The Hmong have been a distinct population for millennia, first in southern China, more recently migrating south into what is now Laos, Cambodia and Thailand. During the Vietnam War the CIA employed many Hmong as a proxy force fighting against the Pathet Lao. When US forces withdrew from SE Asia, the Hmong were left to fend for themselves and suffered terribly. Recently many Hmong have been admitted to the US as refugees. For reasons not entirely clear to me a sizable fraction settled in Saint Paul.
The Hmong have a strong presence in the Frogtown neighborhood, a little west of the Capitol, with a concentration around University & Western Avenues. My first stop was International Market Place, sometimes called the Hmong Market or simply the Flea Market. This was unquestionably the highlight of my entire stay in the Twin Cities. I enjoyed it so much I made several visits. In its former life IMP was a lumber yard, consisting of two large buildings and some open sheds.

The building barely visible on the right is divided into many small stalls, some selling kitchenware, crafts, dried herbs, hand-forged gardening equipment and much more. It also has a separate room housing fresh produce vendors. I believe nearly all of the many vendors are Hmong.

Outside by the sheds are the live plant sellers. Much of the stock consists of Hmong culinary and medicinal herbs. There's the usual cilantro and lemon grass of course but there are dozens of plants I never saw before. The photo shows only a fraction of what's on offer; really a remarkable collection.

I bought some plants to bring home with me and this might be the subject of another post (once I figure out what I have!).
The building on the left is filled with more small stalls with an emphasis on clothing and videos. It also houses the food court, a fascinating area to say the least. Unfortunately photography is discouraged in this building so I can only show you some food I carried away.
Hmong cooking has of course been influenced by other cuisines of SE Asia but many of the classic Hmong dishes are quite distinct. Two hallmarks are less aggressive seasoning and reliance on a large variety of fresh herbs.
Laj Nqaij Qaib (see note on the written Hmong language, last paragraph)

I started with chicken larb, a common Laotian dish. This was an excellent coarsely textured version, heavy on herbs and toasted ground rice.
Qe Nqaij Qaib Xyaw Taum Paj
From the same vendor I also bought some chicken (and tofu?) meatballs. These had a nice light texture and were filled with minced herbs.
Nyhuv Ntxwm Hmoob
Traditional Hmong long sausages were everywhere. These coarse-textured beauties were simply seasoned with garlic, ginger and scallions. The complex sour and slightly hot sauce was a great accompaniment.
Plab Qaib
Hmong cooks are well known for using every part of the animal, exemplified by this gizzard salad. I had doubts while ordering but it was very good.
Kooj Tis Qaib Ntim
These stuffed chicken wings are reportedly a recent adaptation of Hmong cooks. The stuffing was simply well-seasoned, coarsely-chopped chicken meat. The salty, sour dipping sauce was phenomenal.
University Avenue has a large number of Hmong shops, some clearly identified (e.g., Hmong Video), some not (just look for those unpronouncible words).
Paj Tawg, on University & Marion directly south of International Market Place, is one of the larger ones. They carry an interesting mix of groceries, cooking equipment, dry goods, textiles and beads. The Hmong are famous for their embroidery. If you want to try your hand at this art, this is a great place to stock up on supplies.
One of the most impressive shops on University is Hmong Arts, Books and Crafts, one of the world's very few Hmong bookshops (remember the Hmong written language is barely fifty years old).

This is a beautiful shop, clearly a labor of love by its owner. One room is devoted to books (a surprising number) and crafts; the other has mostly clothing and textiles. Some similar items are available from the stalls at International Market Place but most of Hmong ABC's stock is on a different level. I would consider some of the textiles to be near museum quality (with commensurate prices). The owner is a font of knowledge on all things Hmong.
Despite the large Hmong population in Saint Paul, there are surprisingly few restaurants. Those Hmong who run restaurants usually specialize in some other cuisine, such as Thai or Vietnamese. Other than the International Market Place the only other source I found is the deli at Sun Foods. I had a tough time finding this place as it used to go by another name (Foodsmart). Sun Foods is an impressive multi-national market roughly similar to Chicago's Broadway Market.

Sun Foods has a nice little deli serving prepared food to take out. Much of it is Thai but I think the cooks are all Hmong so they prepare these slightly differently and they also make occasional Hmong standards.
Taub Ntoos Qaub
This is, of course, the green papaya salad ubiquitous in SE Asia. When I asked the extremely helpful young woman who was taking orders what made it Hmong style she explained, as if speaking to an especially dense six year old, "A Hmong is making it, so it's Hmong." I asked the older Hmong lady who prepared the salad to make it the way she would eat it. I was rewarded with an excellent version but much fishier than any I've had. She added fish sauce, dried fish chunks and (I think) some sort of fish paste. I later read that this is not atypical. This tub, that would easily serve four, cost $2.99, an amazing bargain.
Some of the Thai-style curries looked pretty good but I was determined to stick to the Hmong dishes.
Quav Iab Nyuj & Nyhuv Ntxwm Hmoob
The first name refers to a very traditional Hmong beef soup but I'm not sure if this more stewlike version would be the same. I also got another Hmong sausage since I had enjoyed the first one so much.
Quav Iab Nyuj illustrates the Hmong passion for using the whole animal. This dish contained a surprising variety of "inner meats" and was seasoned with bile. Let's have a closer look.

Tripe, tendon, fatty bits, lean muscle and more, it was all there. Truly an astonishing array of textures. For an offal-n-bile stew it was surprisingly enjoyable.
I can't recommend a visit to Frogtown highly enough, especially International Market Place. Poking around on your own can occasionally be frustrating (due to language) but ultimately is extremely rewarding. Some festivals are coming up that may be of interest to visitors. Hmongtown Festival (details below) takes place June 27-28, 2009 [note added: it looks like this festival has been canceled]. Hmong Sports Tournament takes place the following weekend, July 4-5, 2009. Later in the year is the Hmong New Year Celebration, November 28-30, 2009. I really don't know much about these festivals but I bet all would be worthwhile.
Finally, a note on Hmong written language. The Hmong language has traditionally been spoken only, but in the 1950s, Western missionaries devised a written Hmong language, the Romanized Popular Alphabet. The fifty-some consonants are rendered by Roman consonants, either singly or in combinations (double, triple, quadruple). The fourteen vowels are indicated by various combinations of a, e, i, o, u
and w. In general words are monosyllabic but can be spoken with one of seven tones. The final consonant indicates the tone. This explains a bit about words such as
ntxwm (part of the word for sausage): a combination of consonant (ntx) + vowel (w) + tone marker (m, indicating the low-falling tone). A general introduction can be found
here and
here is a dictionary with useful background.
International Market Place
217 Como Av (at Marion)
St Paul MN
7am-7pm every day
Paj Tawg
225 University Av W (at Marion)
St Paul MN
Hmong Arts, Books and Crafts
298 University Av W
St Paul MN
651-293-0019
Sun Foods
544 University Av W (Unidale Mall)
St Paul MN
651-209-3710
Hmongtown Festival [cancelled]
June 27-28, 2009
http://www.hmongtownconnections.orgHmong Sports Tournament
July 4-5, 2009
http://www.laofamily.org/hmong-sports-tournament.htmHmong New Year Celebration
November 28-30, 2009
http://www.laofamily.org/hmong-newyear-celebration.htmEdited to repair photo links.
Last edited by
Rene G on September 4th, 2014, 11:09 pm, edited 2 times in total.