Thanksgiving weekend found me and Mrs. JiLS in Windsor. Much of our time was spent in the very fine environs of
Caesar's Windsor casino. Nero's in the casino was a solid token of the "casino steakhouse" type, a B+ for food (very nice oysters, a few dry aged steak options, extensive wine list with, in this case, several Canadian options) and A+ for friendly service and convenience to the gaming tables. In addition, as verified twice during this stay, the nachos served in the sports wagering lounge of Caesar's Windsor are extremely satisfying when taken with a liter or two of Molson Canadian.
I come not, however, to praise Caesar's corporate dining experience, nor to bury it. Instead, I want to report on a couple of nice finds we made outside the casino, wandering in a relatively tight circle around downtown and east to Walkerville (the environs of the
Hiram Walker Distillery).
Thursday night, looking through the various fliers in the lobby of the hotel, I found an ad for
Biscuits & Gravy, a little bit of the American South in Canadia. Well, they had me at hello, and we were there Friday morning as their first guests of the day. Charming setting with dozens of framed enlargements of old Windsor postcards and checked linen on the tables. The menu includes some basics (like the eponymous B&G), as well as a fairly predominate New Orleans angle. Our order consisted of the aforementioned B&G (by me) and a novel variation on eggs Benedict involving house-made sausage patties on a split buttermilk biscuit (by Mrs. JiLS). Learning that there would be a 20+ minute delay in getting the latter order done, we ordered a plate of beignets with sliced apples to tide us over. Honoring Canadian tradition, our hostess presented the beignets as the "Doughnut Course," and we dove in. These were very good, in the way fried dough usually is, but were not traditional beignets (assuming that by "traditional beignets," you mean the way they serve them at Cafe du Monde, which I do assume). First, they were smaller and more cylindrical than the CdM "pillow" shape. More importantly, they came with just a light dusting of powdered sugar, which had some cinnamon mixed in. This contrasted favorably (IMHO) with the powdered sugar avalanche that gets poured over the beignets at CdM in New Orleans. B&G presented a much tidier, less overtly indulgent and, dare I say,
rational approach to sweetening the beignets. (So Canadian. Just like the bit with the cheaper health care and the costlier whiskey tax.) So, very fine beignets, and then the main courses come, and the joy continues. My biscuits and gravy is a very fine example, with square biscuits (admittedly the more efficient way of cutting biscuits, in a shape that fills the plane with no waste, but not as charming as round cuts), topped with a really very fine sausage gravy, made with the house sausage and a very healthy shot of sage. They definitely got the basics right on this dish, and I was very happy with it. (Fun note: TV in the dining room by coincidence was showing Alton Brown touring Georgia diners, including a lengthy dissertation on biscuit making; the biscuits we were served could have been pulled right from that televised oven). The Benedict also benefited from the same house-made sausage and fresh biscuit, as well as expertly poached eggs. Combined with CdM chicory coffee (offered only as cafe au lait) and decent enough "regular" coffee, we were very well satisfied when we left Biscuits & Gravy.
Saturday morning, we walked east from downtown along Wyandotte Street into Walkerville, which meant we walked through about two miles of non-stop Lebanese groceries, cafes, restaurants, etc. An extremely impressive assemblage, of which we didn't take advantage, but it was a definite "wow" factor. We ate breakfast at a perfectly serviceable spot, the Velvet Restaurant (really a diner) on Wyandotte Street, giving me a chance to sample Pea Meal bacon for the first time and generally a good experience with the interested and friendly staff. Home fries, which I upgraded to include onions, were simply perfect ... perfectly crisp, perfectly flavorful, and perfectly floating in grease. Good, post-night at the casino cure-all grease. Good meal to walk to and from on a crisp, cold Canadian morning.
Saturday night, we made an ill-fated attempt to try a wood-fired pizza place we saw during our morning walk on Wyandotte, but found them packed like they were selling the best pizza in (North) America, or something, and so we headed back downtown. For those not yet in the know, food and drink in downtown Windsor is largely dominated by places catering to the 19 to 21 year-old demographic crossing over from Michigan to get legally fit-shaced drunk, as well as to the fans of "adult entertainment." I somehow could not convince Mrs. JiLS on Thursday night to try the American Thanksgiving dinner at
Cheetah's. I don't know what her problem was, although helping me deal with it, the nachos and pitcher of Canadian at Caesar's were some consolation.
In any event, we found a very pleasant exception to the downtown Windsor rule in
La Guardia, a tiny, charming little hole in the wall that, among other excellences, served me the finest spaghetti carbonara I've enjoyed since I first tried it in Rome in 1985. La Guardia combined a cozy, warm room with excellent service, simple but delicious food preparations, as well as very pleasant live music (singer accompanying himself on guitar, doing a James Taylor imitation that was perfectly modulated). Reading back through that paragraph, I see it might not seem very convincing, but La Guardia is greater than the sum of its parts. We, along with the room full of families and older couples and groups of friends/regulars filling the place gave it a special feel that should be experienced to be appreciated. I know we will go back.
Biscuits & Gravy322 Pelissier
Windsor, ON, Canada
(519) 971-0744
Velvet Restaurant1646 Wyandotte Street East
Windsor, ON N8Y 1C
(519) 256-9029
La Guardia59 Pitt St. E.
Windsor, Ontario, Canada
(519) 524-2438
And, hypothetically, for academic interest only:
Cheetah's86 Chatham Street West
Windsor, Ontario
N9A 5M6
(519)252-1106
JiLS