I visited Puerto Vallarta in 2002 and had an incredible time, and ate amazing food. I don't remember any restaurant names (!!) except for one called Las Cazuelas (or perhaps La Cazuela). This was an upscale, causal restaurant that particularly impressed my fiend and I.

Darren72 wrote:I visited Puerto Vallarta in 2002 and had an incredible time, and ate amazing food. I don't remember any restaurant names (!!) except for one called Las Cazuelas (or perhaps La Cazuela). This was an upscale, causal restaurant that particularly impressed my fiend and I.

Darren, I lamented about Las Cazuelas here. It was easily my favorite restaurant in PV. I recall an earthy lamb dish I enjoyed there on one visit, cooked in an earthenware pot with a beautiful masa crust, and which might have been the best Mexican food I ever tasted. On subsequent visits to PV, I tried to return only to find that the phones were not answered and the doors closed. After several inquiries, I learned through a local who was familiar with the restaurant that apparently the chef/owner had been hit by a car, thus forcing the restaurant's closure. He also told me that there were rumors that it would reopen but that it had not. Nonetheless, I will continue to investigate a possible reincarnation on future trips to PV.

Thanks, BR. That is terrible news.

As I was posting this, I thought to myself "You should check that this place is still open and provide contact information, and also check that it hadn't been mentioned yet." But laziness won the day.

First of all, to everyone here who has contributed--especially stevez--many, many thanks. The Lovely Dining Companion and I are venturing PV-ward the day after Thanksgiving for 10 days and are eagerly anticipating--nay, drooling--over feasts to come. (No, we won't stay in town the entire time.)

However, at the risk of sounding like a complete doofus, I have seen conflicting advice from sources I trust. Some say to avoid tap water everywhere, hotels included. We'll be staying at the Villa Premier and I have a hard time swallowing (sorry!) that advice. I'm thinking we shouldn't drink tap water (including drinks, ice cubes etc.) from street vendors but not even the hotel?!

Another source says to avoid all street vendors period, which strikes me as just this side of idiotic. Common sense would seem to be the order of the day and avoiding all street vendors is overkill. And yet I wonder: I remember making one tiny slip in Cairo that put me out of commission for days and what did me in there was washed lettuce in a "nice" tourist-oriented restaurant. So: what about lettuce or other veggies on food? I'm thinking no to street vendor veggies but yes to restaurants. Or am I? I'm SO tsumisht!

So I post figuring that I'll look naive in this post, but I'll get good advice. Right?

The water in PV is generally fine to drink in hotels, restaurants, etc. I've never had a problem eating anything from street vendors although I generally follow three rules:

1. If the locals are avoiding a particular street vendor in favor of another, I do as well.
2. I avoid eating lettuce or other veggies that don't require peeling from street vendors.
3. I don't drink non-bottled beverages from street vendors (including the very tempting pulque vendors on the Malacon).

Those three rules have kept me well fed and "revenge free" in all my visits to PV. Enjoy!

I don't think you look naive at all, because the rules are different everywhere, even within a country. I've made several trips to Mexico and a few to PVR. I (along with three friends) got food poisoning on our last trip . . . first time in my life in fact that I've had food poisoning and it was just awful. I don't think I left my house for 48 hours and could barely move. The good news is that a few of my friends did not get food poisoning and we were able to identify the ONE meal that we did not all share - a fast food restaurant (a US-based one at that) at the PV airport where the sick ones all got sodas with ice and the healthy ones did not eat or drink anything.

48 hours after those drinks, we were dropping one by one (luckily at our own homes in the Chicago area).

Amazingly I ate from many a street vendor and enjoyed plenty of onions and cilantro and salsas (onions/cilantro, etc. are probably dangerous but I took the risk). And I used tap water at the hotel to brush my teeth. In general, I agree with Steve about the hotels (but check with your hotel to make sure), but I would now avoid ice where possible because I'm pretty certain that was the cause of my food poisoning.

BR wrote:Amazingly I ate from many a street vendor and enjoyed plenty of onions and cilantro and salsas (onions/cilantro, etc. are probably dangerous but I took the risk). And I used tap water at the hotel to brush my teeth. In general, I agree with Steve about the hotels (but check with your hotel to make sure), but I would now avoid ice where possible because I'm pretty certain that was the cause of my food poisoning.

Come to think of it, I also freely ate onions and cilantro on many a street taco in violation of my rule #2. I never had a problem.

