(For those reading the entire thread, you'll notice that our original plan to have dinner at Mix fell through. We did still eat at RM Seafood, as planned. And managed to add in a superb brunch, as you will see:...)
Two-and-a-half days, three meals:
brunch at PAYARD PATISSERIE (Caesar's Palace)
dinner at BAR MASA (Aria Resort and Hotel)
dinner at RM SEAFOOD (Mandalay Bay)
First up: the best croissant I've had in a long, long, long time, possibly ever: Payard Patisserie in Caesar's Palace. François Payard is a third generation pastry chef whose first job was at
La Tour d'Argent. Job #2? At Lucas Carton. This isn't enough, of course, so he moves to NYC where his first two jobs are Le Bernardin and Restaurant Daniel. Talk about overachievers! That croissant was just about perfect. Flaky without being dry in the least, delicate but not crumbly. So buttery you could hardly believe it. Nearly worth the plane fare just to have this croissant. I say "just about perfect" because, although I cannot find a single flaw in it, I am reluctant to pronounce anything "perfect." Were I not so scrupulous, I wouldn't hesitate. This was about as perfect as I ever expect a croissant to be.
We were alerted to this place by a
review from S. Irene Virbila, the difficult-to-please chief critic at the LA Times. (Yes, the one whose picture a pissed-off restaurateur/fool in LA published.) She rhapsodized about brunch in this tiny little spot, all of ten tables or so. The room is round, the buffet (which is a little skimpy) sits in the middle, but you can also order individual dishes. We had some of both--buffet, buffet, and eggs Benedict on a croissant. Plus a croissant or, ahem, several, from the buffet. The buffet, though rather distinctly un-extensive (non-extensive?) (no eggs of any sort, for example) compensated with very high quality items: excellent (thick-cut) lox, bagels (okay, this IS Vegas, they weren't New York bagels), beautiful fruit.... All in all, the offerings, whether entrees (a substantial number) or buffet, were more than sufficient to please almost any palate. And those croissants.... Get thee hence!
We also had very good dinner at Bar Masa in the Aria Resort and Hotel. Masa Takayama owns a little place in NYC that received three Michelin stars. Hmmm. We were just able to have a smallish celebratory dinner for my mother-in-law's birthday before running over to the MGM Grand for Cirque du Soleil. To begin, we split an order of vegetable tempura.
It was everything that tempura should be: light, crisp batter with not a speck of oil. A nice selection of items as well: sweet potato, shrimp, shiitake, green beans, and even a small white fish (we couldn't agree on what it was and forgot to ask). Our entrees involved two orders of sushi: a miso tofu roll and a California roll with Alaskan king crab.
I ordered the "Sizzling Spicy [grilled] Octopus," and we split an order of chicken yakitori, another advertised house specialty.
A couple observations. We found the preparations to be pretty much straightforward, even traditional; this is not his reputation so we were a little surprised. Also, we fully realize that these few dishes are insufficient to take the measure of the place; unfortunately, we had stringent time constraints that dictated what we would order. Still, we think that the courses are representative in the sense that an inability to do these things well means we'd have serious reservations about trusting the kitchen with other things. All that said: my mother-in-law pronounced herself quite happy with her tofu roll and, indeed, urged me to try it. I'll confess that I was fairly reluctant to taste a sushi roll that featured a tofu and a slice of avocado. But etiquette overcame reluctance and I am happy to say that I have never in my life had a creamier, more unctuous piece of tofu. If people had access to this quality of tofu regularly, they would run to embrace it. Hell, I'd eat it for breakfast; I don't think I'll ever have it better in this lifetime . As with so much, this is the difference between hand/home-made and store-bought and there is literally no comparison.
On the other hand (ominous chords sound in the background), I was less than pleased with the octopus. I expected grilled octopus to be, well, grilled. It was hot, it was fresh, it was well-prepared but it was essentially raw. It had been heated--maybe even on a grill--but it was not grilled. And that disappointed me. Quite a bit actually. The shreds of jalapeno worked and didn't overmatch the octopus but raw is raw and that's frankly one reason I ordered it grilled. The yakitori, too, was excellent. Given the price ($30), the portion was adequate, but the preparation was really top-notch. This wasn't bottled teriyaki sauce splashed on some supermarket chicken. The flavor had depth and nuance and the chicken was grilled just right--it came out juicy and delicious, chicken accented by sliced scallion. Were it not for the price, I'd heartily recommend it. So too with LDC's California roll. It's hard to go too far wrong when the roll features Alaskan king crab and so it was here: LDC was quite happy.
I decided to have some sake with my dinner and they had a fairly impressive list. After floundering a bit on my own, I called on the sommelier who clearly knew his stuff. I told him what on his list I'd had and liked and explained the direction I wanted to go. He made a couple recommendations and I ended up selecting the Manabito Kimoto Junmai Ginjo (Akita-ken). It turned out, in the event, to be a touch sweeter than I had expected (or hoped) but was otherwise impressive: rich and full-bodied, yet with enough acidity to stand up, I think, to heavier dishes. I had wanted something a bit drier but was well pleased with the bottle nonetheless.
Desserts: a sweet miso crème brulee and soba ice cream.
