I count myself a lucky man to have had some time with The Pittsburgh Index in late September:
sazerac is a remarkable ambassador for the City of Bridges and for kitchen chemistry (and science in general) as well. This particular table was at
Everyday Noodles (
http://www.everydaynoodles.net/) in the Squirrel Hill neighborhood, where I was rehearsing medieval music while 5775 was being sung in on every corner. The housemade noodles and wrappers (you can see them being made through a glass portal to the kitchen) were top notch, including wrapped around some homestyle pork xiao long bao tasting richly of pig and onion with little sesame or ginger to mask. Along with some melting allspiced tendon, this was great stuff, and Phase II of a progressive lunch starting at
Sun Penang (
http://www.sunpenang.com/index.html), a Chinese-Malaysian restaurant with some handcrafted dim sum items. There, pork ribs with black beans and light curry seasoning were a step up from Phoenix (where I most commonly order this), crispy squid was excellent, and the chicken feet were dancing with an intense marinade.
Gaby et Jules (
http://www.gabyetjules.com/) was dessert, and like much eating on this few-block stretch, is relatively new. It looked like a museum and smelled like perfectly browned butter, and a splurge on macarons was well-rewarded, especially the white chocolate basil, dark chocolate passionfruit, and Earl Grey. I significantly impressed some Pittsburgh natives sharing these later in the day.
I ate several other meals near this Forbes-Murray corner, and a common theme here and throughout the city is strong local (and extended, skewing more Midwestern than Eastern in my sampling) beer lists, from international cuisine to fine dining and chains. Church Brew Works, East End, and Yuengling are around in corresponding bottles or drafts along with many Belgians, national
uberhops, and collaborations even at your blandish American bistro like
Murray Avenue Grill (great fries also abound in Pittsburgh as here; skip the gazpacho) or Thai place like
Silk Elephant. At the latter, I do have to tout the crispy duck salad, very spicy with green apple slices, bits of lime, and shallots. This seems like a place with talent in the kitchen restrained by a Thai tapas concept and musty space.
Apart from Squirrel Hill I was mostly near Point Breeze in the east and Saint Paul's / Carnegie Mellon in the west. Downhill from Mellon Park was a lovely spot called
Point Brugge with a cafe terrace on which some peak moules frites were served, requisite excellent fries and beer. I had a slow-cooked lamb stew with crispy polenta and a ton of fresh herbs, mushrooms, and tomatoes that was soul-stoking.
Near CMU, a hit was
Ali Baba for Syrian. Fattoush with homemade bread, strong sour yogurt strained in the kitchen with cucumber and mint mixed in, Khan-charred kebabs, and quite a deal (money saved can be reinvested at a great board game shop upstairs). Tying everything together was the aforementioned
Sharp Edge (
http://sharpedgebeer.com/), which we ran into in a few iterations, collecting some remarkable lists of locals, Belgians, and Canadians, and solid cooking together. It's hard not to like Pittsburgh dining at the moment (at least to and fro the Fifth Avenue axis), with an appreciable earnestness everywhere. The inestimable sazerac sounding board enhances the fact that stumble-upon scratch cooking and thoughtful beverages are all around in a place with youthful and immigrant energy. Local fish, barbecue, Japanese, and Croatian are high on my list for a return visit.