Just returned from a week in PV late last night. I won't have the pics and write-up done for a few days but for anyone headed out shortly, I did want to post a couple of quick notes:

The economy is really affecting many places. A lot of closed places and many empty storefronts, although an awful lot of construction is going on as well. We walked in everywhere and although we made a couple of reservations, we never needed one.

Tino's is no longer in El Pitillal. That branch has now moved to the far north end of the Malecon, on the second floor of a large building. Since we never visited the other branch we have nothing to compare it to, but the overall impression was "fair to middling." Based on everyone's reports, we were very excited to go and disappointed at what we got. Service was very good and people very welcoming (though that was pretty much true everywhere we went) but the food just didn't measure up.

Found two great little holes in the wall, Tutifruti and Dona Raquel!

Artisan Bakery, sorry to say, is closed.

Cueto's: Absolutely blew us away. By far our best meal (and we ate at Trio and Cafe des Artistes). Out of the way? Yes. Worth a special visit? Without the shadow of a doubt.

And with that, I close for now. Much more to come, including pics.

Gypsy Boy,

Can't wait to read your full review as we will be there in a few weeks over New Years with the inestimable Dr. Wiv. Thanks for the info.

The Lovely Dining Companion and I returned recently from our first trip to Puerto Vallarta. Fascinating time and, though I think I’ve memorized the street map of the city because we spent so many hours walking back, forth, up ,down, and sideways, there somehow wasn’t time even in the week to visit every place on our list. That said, we ate well: most of our meals were good and a fair number were excellent. I’ll try to keep my descriptions short(ish). But I should note right up front that one place colored our view of all the preceded and followed. Cueto’s was extraordinary. So much so that it made me rethink for the umpteenth time just what it is that sets one experience apart from another.


LOS XITOMATES
We had arrived in town only a few hours earlier and were wandering around, acclimating to 90°and humidity. As we walked down a side street, Los Xitomates appeared before us. We were the first customers of the evening (it was a Friday at 6pm--early, but we were famished). As the evening wore on, a fairly small number of customers joined us but this was our first indication of how hard the American economy has hit Vallarta's economy. The space is casual yet it seemed right to be a touch overdressed (long slacks, no tee shirt). To say we received plenty of attention would be an understatement. Servers, chefs, kitchen staff, owners, you name ‘em, they stopped by. In the event, the food was excellent.
This was our second favorite meal of the week, ahead of even Trio and Café des Artistes. Why? Because of the entire experience. Not only was the food was excellent, just as important, we enjoyed being there. From the arrival of the four salsas (green serrano, red jalapeno, dark chipotle, and pickled onions with habanero) with tortilla “sticks” (just about literally sticks, with sesame seeds in the dough!) to the entrees (LDC had salmon with a poblano sauce and I had a mahi-mahi with a green chili sauce—I’ve forgotten now what the mahi-mahi was the stand-in for), everything was delicious. The salsas each managed multiple layers of flavor while all coming across as fresh and clean. The staff was surprised that I didn't find the pickled onion/habanero combo too hot and seemed to get a kick out of watching a turista chow down on it. Every plate set before us was quite attractive and the sauces for the entrees complemented as well as intrigued on their own. Of all the pictures I am sorry not to have, these are the ones I miss most. If were to return to one place in PV on our next visit (in addition to Cueto's), this would be it, hands down.
The house guitarist—a genial (and voluble) man with 25 CDs over a 43-year career—was not only highly talented but a genuine pleasure to talk with. The menu features creative takes on classics and isn’t strictly limited to Mexican. It also isn’t inexpensive (I didn’t write down the prices but, if memory serves, it was just a notch below Trio and Café des Artistes). We really enjoyed our introduction to dinner in PV and would happily return.

[very sadly, no pics]

Los Xitomates
Morelos 601, Centro
(322) 222-9434


TUTIFRUTI
It’s in a garage. You can see the plastic tables and chairs in my picture. Behind the curtain is someone’s very large pickup truck. The pictures don’t show the owner’s very friendly, playful, two little terriers. The owner, we think, is a grandmotherly woman, all alone (at least when we were there for breakfast). She speaks no English and she does things at her own pace, which isn't slow but unhurried. She’s certainly a sweet enough person and we enjoyed our uncomplicated breakfast. You can tell from the menu that there isn't a wide selection. Still, I'm very glad we ate here. Don’t go if you’re in a rush. We had huevos con jamon and huevos con machaca; LDC had a licuado and I had coffee. The food was fine; nothing extraordinary except that it was just like your grandmother (or abuela) made it for you. And that alone makes it worth the trip--not to mention that breakfast couldn't have been much over $5, if that. She patted LDC on the head and wouldn’t let us go until she had brought out homemade butter cookies and stuck them in a baggie for us to take. Sweet woman, sweet gesture. We’d happily return for whatever this Mexican version of gemütlichkeit is.