As the server noted, the crème brulee didn't taste of miso, per se. The distinctiveness of the miso was lost in the entire dish, but it was wonderful: creamy, not overly sweet, with a perfectly crisp, caramelized crust on top. The soba ice cream was just odd. To me, it tasted of nothing so much as mugi cha, a roasted barley tea--an everyday Japanese tea that I don't care for. Why flavor ice cream with buckwheat? Who knows? Although neither the Lovely Dining Companion nor her mother cared for the ice cream either, I am pleased to say that LDC, after a moment's thought, agreed with my mugi cha reference.
Finally, it's worth noting (especially since he's charging $450/person in NYC) that dinner, including $38 for the sake, was $200 including everything but tip. No, it wasn't a large selection of dishes, but it did include a couple pricey house specialties. (As another example of pricing, I was very pleasantly surprised at the four listed price points for an omakase dinner: the cheapest was a mere $68 and the highest, $175--a remarkably restrained range in Las Vegas, although I have no idea what $68 (or $175 for that matter) got you. And I have to believe that higher priced options could be arranged.) All in all, we thought we did well on price as well as quality. We'd be particularly interested to return when time was not an issue and we could order more and a more varied selection.
Our last meal in Las Vegas was an absolutely top-notch dinner at RM Seafood (that's RM as in Rick Moonen) in the Mandalay Bay. (Sorry, we took no pics here.) The downstairs (main floor) has a somewhat less expensive, distinctly larger menu. It's also a little more, uh, quotidian. Our table felt like that because it was right next to large (and open) glass doors looking out on what was, in essence, an indoor mall portion of the hotel. If we had been seated in the interior of the restaurant, I suspect we would have felt much less like we were on display but the location did not say "high-end restaurant" to any of us. That said, we knew we were in good hands the moment the bread basket arrived: tiny biscuits and cornbread muffins. Maybe not the best I've ever had, but certainly in the competition.
But except for the dessert (of which more, anon), the food was truly superb. We split a jumbo (blue) crab cake served with a side of jicama dressed with a chipotle aioli. I thought the aioli better than I expected but my feeling when ordering--and while eating--was that this was a little too trendy to be a good idea. It worked, but not well enough that I'd look for it. The crabcake, though, was unqualifiedly top-notch, filled with crab. Held together with just enough binder and lightly seasoned: a superb rendition.
Then, off in three distinct directions: halibut, shrimp, and branzino. Not only were the seafood stars on each plate really amazing, but the garnishes and veggie accompaniments were noteworthy as well. LDC's roasted shrimp came with wild arugula (the difference with tame arugula being...?), blood orange, green garlic, and fennel. Seemed like a somewhat an odd combination to me but then I never tasted it because LDC cleaned her plate, so what do I know. A generous (at least for her) portion, grilled just right, and delicious. Apparently the acid in the orange and the bitter in the arugula worked well with the shrimp and I guess, upon reflection, I can see the green garlic and fennel working more as a "salad"-type accompaniment or garnish.
The halibut came with escarole, white beans, and chorizo. Although I found the pairing unusual, Rick Moonen nearly walked off a winner on Top Chef and I'm, well, me. In the event, my mother-in-law pronounced herself quite pleased with the fish and that's really all one can ask. She eats a lot of fish in a lot of places and has pretty high standards. If she's happy.... My own dish, the branzino, was plated next to a spring vegetable ragout that could not have been better done--the flavors, the textures, the done-ness of each bite, impossible to imagine being better. The accompanying romesco sauce sounded better than it was. While there was nothing wrong with this version, it just didn't seem to work with the fish. But the fish was cooked perfectly, skin on. Exactly right. It's not a fish you see often enough (in my humble estimation) so I relished the opportunity to order it. The flesh is firm, the flavor restrained or, as some might say, delicate.
Finally, there is a small selection of sides, all of which are served "family style." We all enjoy spinach and often have it as a side. This, however, was spinach of the gods. I have absolutely no idea what Moonen's kitchen does but I've never had better spinach anywhere, ever. Tender, flavorful, this is the Platonic ideal of spinach. There was garlic, but far less than most places. It was an accent, not overwhelming. If you didn't pay attention, you might even miss it. But the spinach was truly extraordinary. I know it sounds a little odd to go on and on about steamed spinach, but that's how good it was.
dessertSadly, I went with my gut for dessert. Literally and, shall we say, figuratively. The "Fat Elvis"--hey, we were in Vegas--is four "spring rolls" filled with warm chocolate, banana slices, and bacon, the whole disgusting thing then deep-fried and rolled in sugar. Upon mature reflection, I'd say that it is about like it sounds: a mistake. In fairness, it worked better than I had any right to expect but nothing I can think about again or recommend. One question: why a spring roll? As a concept, it worked. At least in terms of taste. But we're talking about a dessert named the "Fat Elvis." Spring rolls? I can appreciate not wanting to do this as a sandwich, but a spring roll? The filling was Elvis, of course. Or do I mistake innovation for inappropriateness?
All in all, a wonderful two-and-a-half day interlude. We stayed at the Bellagio, which was a real treat and visited probably some dozen or two different casinos, some for walk-throughs, others for lengthier stays. Since I was last in Vegas in 1976, things have...um...changed. Largely, though not entirely, for the better. Still, it was a real eye-opener and it's one time I'm sorry I'm no longer in the private sector; I'd love to manage to have a client take me out there!
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)