Following a
stop-over in Seattle, I recently visited Portland for the first time. My goals were to spend time with an old friend, bike and eat--all of which I did with gusto and, I think, reasonable success.
DAY 0.5My first stop was late-night snacks at
Biwa. I loved the small plates here. We ordered kimchi, the “barbarian-style” pickled mackerel, the grilled shiitake mushrooms and the ramen with corn. Biwa had sake specials in honor of International Sake Day, so we also ordered some Kasumi Tsuru Kimoto Extra Dry, which was ideal for our food. My favorite dishes were the pucker-perfect mackerel and soothing shiitakes.
Before we ordered, the server explained that the ramen broth recently changed. Biwa now offers only a single broth, which we were told is like a combination of shoyu and chicken. I found it odd and not especially tasty.
The corn was worth adding to our ramen if just for the bold line item on our bill.
DAY 1.5A late night resulted in a late morning, but before we set out, I had a cuppa from my friends’ impressive collection of
Jasmine Pearl teas.
My favorites from the Portland-based tea merchant were the Bombay Breakfast, a black tea with traces of cardamom and ginger, and the Golden Monkey, another sweeter black tea.
My hosts in Portland live on Mississippi Avenue, a hip and happening thoroughfare northeast of downtown resplendent with good to excellent food. We walked the main section of Mississippi on my first morning in Portland. My friend suggested
The Big Egg for breakfast.
The food here made me seriously reconsider my long-standing aversion to having my first meal of the day outside my home. It reminded me that cooking eggs takes skill that most of the brunch places I’ve visited in my life do not have. I ordered a scramble with Fontina and finely diced red potatoes and bacon. It doesn’t sound special, but all of the ingredients were top-notch and the eggs incredibly voluminous and silky.
I also had some of the tomato in my friend’s breakfast sandwich.
The best tomatoes I’ve had this year were on this trip to Portland, The Big Egg’s and harvest from my hosts’ garden included.
From The Big Egg, we continued down Mississippi. The range of food options made me giddy.
Moxie Rx, a “roadside juice bar and cafe,” was closed for vacation, but we stopped to admire the green performance space at the back of their lot and their child-sized picnic tables.
Next, we visited
Pistils Nursery, a marvelous source for all kinds of plant life, chickens and feed.
The Meadow, a salt, chocolate and wine shop, was our next stop. With probably somewhere near 150 specimens to sample, I had never seen such an extensive collection of salt.
As we were browsing, we got some guidance from a gentleman working in the store. He then stepped out, but I mentioned to the woman at the register that The Meadow reminded me of a salt expert I follow on Twiitter,
@selmelier. She informed me that the man who had helped us was none other than Mark Bitterman himself, and that we were in his shop! That coincidence made my morning. I purchased a small bottle of the most unusual salt I tasted: Kala Namak, a high-mineral, pungent pink salt.
Recently, Fox & Obel’s chocolate selection has grown to impressive proportions, but it’s got nothing on the wall of chocolate at The Meadow. I picked up a selection of the house salted chocolates but also bars from local chocolate makers
Xocolatl de Davíd (the pecan-nougat-bacon caramel bar) and
Sahagún (which recently closed its retail shop to focus on wholesale; I got a dark chocolate bar with dried corn kernels). And I bought two novelty chocolates from outside Portland, including a
ramen noodle and (separate)
absinthe bar.
Unsurprising, we were parched after our visit to The Meadow and stopped at taqueria
Por que No for drinks. My friend recommended the Horchata Borracha, which was basically a tall glass of undiluted rum disguised as horchata. He said my drink was unusually strong; I couldn’t detect any rice or almond or even the cinnamon I could see sprinkled on top. It got better as the ice melted. Friend had an agua de jamaica. In contrast to its regal, inky hue, this drink was very refreshing with a subtle sweetness.
