I consider last month's trip to Tucson both a huge success, and also a failure of sorts. I say a failure of sorts, because I'd planned on a massive Sonoran hot dog crawl. I marked nine on my map. I planned, realistically, to hit seven. But due to my inability to only eat half a dog at each place as per the original plan, I threw in the towel after five. But I call the trip a huge success because despite falling short of that lofty goal, I feel like I learned pretty much all I need to know. My experience with Sonoran dogs in Tucson is, admittedly, limited, but even so, I feel pretty confident that I've nailed down three guiding truisms... which I'll get to after some of the details.
The dog crawl was bookended by stops at Little Cafe Poca Cosa (another post for another time, but suffice it to say that the chile Colorado was dynamite), and to set the baseline, a couple of friends and I started with the brick and mortar heavy hitters -- BK, and El Güero Canelo. I don't know that it's been fully explained above that these are the two titans of the Tucson Sonoran hot dog scene. Put simply, BK & ECG : Tucson :: Geno's & Pat's : Philly. In more ways than one, as it turns out. But first, BK:
Dog @ BK This is pretty much what I've come to expect -- the dog with bacon, beans, tomatoes, onions, mustard and mayonnaise, jalapeño salsa, and a griddled güero chile on the side, with a condiment cart that also offers sliced canned mushrooms, shredded cheddar cheese, and a borderline watery avocado salsa. In fact, I was surprised by the consistency of toppings across all five joints, but more on that later. It's what you expect. Pillowy soft, sweet bun, that mix of bean and bacon and spice, with just enough mayo and mustard to make cultures collide... it's good. And I wish I'd noticed that they had a second condiment bar near the satellite grill up front before I had finished the first dog, because that's the one big point that I think BK has going for it -- unusual toppings. There's the standard condiment bar mentioned above, but at BK there's a second condiment bar with things like finely diced jicama in a slightly spicy, creamy sauce, minced sauteed mushrooms, and a few other unusual toppings. This, I dug, and for this, I give BK credit.
Dog @ El Güero Canelo But then there's the other heavy hitter, El Güero Canelo, and all were in agreement that while we dug the expanded topping options at BK, at its core EGC serves a better dog -- meatier, better quality sausage (relative scale, here), crisper bacon -- the base is stronger. And on that basis, I can kind of see what inspires the endless BK or EGC battle. And I choose... neither.
But first a stop at El Manantial, one of the three roadside carts we'd check out.
El Manantial Let it be known that the carts are everywhere. There are parts of town we drove through where it seemed like there was at least one on every block. And they all look like this -- a portable cart on a trailer, some kind of sunshade or pop-up tent, some folding tables and chairs, and a pile of boxes and coolers.
Dog @ El Manantial El Manantial's dog was similar to BK's and EGC's... similar enough that I started to wonder if I'd made a mistake in planning to consume seven of these. But this was my introduction to the bacon-wrapped and cheese-stuffed güero chile, which was a kind of fun departure from the plain ones. Personally speaking, more diverting than a selling point, but YMMV. Another solid entry. But it was the next stop where I think the overarching law that governs Sonoran hot dog quality made itself known to me.
Ruiz Hot Dogs Ruiz Hot Dogs. Another vacant, dusty corner, another Sonoran hot dog cart. This one a little more haphazard-looking than most.
The Fellas You know the scene in Blade Runner where Deckard gets noodles from a street vendor? This is what Blade Runner would have looked like if Ridley Scott had had the foresight to realize that it would be Mexican culture working its way into our street scenes rather than Japanese. But hey, it was the '80s. Anyway, I got a pretty good shot of the prep area here as well:
The Griddle and Cold Table This seems pretty typical of the roadside carts -- griddle for the dogs and chiles, small cold table for the toppings, and a stack of buns on the side. But here is where the enormous chasm between Sonoran hot dogs that are fine and Sonoran hot dogs that are awesome became abundantly clear:
Dog @ Ruiz Hot Dogs Hombre's on point. Griddled bun. Seriously, that's it. And it's all the freaking difference in the world. Warm and toasty and crisp, it takes the good and makes it awesome. The bun at Ruiz was griddled to a golden brown all the way around, and the importance of this cannot possibly be overstated. After this, there is no going back. Bonus: the jalapeño salsa actually had some kick here, and the güero chile was my favorite of the day, with a really heavy hit of salt and lime.
El Sinaloense #5 Thankfully, El Sinaloense -- a different location that Hombre's, I believe -- was no letdown. By now, you should be sensing a theme when it comes to the look of these places...
Dog Prep ...and the prep area...
Dog @ El Sinaloense ...and the dog, which got even a little more char than Ruiz's. To me, Ruiz vs. El Sinaloense was a toss-up, though the fact that I now had Sonoran hot dogs backed up into my sinuses may have dulled my enthusiasm for the last entrant somewhat. I think the chile at Ruiz may have been the tiebreaker for me. Of course, El Sinaloense brushed on a nice, healthy dose of butter before griddling the bun, so... tough call. But this was, in terms of preparation, very similar to Ruiz, and in terms of composition, almost exactly the same as everywhere else.
So here are the three lessons I learned:
The Toppings Are All The SameThis really surprised me. I thought there would be
some kind of variation. But no, with the exception of BK's extended topping bar, the uniformity of toppings from place to place was remarkable. The prep may differ, some of the ingredients may be of slightly higher quality at some joints, but basically, they're all serving the exact same thing.
The Griddled Bun Is EVERYTHINGThis was by far the most important lesson learned on this trip. I'm sure that squishy, spongy style has its fans, but if you ask me, there is a
huge gaping chasm between the dogs with griddled buns and those without. The griddled bun is just
right. I now have little desire for Sonoran dogs without griddled buns, and I really want to find someplace up here that does them this way.
The Big Boys SuckRelatively speaking, of course. Everywhere you hear, it's all about BK and EGC, BK and EGC, BK and EGC, the best places in Tucson. Which is best? Well, say the wrong one and you've got a fight. But it's BK or EGC. And this is so not the case. Really, I've got about zero desire to go back to either. Which isn't to say that I didn't enjoy their dogs, but it's just no contest for me at all. IMO, if you aren't griddling that bun to a deep, golden brown, you're making a second-rate Sonoran dog. I don't know how they cemented their position as the two dominant players in the Tucson Sonoran hot dog scene, but I think it's completely unwarranted. Get thee to a roadside stand that griddles the bun posthaste.
BK Carne Asada & Hot Dogswww.bktacos.com5118 S. 12th Avenue
Tucson, AZ 85706
520.295.0105
El Güero Canelowww.elguerocanelo.com5201 S. 12th Avenue
Tucson, AZ 85706
520.295.9005
El ManantialNW corner of S. Park Avenue & E. 36th Street
Tucson, AZ 85713
Ruiz Hot DogsNW corner of S. 6th Avenue & W. 22nd Street
Tucson, AZ 85701
El Sinaloense #5SE corner of E. Lee Street & N. Alvernon Way
Tucson, AZ 85712
Dominic Armato
Dining Critic
The Arizona Republic and
azcentral.com