Tutifruti--the dining room


Tutifruti--the menu

Tutifruti
Calle Allende 200, between Av. Juaréz and Av. Guadalupe Sánchez,
Centro, Puerto Vallarta
322/222-1068


TRIO
We were eager to like this, especially after reading santander’s paean above. The room on the ground floor is old, atmospheric, and lovely. The service was impeccable. We started with an appetizer that was, at least in theory, exactly what santander had: cilantro-ginger marinated calamari with avocado and smoked tomato & jalapeño salsa. Ours resembled a stew more than anything else and though it was good, it was nowhere near the “best squid on earth.” The avocado never worked and the salsa, while it worked, didn’t seem precisely right. But the entrees made up a lot of the lost ground: we each had snapper: LDC had it roasted with garlic and served with shrimp on a zucchini salad, accompanied by a spicy tomato salsa and artichokes. Mine was a generous portion of pan-roasted filet with sauerkraut, white pepper sauce, and glazed grapes. It sounds a bit odd, I'll grant you, but the dish really worked. Most of the sourness was washed out of the kraut and the white pepper sauce was mild but redolent of white pepper. The sweetness of the grapes...just right! These dishes both approached excellent but we left disappointed.
Somehow, the evening added up to less than the sum of the parts. What was missing? The soul, I guess. I can’t point to any misstep or error. I enjoyed my food and would have been very happy with it had it cost even twice as much. But in the end, it left us pleased but not thrilled, happy but not ecstatic. The food was one of our best meals and the service was nearly impeccable, but no one ever came across as particularly friendly or warm. Given the competition for diners, we were a little surprised. All in all, I’d be willing to go again and see if the experience changed; I'd just go with slightly altered expectations.


Trio calamari app


Trio seabass with sauerkraut, white pepper sauce, and glazed grapes


Trio seabass with zucchini


Trio dessert chile crestiano (I've e-mailed the restaurant for more information. I'm not certain of the name: it was a roasted poblano dipped in chocolate, stuffed with a fruit and ? mixture.... Intriguing to say the least.)

Trio
Guerrero 264, Centro
Puerto Vallarta, México
(322) 222 2196
http://www.triopv.com/menu.php


CAFÉ DES ARTISTES
I challenge anyone not to be awed by the outdoor/indoor garden here. A multi-level series of tables are set on small terraces set among an almost jungle-like setting under fifty-foot (and higher) trees, ferns, etc. Dark, atmospheric, beautiful. A setting to die for. Once again, top-notch service. And once again, mostly excellent food.
Before I get back to the food, let me emphasize the darkness. Servers all carried powerful, small flashlights and the menu was, truly, difficult to read. Great atmosphere, a bit impractical at the outset, though. There is also, almost hidden by the foliage, a "waterfall" (in quotes because it is constructed, not natural) and the sound of water was soothing throughout the evening.
We each chose the chef’s tasting, a series of three choices. In the event, we both chose the same appetizer: cream of smoked tomato and chipotle soup, with cheese and mushrooms custard and fresh cream. We agreed on the soup: one of the best bowls of anything either of us have had in a long, long time. LDC’s entrée was grilled salmon “zarandeado,” mixed vegetables and mushroom pickles, mashed potato with chiles toreados. I went with the grilled beef tenderloin “petals” (no, even after the presentation, I don’t know what that means) with a sauce of camembert cheese and chipotle chilis, leek and a tomato. I will complain that my tenderloin was not a good cut. Chewier than tenderloin ought to be. But the sauce was excellent and the presentation impressive: the "petals" rested on a slightly charred disc of potatoes, propped up by a roasted onion (cebollito variety), vegetable terrine/napoleon and roasted tomato. (Not sure where it goes, but if you're going to give me bread, for god's sake make it good bread. The bread here was very nearly embarrassing. Fresh but remarkably unremarkable, especially for a restaurant of this caliber and with these aspirations.)
For dessert, LDC went with the “Big Dancer” Café des Artistes mango and maracuya mousse with raspberry sauce and I chose the lychee and orange crème brulee. Both desserts were good, though I think each of us favored our own. And I should note that I am not ordinarily a creme brulee person, but this was quite exceptional. As enjoyable as the meal was—and as stunning a deal given the price ($86, including a glass of wine, tax, tip...everything)—we’d happily return. Indeed, the chef (Thierry Blouet) is a true master of sauces and understatement. We really did enjoy our food.
But once again, something was missing. No real human connection, no warmth, no...soul. Ultimately, for the high quality of the food and service, a disappointment. A word to the wise for those eating indoors: watch out. There was a private party in the bar and it was LOUD. Not that the party intruded on the outdoors, but we had to wonder what effect it had on those dining indoors.