Not quite
borrachos, next my friend and I got on our bikes to visit one of his old hang-outs, Crema Café in southeast Portland. I only tasted the raspberry frosting of his lemon-poppy seed cupcake. I could discern the raspberry, but the consistency of the frosting was lighter than I usually prefer.
The Earthquake cookie was a simple and satisfying dark chocolate-powdered sugar confection.
After Crema, we got on our bikes to visit
Movie Madness, which has got to be one of the best video stores in existence. I was only there for a few minutes, but my guess is that it would be a reliable place from which to borrow all manner of
foodie films.
Heralded by a billboard, my friend and I then spent a few minutes checking out the new food cart pod near Movie Madness.
Lardo looked especially promising, but we didn’t have time to eat. Happy hour called.
Fans of their infused whiskeys, friends and I biked north to
Beulahland, a really comfortable, spacious dive with the extra draw of a full case of pies.
Beulahland is also worth visiting to spy the handsome Art Deco building occupied by Coca-Cola across the street.
We lingered at happy hour, and then biked to Pok Pok for dinner. At around 7:00pm, we were quoted a wait of two and a half hours. We were desperately hungry for Thai and considered getting our dinner to go, but only a fraction of the menu is available for pick-up. After some brainstorming, we decided to order appetizers to eat across the street and then check again on the wait for a table. The lot across the way was a new food cart pod in the works, chained off and pitch-black, but we weren’t discouraged. We feasted on our
kai yaang and papaya salad on a newly-built picnic table by bike and cell phone lights. Even with the blur, I think smiles are visible.
A lot of people must have been deterred by the quoted waits because our table was ready as soon as we finished our snack, about 40 minutes after we put in our name. To start, the mussel fritter was extremely greasy, the low point of our meal and probably all of my eating in Portland.
I’ve already
raved about the Cha Ca La Vong.
Muu paa kham waan--boar collar meat rubbed with garlic, coriander root and black pepper, glazed with soy and sugar, grilled over charcoal and served with chilled mustard greens and a spicy chili-lime-garlic sauce--was very excellent also, especially with heavy use of the chili-lime sauce.
We also had at Pok Pok a tamarind drinking vinegar and cocktails, but I don’t remember the specifics. A winding, waterfront bike ride followed, which left me too tired for dessert at
Pix Pâtisserie, where we stopped on the way home.
DAY 2.5The next day, we got an even later start and had our first meal of the day at
Kenny & Zuke’s. I imagined crowds given the reputation of this place, so I was surprised that we were able to walk in and choose a table and eat among mostly--it seemed--locals. The spicing of the pastrami was almost too delicate for me, and I prefer much fattier deli meat in general, but I enjoyed our lunch. I hoped maybe to meet and thank extramsg but no luck.
After Kenny & Zuke’s, we took a walk and happened on
Pudding on the Rice, a bright and cheery rice pudding and crêpe bar. I could only taste cinnamon in the pumpkin pudding, but it made me want to experiment with rice pudding varieties at home. Unfortunately, this place stunk of blue cheese from crêpes.
Portland State University (PSU) Farmers Market was next. We gorged on local walnuts and hazelnuts, last-day white peaches and blueberries, huckleberry jam, cheese, ciders, cookies and charcuterie. My favorite snacks were
Chop’s venison pate and, as I’ve noted already, Two Tarts’
basil macarons.
I was also delighted to come across the
Alma Chocolate stall, where I bought a jar of habanero caramel sauce, which I want to eat straight from the jar and maybe also use in my
oatmeal.
We matched aubergines before we left the market.
Next, we rode back up to Mississippi Ave. to meet a friend for drinks with a pit stop along the way for jerk chicken, red beans and rice at
Caribbean Kookpot. The rice was extremely mushy, but the chicken was well-seasoned and off-set nicely by the beans. And I think the generous helping cost only $5.
Ironically, drinks that followed at
Amnesia Brewing were not memorable. But I may have been in a pastrami-rice pudding-cookie-jerk chicken daze. I recall the place having neighborhood charm.
