This visit to Detroit we spent quite a bit of time on Michigan Avenue, from the city of Dearborn to the heart of downtown Detroit. Here are a few of the highlights, heading from west to east.
Sweet Willie wrote:For a simple burger bar that produces really really good burgers, try Miller's Bar in Dearborn,
http://www.millersbar.com
Miller's almost always comes up in discussions of Detroit's best burgers and it's found in a few national lists too (#8 according to
Alan Richman in GQ). Pigmon and I were in Detroit with no intention of eating burgers but when our server at Buddy's Pizza mentioned that Miller's was just down the street we really had no choice. Miller's is a no-nonsense (though friendly) bar with a no-nonsense menu: hamburgers, cheeseburgers, fries and onion rings. This is the epitome of a no-nonsense burger, served in no-nonsense fashion.
Good meat and lots of it, undistinguished bun and barely any garnishes, not even grilled onions. If you need onion, a couple raw slices will be served on another sheet of waxed paper. Luckily the burger stands on its own. You usually don't see burgers this thick cooked on a griddle but that's the way they've been doing it for 60-some years. Ordered medium rare, it came that way (that's cheese-n-blood oozing out). Probably not everyone's idea of a perfect burger but I liked it just fine.
Sweet Willie wrote:Buddy's pizza is Sicilian style, very light airy crust with a dab of sauce and even less cheese. I ask for a bit of extra sauce, very good pizza.
http://www.buddyspizza.com
From what I understand Buddy's pretty much defines Detroit-style square pizza. Out of convenience we visited the branch on Michigan Avenue in Dearborn instead of the preferable-by-most-accounts original on Conant. We kept it simple and ordered half a pepperoni pie.
To put it in Chicago terms, Buddy's is sort of a cross between deep dish and bakery sheet pizza. The crust must be loaded with oil yet it has a surprisingly light, almost fluffy, texture. As the menu states, "Pepperoni is placed under the cheese to enhance flavor and prevent charring." Cheese seems to be a standard domestic mozzarella, added uniformly from edge to edge and browned nicely. Sauce, applied as a central blob, tends toward the sweet end of the spectrum.
One aspect I liked a lot was the "burned edge" a la Burt.
Next time it's gonna be a Coney dog pizza for sure!
Sweet Willie wrote:For a great very thin crust pizza try Tomatoes Apizza (yes that is spelled correctly)
http://www.tomatoesapizza.com/there are two locations in the Farmington Hills area, apparently the owner came from one of the New Haven CT pizza places.
Tomatoes Apizza isn't anywhere close to Michigan Avenue but I figured I might as well include it here. Alan Richman, in his
GQ pizza article, ranks Tomatoes the 21st best pizza in America (Buddy's is number 15). There are two Tomatoes (same owner) and unfortunately we went to the one on Halsted with a conventional oven (the one on 14 Mile uses coal). I thought it a pleasant enough pizza but couldn't understand its ranking as one of the country's best. The crust, in particular, lacked any real character.
Detroit takes its ham seriously. I had wanted to visit Ham Heaven downtown but it was torn down shortly before my first visit to Detroit. Mike's Famous Ham Place seemed like a good alternative, and was actually recommended by the bartender at Miller's. Unfortunately it was closed for the holiday weekend.
Continuing down Michigan it's impossible to miss the imposing ruins of Michigan Central Station. See it soon; the city hopes to demolish the building in the very near future.
Slows Bar-B-Q is only a block or two east but we didn't stop. There's more information
here and
here.
A few more blocks toward downtown is Tiger Stadium, or rather what's left of it.
Arriving downtown we got to admire Michael Symon's Roast in the renovated Book-Cadillac Hotel. The restaurant wasn't yet open but the rotisserie used for the "beast of the day" looks very cool.
Miller's Bar
23700 Michigan Av
Dearborn MI
313-565-2577
http://www.millersbar.comBuddy's Pizza
22148 Michigan Av
Dearborn MI
313-562-5900
Buddy's Pizza (original location)
17125 Conant
Detroit MI
313-892-9001
Tomatoes Apizza
24369 Halsted Rd
Farmington Hills MI
248-888-4888
Tomatoes Apizza (coal oven)
29275 14 Mile Rd
Farmington Hills MI
248-855-3555
Mike's Famous Ham Place
3700 Michigan Av
Detroit MI
313-894-6922
Michigan Central Station (closed)
Vernor Hwy just south of Michigan Av
Detroit MI
Slows Bar-B-Q
2138 Michigan Av
Detroit MI
313-962-9828
http://www.slowsbarbq.com/Tiger Stadium (closed)
Michigan Av & Trumbull St
Detroit MI
Michael Symon's Roast
in Westin Book-Cadillac
Michigan Av & Washington Blvd
Detroit MI
http://roastdetroit.com/