des Artistes setting


des Artistes smoked tomato/chipotle soup


des Artistes salmon “zarandeado”


des Artistes tenderloin petals


des Artistes Big Dancer


des Artistes lychee/orange creme brulee

Café des Artistes
Guadalupe Sánchez 740, Centro
Puerto Vallarta, México
(322) 222-3228
http://cafedesartistes.com/cda/menu-eng.pdf


EL ARRAYAN
This place was high on our list but, sadly, by the time we made it, something had caught up with LDC’s tummy. So she had to content herself with picking at our two appetizers and some chicken soup. The apps were intriguing: jamaica flower (aka hibiscus) quesadillas (the flowers sauteed with asadero cheese and served in corn tortillas) and plantain empanadas filled with black beans and asadero cheese. We were served several sauces: the server recommended the dark chipotle salsa (though, in the event, it was much thicker than a salsa) with the empanadas. A superb match. I went with the chile en nogada, described upthread by David Hammond. It is served cold. As in cold, not room temperature. This is a busy, popular place and it’s clear why. (Speaking of which, the outside world intrudes even here. Hand sanitizers on every table--and, indeed, we saw them often in town as well.) The menu (and the room) is homey and offers some great choices. Our server, though busy, took the time to talk with us a bit and it helped settle us in, in a way never quite felt at home at either Trio or Cafe de Artistes. We found the price quite reasonable ($44, including tip). Contrary to David H’s experience, we had excellent and attentive service. I even tried to interest LDC in the chapulines, based on David’s recommendation, but couldn't make the case (partly to my own relief, I'll admit). I’d go again without hesitation for the opportunity to order something different. I think my slight negative reaction was largely based on my entrée which I found more intriguing than enjoyable. I truly enjoyed both apps, liked the vibe (there was a young husband and wife entertaining on guitar and percussion who we were so impressed with--a rare thing--that we bought a couple of their CDs), the room, and the choices offered.

[very sadly, no pics; didn’t have the cameras with us]

El Arrayan
Calle Allende 344, Centro
Puerto Vallarta, MÉXICO
(322) 222-7195
http://elarrayan.com.mx/currentmenu.php


CUETO’S
It was on our radar from a line in a post upthread by chicagofoodies. Then, once we had trained our concierge to recommend LTH-worthy “authentic” places, she put in a good word for this place as well. It’s out of the way, in a poorer neighborhood with zero tourists. We walked from our hotel and, though the area was a little offputting because of frequently unlit streets, I never felt unsafe. The outside of the place is brightly lit and once inside the sliding glass doors, we were treated royally. This was, hands down, our best meal in Vallarta.
As we got comfortable--the room, as the picture discloses, is not particularly warm or inviting--we were shown a tray with seafood. Everything on that tray was beautiful, including the largest crawfish I’ve ever seen by a factor of about three. The menu is large and after much to-ing and fro-ing, we started with the ceviche a la Vallarta (they had another version…Acapulco, I think). Then on to our entrees: I went with the huachinango sarandeado—the classic whole red snapper basted/coasted in garlic-chile oil. LDC chose the giant shrimp and asked for her sauce on the side, so she could dunk. Everything was outstanding. No ifs, ands, or buts. I don’t remember sucking fish bones quite as eagerly ever before. Both entrees were accompanied by a simple rice prep and steamed squash/carrots. Nothing exceptional about those sides, but oh...the entrees! And, lest it be an afterthought: the flan. At the risk of being overly enthusiastic, the best flan either of us has ever had. Not your ordinary flan, this was a slice of a cakelike flan (in size, not texture). Almost four inches thick, a generous portion, and not draped with caramel sauce as it's traditionally presented. This was flan to die for. It's not normally a dessert I order, but it somehow seemed like the thing to order and I will be eternally grateful that I did so. If anyone reading this goes and disagrees, I'll refund the price of your dinner...that's how certain I am!
We loved this place and almost everything about it, from the owners (a family) to the servers, the mariachis (who asked a pricey 60 pesos (about $4) per piece but were really very good)...you name it. As I mentioned at the top of this post, Cueto's forced me to rethink (yet again) why some meals just blow others away. As I hope this post makes clear, we had excellent service and excellent food at both Trio and Café des Artistes, two highly regarded places. But as good as both of those meals were, Cueto’s beat them. Handily. Why? Probably in part because we hit it off with one of the owners and in part because everyone we dealt with was so friendly. When a place it hitting on all cylinders, it’s hard to beat. And it was that warmth, that friendliness, that…"soul” that accounted for it being the place we liked best. Great service and great food are absolute prerequisites, of course. But they aren’t enough, I guess.
Aside to Alan (jazzfood): if you liked the homemade salsa at Tino’s, you’d love the sauce here. Same theme but just flat-out better here. We asked one of the owners if it was for sale. He said yes and went into the kitchen. He came back with a jar of the sauce and when I asked how much, he said to "put it in the tip." Though he was very generous, I am already concerned about the quality of my life when it runs out. Garlicky, chiley-y, an astonishing depth of flavors.... The perfect sauce.