Next, we got on our bikes and headed north to try the steamed burgers at
Brown Chicken Brown Cow. (Labeling meals “breakfast,” “lunch” or “dinner” was basically pointless on this trip.)
It was a short ride from Amnesia to Brown Chicken Brown Cow, and I can’t remember names of the streets we took, but the route culminated in an exhilarating downhill followed by a winding, steady climb that we took at a brisk clip. The hill wasn’t steep enough to get out of the saddle but rose enough to make my legs work and stimulate my appetite. Steamed cheeseburgers and a storybook sunset greeted us at the summit.
The light color of the steamed patty made me think it might be bland, but the herbs contained therein made it surprisingly flavorful, especially with the red, mildly spicy, also herbaceous condiment available at the counter. Soft and somewhat slimy, the steamed burger reminded me of a nuked veggie burger, but the super fresh lettuce, ripe tomato, crunchy red onion and buttered and toasted bun basically remedied the texture. The steamed egg, however, which I wanted to be slippery, was overcooked and didn’t spread well. Both my friends were impressed with the supposedly extra sharp cheddar melted on the burgers, but I almost missed the cheese on mine--not sure why.
I’m happy we tried Brown Chicken Brown Cow, but I much prefer the aroma, texture and taste of burgers cooked by more common means. If I’m ever in central Connecticut, I might swing by
Ted’s. Maybe I’d be happier with a thicker steamed burger.
In the same food cart pod, we also had sweet corn ice cream from
Scoop. It wasn’t the smoothest ice cream I’ve ever had, and I would have preferred more pronounced corn, but it was a fine prelude to our next stop:
Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty. I had spied the ice cream list at this place the first morning I walked Mississippi Ave., but the restaurant was closed then. We ordered the Salted Caramel, Malted Milk Ball and Cherry Noyaux, which were all very good. My favorite was the Salted Caramel, which was unabashedly salty. The consistency of the ice cream overall seemed more airy, like gelato, which meant that it was easy to eat a lot of it.
I thought I was lucky to live two blocks from
Black Dog Gelato in Chicago. It seemed like there were places like Black Dog all over Portland.
During conversation over ice cream outside Fifty-Fifty, one of my friends mentioned Jan Švankmajer’s films
Food and
Conspirators of Pleasure, neither of which I had seen. It was about time for a break from eating and drinking, so we walked down the street to a video store and rented the DVD with both movies. One day when I start an LTH thread on food furniture, I will reference
Video Verite’s crab chairs and table.
After our movie break, we made our way over to
Clyde Common for cocktails. I had the Barrel-Aged Negroni--Beefeater gin, Cinzano Rosso vermouth, Campari, aged for two months in a Tuthilltown whiskey barrel and finished with orange peel--which I enjoyed despite and eventually because of the assertive orange. We had some other cocktails and amari, but I can’t remember the details. My friends also ordered snacks--figs with ricotta salata, mint and peach-thyme syrup and the fries with harissa and crème fraîche. I skipped the figs, but the fries were crispy if otherwise generic. Harissa with crème fraîche is my new favorite dipping sauce.
I would return to Clyde Common for $5 happy hour cocktails, but we had no interaction with the bartender, and I didn’t love the space. I found the bar too sprawling, and I generally don’t care for high ceilings in restaurants or bars.
My taste buds were shot after Clyde Common. I swore I would never eat or drink again, but then we danced to Bollywood techno-punk for three hours, and I regained my sense of taste and was ready for another meal. We got to
Montage at about 2:30am, and the place was packed. This was one of the most diverse scenes, with or without food, I’ve ever come upon. Boisterous hipsters, muscle t-shirts, suits, promsters, tourists and off-duty burlesque dancers shared the space and chowed on the restaurant’s eclectic fare. Add our waitress, who in appearance and demeanor seemed straight out of a Toulouse-Lautrec painting, and I felt like Alice in Wonderland in the most awesome way.
