Things to do with matzo
Matzo is the simplest of foods, made from just flour and water. For Passover, its preparation -- from the time the flour first touches the water to the completion of baking -- must be finished in less than 18 minutes. All commercial matzo is rolled out by machine, punched with holes and baked in a similar process.
Why then, should there be such variation in taste from brand to brand? Is it the flour? The water? Baking temperature? I don't know. I do know that most U.S. brands taste terribly bland. Yehuda Matzo, from Israel, is one of my favorites -- it's always very crisp, with a pleasantly acrid, toasty flavor. The matzos come double wrapped, with a cellophane envelope enclosing them inside the box as well as more cellophane wrapping the outside, which is probably what keeps them crisp.
As the
folksingers say, you can do many things with matzo.
My favorite way to eat matzo is well buttered and heavily sprinkled with salt. Ideally, the salt is freshly ground sea salt, but plain old Morton's will do.
Himself and I always have a tug of war over butter, because I want to leave it out to soften for easy spreading and he insists on putting it back in the fridge, claiming he can taste butyric acid after even a short period at room temperature. Most of the year I put up with this and microwave the butter briefly before using, but at Passover I defiantly keep my own personal room-temperature stick of butter hidden in a cupboard.
My next favorite way would be fried. As with
other Jewish foods, opinion varies markedly as to what makes the best
matzo brei. Some like it crisp; others soft. Some people make it very eggy; others prefer a higher ratio of matzo. Some people make a loose, ragged, scrambled-eggs style; others make it more like a
frittata or pancake; still others separate the eggs and make something like matzo souffle. Some people like it savory, some people like it sweet.
As with other egg dishes, you can add anything you like. I considered making a chilaquiles-style version, in honor of
Evil Ronnie, but tradition won out. My version compromises between styles -- slightly scrambled, partly crisp, partly soft, savory with fried onions and salt and pepper, yet finished with a drizzle of sweet syrup. What can I say? This is how my bubbe made it.
First, slice up an onion and set it frying -- in schmaltz for the best flavor, or in Nyafat or peanut oil* if it's part of a dairy meal. While they cook, break the matzos into pieces just small enough to fit in a bowl and cover with water. Let sit for about 1 minute, just till moistened -- don't let them get soggy.
Drain well and break the matzos into smaller bits. Then mix with beaten eggs, salt and pepper. I typically use one and a half eggs for every matzo, but if you're short on eggs you can add a little milk, water or juice. Don't skimp on the salt.
Once the onions are well browned, add the eggs to the frying pan. Stir around as if you were making scrambled eggs until the eggs start to firm up, then pull together into a solid round and let cook until the underside has thoroughly browned.
Then turn over. If I am trying to be fancy, I do the flip by inverting onto a plate to keep the
matzo brei in one piece. Otherwise, I just turn over hunks with a spatula.
Cook a few minutes, until the bottom is just starting to brown. The idea is to achieve a perfect combination of crispness and softness.
Matzo brei
Fried matzo
Schmaltz, Nyafat or Passover peanut oil*
1 medium onion, peeled and sliced
2 matzos
3 eggs, beaten
1 teaspoon salt or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper or to taste
Raspberry or maple syrup (optional)
Heat the schmaltz in a skillet over medium heat and brown the onions. While they cook, break the matzos into large pieces, place in a bowl and cover with water for about 1 minute, just till moistened -- don't let them get soggy.
Drain the water and break the matzos into bite-sized pieces. Add the eggs, salt and pepper and mix well. Add the mixture to the frying pan and mix with the onions. Toss as if you were making scrambled eggs until the eggs start to firm up, then pull together into a cake.
Let cook until the bottom is well-browned. Then flip to cook the other side just till it starts to brown a bit. Transfer to a platter, browned side up, and serve immediately, with a drizzle of syrup, if desired. 1 to 2 servings.
* The rules regarding kitniot are bizarre.
Last edited by
LAZ on April 23rd, 2008, 10:04 am, edited 1 time in total.