Cueto's interior


Cueto's fresh seafood offerings


Cueto's ceviche


Cueto's--jumbo shrimp


Cueto's--huachinango sarandeado

Cueto’s
Calle Brasilia 469, Col. 5 de Diciembre
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
(322) 223-0363


CAFÉ DE OLLA and FREDY’S TUCAN
We had very similar breakfasts at Café de Olla and Fredy’s Tucan, both in Old Town and but a block or two apart. The former is better known and more upscale, for all its rustic decor. The latter seems to be more of a cafeteria-like neighborhood spot for locals. I had huevos con machaca at both places and LDC had oatmeal and pan dulce at both. The thing that struck us more than anything else was that they either use a different kind of oatmeal or prepare it very differently in Mexico (or at least in PV): cooked to absolute death and served soupier than here. Both breakfasts were perfectly fine; good, but nothing to write home about (as it were). We would have returned to Café de Olla for dinner had time permitted because the breakfast menu was disappointing in its small number of Mexican offerings. But time didn’t permit. I'd be curious for dinner there in part because the breakfast offerings were mostly disappointingly American in their orientation.

Cafe de Olla
Calle Basilio Badillo 168-A, Col. E. Zapata
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
(322) 223-1626

Fredy's Tucan
Calle Basilio Badillo 245, Col. E. Zapata
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
(322) 223-0778
http://www.fredystucan.com/


CENADURIA DOÑA RAQUEL
We thank our concierge for this one. We had passed it by on the street and, frankly, barely noticed. As the photo of the kitchen shows, it’s a very home-y place. One server, one "cook." But the food was very good, cheap, and quite hit the spot. The menu is on the small side but if you're looking for "authentic" food, this may be your place. Of the patrons there the entire time we were there, we were clearly the only tourists. We demolished what we were served and though it isn't great food, it seemed very much what you’d get at someone’s home, though, and for that we were grateful. My small pozole would have qualified as a "large" anywhere else and was generously garnished with shredded cabbage and radish. The broth was delectable; the plato especial included two tacos, a flauta, a few enchiladas, and a tostada. All gone without a trace. LDC's enchiladas features a chocolatey mole--perhaps a shade heavy on the chocolate, but nonetheless quite good. If you need a quiet, simple, place for a relatively quick, unfancy--but very authentic--dinner, we recommend it.


Dona Raquel exterior


Dona Raquel menu


Dona Raquel kitchen


Dona Raquel “small” pozole


Dona Raquel enchiladas en mole


Dona Raquel--plato especial (tacos, flauta, tostada, enchiladas—you choose the meat)

Cenaduria Doña Raquel
L. Vicario 131, Centro
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
(322) 108-2146

TINO’S (or, formally, MARISCOS TINO'S)
…has moved. More precisely, the El Pitillal branch has moved to the center of town--the north end of the Malecón. Since I never ate at its former (or other branches in Nuevo Vallarta or Punta de Mita) location, I can’t speak to that. But I can say that, given the enthusiasm on this board for Tino’s, we were very disappointed. The food was good. No better than that. As an indication of how the American economy is affecting Mexico, there was a large staff on hand with little to do. There was business, to be sure. Tables seemed evenly divided between tourists and locals. But we were approached, welcomed, chatted with, and served by more people than I would have thought humanly possible. Everyone was pleasant, but it was too much. Particularly since the food was merely good. My shrimp seemed to have cooked and then doused in a bottle of the salsa huichol that decorates tables throughout the city. A not particularly interesting, mostly one-note, sauce. LDC's fish soup was "fine" as well. Rich sauce, lots of seafood, but ultimately, nothing out of the ordinary. Whether the food has suffered because of the move or for some other reason, I couldn't begin to guess. But it clearly wasn't the caliber of what they served in El Pitillal to judge by all the praise heaped on them earlier in this thread.


