Leah,
As someone born & raised in Milwaukee, and who spent the first 30 years of his life there (save the 5 years going to school in Stevens Point), I think your observations are fairly accurate and I've asked myself many of the same questions that you pose.
I'm reminded of something I've learned in the 8 years since I moved south of the "Cheddar Curtain" is that no group of people (for good and/or for bad) have a more powerful voice in "defining Milwaukee" as Chicagoans. Most Chicagoans I know have a rather substantial opinion of what defines Milwaukee and Wisconsin in general. When I meet folks from around the country and the subject of Milwaukee comes up, very often what they know comes either from the national media or from a friend/relative/coworker who lives/lived in metro Chicago. It's just a matter of Chicago's size, and the number of folks who spend part of their careers here, before moving on to other parts of the country.
Milwaukee hasn't always had a strong voice to define itself, but has been defined by some rather unique factors. Take the handful of cheese & sausage shops along I-94 in southern Kenosha county for example. They are an extension of the tourist traps of the Dells and of Door County; designed to separate Chicagoans from their money. Locals don't visit them, but they have helped to define what Wisconsin means to many entering from the south.
For years the smell of yeast many encountered while driving between downtown and what is now Miller Park was said to be from the breweries of Milwaukee. Pro golfer, and struggling alcoholic, John Daly once stated that he didn't like coming to Milwaukee because the smell of beer brewing as he made his way from the airport to the golf course because it triggered an immediate desire for a beer. Ask many Milwaukeeans, and they'd tell you the smell came from the breweries. It didn't of course; it came from the breweries, but from the Red Star Yeast plant that I-94 ran past. Beer supposedly is what made Milwaukee famous, and that could be associated with the brewery business became part of the culture. Many Milwaukeeans believe that the term "Cream City" had to do with either the dairy industry or frothy beer foam; a far cry from the real meaning of the term.
Milwaukee was never historically part of Wisconsin's cheese industry, which really was just an extension of Wisconsin's larger dairy industry. What role has the creation of the "cheesehead" and the rebirth of the Packers to national relevance played in the ever-growing association with cheese to Wisconsin, and to Milwaukee? Has the cheesehead replaced the cow as the symbol of Wisconsin agriculture?
I had to chuckle at Carol Deptolla's comment about fried cheese curds in your article being a restaurant staple. It may be that way today (even that I'd challenge a bit) but I don't remember seeing them served as a kid. Maybe they were in the taverns, but taverns were not exactly the highlight of culinary creativity. They certainly were not served in most restaurants/fast food joints/hamburger & custard stands. I remember seeing them pop up in maybe the early '90s. Heck, fresh curds were fairly rare as a kid. You had them when you went to the dairy on school field trips, and maybe if you stopped at one of the few stores focused on cheese (mainly in vacation towns) but you certainly didn't see them like you do today; no ranch-flavored cheese curds in the convenience stores of my youth.
I've too have often wondered why a society so focused on sausages never produced a commercial restaurant culture focused on them. Always surprised that Culvers doesn't put them on the menu. It's been interesting watching Culvers flirt with their Wisconsin connection. They play up the fact that they use Wisconsin cheddar and Wisconsin dairy products, but don't mention the Milwaukee connection to the butter burger. Given Wisconsin's perception nationally as a state that doesn't exactly "scrimp" on the quality and quantity of its foods (i.e. see WI obesity rates, heart disease rates, etc) I'm surprised that Culvers doesn't play up on the Wisconsin connection more than it does.
The importance of frozen custard is much greater today than ever before. When I was young, the only places that served it were basically Kopps, Gillies and Leons. The overwhelming majority of Milwaukee stands served ice cream. I spent my youth eating ice cream at A&W and a number of local ice cream stands; frozen custard was pretty rare. And the idea that frozen custard was common in the central core of Milwaukee is wrong; Gillies is on the far western edge of the city, Kopps is in suburban Glendale and Leons is deep in the heart of the far south side. Frozen custard is expensive to make, compared to ice cream. Frozen custard started to expand first with Oscars opening up in West Allis & Brookfield in the '80s and the expansion of Kopps to Greenfield and Brookfield. It wasn't until Culvers got started that frozen custard became commonplace throughout the city and the state. Overall, Wisconsin is an ice cream, not a frozen custard, state. The same is true for most of southeastern Wisconsin.
The Milwaukee of your dreams might have been possible if the metro area was more compact than it is, if the collapse of the manufacturing base had been mitigated by the growth of some tech sector, and if there was some major university or other element to keep much of the upwardly mobile young professionals from being drawn elsewhere; Chicago being the most obvious "culprit".
I'll stop here, as I've babbled on far too long. But you are very correct in saying that the perception of Milwaukee from a foodie perspective is far, far different than reality.
JMO,
Dave
Last edited by
BadgerDave on July 22nd, 2012, 9:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.