardt wrote:

Josephine wrote:Vegetarian: The Tree House on South Grand, looks like a vegetarian restaurant that I would enjoy, even though I am an omnivore. Bring on the red curry deviled eggs, pictured in Sauce Magazine’s July issue. Likely I will try this place soon with a vegetarian friend.
Edit: Still going strong in 2016.

We had a very good vegan lunch here last week. Some thoughtful bottles on the brief wine list. Really nice space. Would return.

Glad you had a good experience there, Al. The last couple times I ate there were last summer - brunches with friends - quite good. I think this is one restaurant that is likely to keep going strong.