Tino's app


Tino's fish soup


Tino's shrimp a la diabla

Mariscos Tino's
Paseo Diaz Ordaz 920 (between Langarica and 31 de Octubre), Centro
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico
(322) 225-2171
http://www.tinosvallarta.com/


AND SO...
I necessarily omit places. Worse, I omit some of our experiences out of Vallarta. We took a trip very similar to santander's to San Sebastian, a 17th-century village in the Sierra Madre mountains, a couple hours to the east, visiting a tequila distillery and coffee plantation on the way. We went to the Botanic Gardens, a forty-minute local bus ride to the south. We spent a day hiking up the El Nogalito River.... We were lucky enough to be in PV for the Feast of Guadalupe, the patron saint of Vallarta and, indeed, of Mexico. There were nightly processions from different points in town to the cathedral: part religious ceremony, part street fair, part local holiday.... Entire families lined the streets, groups both large and small, formal and informal, including very intricate, extravagant floats and groups of people just marching. Street food, vendors, hawkers galore. A real treat and I wish we'd been there for more of the festival. Too much to include in this post.

Wonderful writeup Gypsy Boy . . . and be happy you didn't have to suffer through a dinner at Cafe de Olla. I think it's the most overrated restaurant in PV, and yes, quite Americanized. But hey, I remember having seen long lines at Chi-Chi's too on occasions. Anyway, I've been there twice, and really disliked it both times.

Gypsy Boy -- I really enjoyed reading your post and looking at the many swell pictures. The ones with all that great looking seafood in them really spoke to me!... and of the places you discuss, Cueto's in particular struck me...

Sounds like it was a really great trip... Will you be posting on the inland excursion?

A

Great report, thanks.

NB for future readers: My recent Tino's praise was for the Punta de Mita branch, which was excellent during my visits in Summer '09 -- particularly the sarandeado prep. The cook assigned to the plancha was very skilled and the fish was coming in to the restaurant directly from the adjacent marina. As always, milage varies.

I'll also add, for those going to Tino's, that not ordering the pescado sarandeado is a huge mistake (though there are some shrimp dishes that make a great accompaniment as a second dish). Ordering something else would be like going to Katy's and ordering chicken chow mein.

stevez wrote:I'll also add, for those going to Tino's, that not ordering the pescado sarandeado is a huge mistake (though there are some shrimp dishes that make a great accompaniment as a second dish). Ordering something else would be like going to Katy's and ordering chicken chow mein.

Thanks, all, for the kind words. I'll happily admit that there are plenty of places the world over that are good at specific things; I've gotta wonder, though, if Tino's entire reputation rests on a single dish. It may be superb (I had had Cueto's prep of the exact same thing two nights earlier and wasn't ready for it so soon again) but if they can't make anything else well.... It just seems that, given the location, their seafood preps in general ought to be on a pretty high level overall. Oh well, live and learn. Next time: longer stay, more sarandeado!

Gypsy Boy wrote:Thanks, all, for the kind words. I'll happily admit that there are plenty of places the world over that are good at specific things; I've gotta wonder, though, if Tino's entire reputation rests on a single dish. It may be superb (I had had Cueto's prep of the exact same thing two nights earlier and wasn't ready for it so soon again) but if they can't make anything else well.... It just seems that, given the location, their seafood preps in general ought to be on a pretty high level overall. Oh well, live and learn. Next time: longer stay, more sarandeado!

I totally understand not wanting to order the same thing twice, but for sake of comparison, here is a pic of Tino's zarandeado. It's almost a completely different dish than what you had at Cueto's (a place that is high on my list for my next visit). Tino's version is butterflied and cooked over an open fire in a basket, basted with a spiced butter continuously during the cooking process. Far and away, the best version I've had anywhere. Also, the Chow Poodle had some really good head-on shrimp simply grilled with oil and garlic. Admittedly, I haven't been to the location you visited. Hopefully you only suffered a case of mis-ordering and the food hasn't gone downhill and is still as good as ever.

Tino's Pescado Zarandeado


Tino's Shrimp with Oil & Garlic

GB,

Based on my broad sampling of the dish, the sarandeado at Tino's is truly a house specialty -- it outshines the other menu items as well as other good restuarants' versions of the same dish. They take special pride in this particular dish and appear to have better equipment, a designated kitchen station, and a cook just for the sarandeado. Of course, I only visited the PM branch, so there could well be a difference. I really didn't think I'd enjoy the very white-tablecloth, tourist oriented place too much. But the fish was just perfect.