We ate frog legs, hush puppies, jambalaya and butter cake--all of which were hearty, satisfying and priced very reasonably. I wrongly assumed this would be mediocre drinking food. The only reason I didn’t finish my meal was so that I could get a foil sculpture to take home. During the course of our visit, the kitchen sent out to different tables a menagerie of packaged leftovers. I was happy with my jambalaya snail.
Montage (and maybe everywhere in Portland?) stopped serving alcohol at possibly 1:00am, so I didn’t get to try any of their cocktails.
DAY 3.0On my last day in Portland, I only had time for one meal. We set out for
Tasty n Sons, but we changed plans as soon as we spotted a line outside.
J & M Cafe in Lower Burnside is one of my friend’s favorite brunch spots, and I’m glad we ended up there. It seemed much more relaxed and spacious than other places around town. I liked sitting at the counter, where we had a view of a neat cabinet refrigerator.
My friend and I both ordered the special of three scrambled eggs with Cypress Grove goat cheese, leeks, red peppers, fresh oregano, chanterelles and home fries, which was as pretty and salubrious as it sounded. The food reminded me somewhat of
Birchwood Kitchen, but the cooking at K&M was more sophisticated in a more diner-like setting.
Friend liked his side of thick, crispy bacon, and the scrapple with a very thin maple glaze was just the funk I needed to round out my late breakfast and first visit to Portland.
I read a lot about bikes and cities and therefore knew of Portland’s infrastructure, but I was unprepared for the implications of the biking culture for eating. First, I was hungry more often because I biked everywhere. And there are hills. Bike lanes and then plentiful and secure bike parking made getting in and out of restaurants extremely easy. Food carts were even more accessible, being situated outside and grouped in pods. The seemingly endless variety of inexpensive food and visible plans for new pods only further motivated me to get out and bike and eat. Portland is a glorious city, and my heart (if not also my belly) was heavy to leave.
Biwa215 SE. 9th Ave.
Portland, OR 97214
503-239-8830
The Big Egg Mississippi Marketplace Food Cart Pod
4233 N. Mississippi Ave. (at Skidmore)
Portland, OR 97227
The Meadow3731 N. Mississippi Avenue
Portland, OR 97227
503-288-4633
¿Por qué No?3524 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
503-467-4149
Crema2728 SE. Ankeny St.
Portland, OR 97214-1847
503-234-0206
Movie Madness4320 SE. Belmont St.
Portland, OR 97215
503-234-4363
Beulahland118 NE. 28th Ave.
Portland, OR 97232-3146
503-235-2794
Pok Pok3226 SE. Division St.
Portland, OR 97202
503-232-1387
Kenny and Zuke’s1038 SW. Stark St.
Portland, OR 97205
503-222-3354
Pudding on the Rice1503 SW. Park Ave.
Portland, OR 97201
503-427-1121
Portland State University Farmers MarketSouth Park Blocks between SW Hall & SW Montgomery
Portland, OR
Caribbean Kookpot N. Mississippi Ave. & N. Fremont St.
Portland, OR 97227
Amnesia Brewing
832 N. Beech St.
Portland, OR 97227
503-281-7708
Brown Chicken Brown CowNorth Station Food Cart Pod
2730 N. Killingsworth St.
Portland, OR 97217
Scoop
North Station Food Cart Pod
2730 N. Killingsworth St.
Portland, OR 97217
503-235-8270
Lovely’s Fifty-Fifty4039 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
503-281-4060
Video Verite3956 N. Mississippi Ave.
Portland, OR 97227
503-445-9902
Clyde Common1014 SW Stark St
Portland, OR 97205
503-228-3333
Montage301 SE. Morrison
Portland, OR 97214
503-234-1324
J & M Cafe
537 SE. Ash St.
Portland, OR 97214
503-230-0463