Also, the "diablo" stuff I tried at sereral places in Nayarit (though not Tino's) was as you described -- relatively one-note, with bottled hot sauce and perhaps Worchestershire being the primary ingredients. Nothing too exciting and certainly not in the same league with the aguachiles, sarandeado, and garlic/chile/oil preparations that also show up on most menus (including at Nayarit places here in Chicago).

Getting back to your post, Dona Raquel looks great and the menu has some interesting items I'll be sure to try if I get back that way, particularly the tostadas de pata and the enchiladas with picadillo and requeson. The latter almost seems Italian American and isn't something I've seen before.

Thanks again.

Steve and Jeff,
Thanks to you both. The sarandeado is a must-try at Tino's now. I regret having but one stomach to use for my country. It's clear from both of your posts, now, that Tino's isn't a one-dish wonder; I'm still disappointed that the shrimp were as mediocre as they were but live and learn. And I'll be back!

Gypsy Boy wrote:

stevez wrote:I'll also add, for those going to Tino's, that not ordering the pescado sarandeado is a huge mistake (though there are some shrimp dishes that make a great accompaniment as a second dish). Ordering something else would be like going to Katy's and ordering chicken chow mein.

Thanks, all, for the kind words. I'll happily admit that there are plenty of places the world over that are good at specific things; I've gotta wonder, though, if Tino's entire reputation rests on a single dish. It may be superb (I had had Cueto's prep of the exact same thing two nights earlier and wasn't ready for it so soon again) but if they can't make anything else well.... It just seems that, given the location, their seafood preps in general ought to be on a pretty high level overall. Oh well, live and learn. Next time: longer stay, more sarandeado!

Beautifully done. So glad you tried Trio! Our little private balcony meal is still a highlight of my recent existence; we were expecting ("with child," to be old-fashioned), happy, full, and people went out of their way to make us so that trip. Your squid does look like a stew, which ours was definitely not; ours was served ceviche-wet, only slightly warmer than room temperature, and I don't remember the ginger. Cafe des Artistes was a special setting with some damn good snapper but you are definitely held at arms' length from the kitchen, a finely tuned and wholly unseen operation, one thing that does seem to set many of these places apart from the palm-pumping transparency of our favorite Chicago spots.

After catching up with the latest posts here, I'm getting in the mood for my return to Puerto Vallarta! I will be back there in less than 72 hours...

Interesting to hear that Tino's moved their Pitillal location to the Malecon. I always liked the trip through some of the more authentic neighborhoods to get there... of course, now we'll save on the cab costs because we can take the bus.

I am also surprised to see a positive write-up about Ximotates. We'd had a couple meals with great food, if slow service when they were in their old location. Our one visit to their new location 2 years ago was probably the biggest disaster of a meal we had in 13 years of spending 2 weeks in PV. Didn't have our reservation, gave attitude about seating us in spite of a 2/3 empty restaurant because of our group's size (12 or so), it took 30 minutes to get so much as drinks ordered, the food was nowhere as good as we remembered and when a waiter spilled a bowl of salsa on my wife and her white cardigan all the manager offered was a discount on a future visit. Maybe they're turned things around again, or are under new management/ownership? I guess we'll ask around to see if worth going again.

Looking forward to Trio and Cafe des Artistes. Some of our favorites, but we're also friends with the chefs so we do get a little extra attention

We've been eating lots of nicer meals, but watching Rick Bayless' show has inspired me to want to explore the street food more. Any suggestions for the little hole in the walls? CENADURIA DOÑA RAQUEL looks interesting. Anybody eaten at the foodcourt in the craft market? And how many have eaten from the street taco stands? Tips for doing so safely?

blipsman wrote:And how many have eaten from the street taco stands? Tips for doing so safely?

We did eat from street stalls a few times; in fact, I wish we had tried more. My rule of thumb was to avoid fresh greens and stick to popular places. I think it worked. Nothing exceptional and I can't recall specific locations except for one, on the corner of Av. Mexico and Calle Chile. A seafood "cart" that was always, always packed. We never made it there but it would be the number one street place to try if we return.

As to Xitomates, remember: we were the first customers there. Business everywhere, EVERYWHERE, was lousy. Under the circumstances, it would have been almost impossible not to have good service. That said, we were still very happy with our meal there and would return with absolutely no hesitation. Good luck!

We are at the end of our 3rd full day in PV and loving it. The board has already provided us with great information on restaurants, etc.

Our first dinner was at Tino's and it was a terrific start. The snapper zarandeado was the star of the evening, but we also enjoyed shrimp ceviche, fish soup, shrimp diablo, and seafood cocktail. I should've kept notes because I don't remember what else we ordered. For dessert we sampled some churros from a cart outside the restaurant. They put Comiskey Park(it will never be anything else to me) to shame, as expected.

Lunch was on the beach in front of the condo at El Langoustine, serving excellent guacamole, margaritas, ceviche tostadas, seafood cocktail, and fajitas.

Our next dinner was at Los Xitomates. While we really enjoyed the food, service was atrocious. It was very slow, and they messed up some dishes, overcooked another, and neglected to bring a bottle of wine, which we eventually cancelled after waiting 20 minutes. The guitarist was quite entertaining.

While my friend John and I were golfing at beautiful Vista Vallarta, MsWiv, Jan, and Lana took the booze boat to Las Caletas, John Huston's old home, for a spa day. Ellen was almost left behind, as it was difficult to pry her away from the scuba instructor-a dead ringer for Antonio Banderas. Pre dinner apps were purchased from some tiny storefronts on the south Malecon, including Tacos al pastor and tamales from Vicky. They were outrageous. With no plan for dinner we stumbled onto Gaby's, which appeared scary from the outside, but ended up a treasure, with an ethereal tortilla soup, along with mole chicken, and chile rellenos.

Today we took an enjoyable day trip to San Sebastian(thanks Santander), experiencing the various coffee and tequila stops, the historic town, and a wonderful lunch at Arrayanes. It's off to Cafe des Artistes.

RevrendAndy wrote:Our next dinner was at Los Xitomates. While we really enjoyed the food, service was atrocious. It was very slow, and they messed up some dishes, overcooked another, and neglected to bring a bottle of wine, which we eventually cancelled after waiting 20 minutes. The guitarist was quite entertaining.

So sorry to hear about the bad service. Given other reports, it appears that our luck was just that, luck (plus having the good fortune to be quite early). Very glad to hear the food was good, but bad service can ruin even the best of meals. I'll keep my fingers crossed for the rest of your trip (though I'm puzzled, to say the least, that you enjoyed the shrimp a la diabla at Tino's). Thanks for the interim report.

I own two Launderymats down there (in the romantic zone, the rest of PVR sucks) so I go down every month..I like Roberto's
Click on this

Click here
http://s230.photobucket.com/albums/ee13 ... ?start=896

The Lindo Mar right by our Condo is great..
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sour ... q=&aqi=g10

I know the owner- He's a real englishman and on Tuesdays it's all you can eat Fish N Chips..So crunchy and good and when you take a bite grease explodes all over your face..We don't miss it it..In Cod we trust
http://www.joejacks-fishshack.com/reviews.html

Heres a PVR trick..Its the Barcelo all inclusive just down the road (a 6 cent bus ride) to Miissamolya..If your white you just walk in from the beach and no one will question you..Great meals and great drinks by the pool- All free..We crash it everytime where there

And you can get good smoke down there for $5 or $10..That makes the food taste so much better

Silas Jayne wrote:The Lindo Mar right by our Condo is great..
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&sour ... q=&aqi=g10

WWSJD.

And yes, that's my

Dinner at Cafe des Artistes was fabulous. I thought the cooking was quite sophisticated and every dish was right on. Unfortunately, I didn't keep track of our dishes and the menu has changed from that listed on the website.

On New Year's Eve we decided to dine in the condo and purchased lobsters from the farmers market. We boiled those and enjoyed surf and turf with grilled ribeyes. Our condo is at the mouth of the Rio Cuale and the Malecon, on the south end of the city. There are a bunch of vendors there and we decided to purchase our various apps, sides, and dessert from them. We grazed on fabulous tamales from Vicky, tacos al Pastor, grilled shrimp on sticks, mutant corn freshly shucked with crema, chili, and cheese, and assorted desserts. Ellen, John, Jan, Lana, and I then saw an amazing fireworks show from our balcony overlooking PV and Banderas Bay.

Last night dinner at Trio was delicious. We all loved the calamari with the smoked tomato salsa. Also quite good was risotto with octopus, foie gras with glazed jelly, and beet salad with goat cheese. Seafood, rabbit, and veal entrees were right on.

Lunch today was a small Italian restaurant called Pietro cooking thin crust pizzas in a wood burning oven. It was a great change of pace.

Tomorrow we head north after a wonderful vacation. We all felt we'd like to come back and do this again next New Years.