Road Trip to Memphis 2009 - BBQ, etc.

Inspired, in part, by Pigmon and Rene G's trip, which is documented here, the family and I decided to drive down to Memphis for Spring Break. I'd been to Memphis once before, about 16 years ago, and had fond memories. As far as destinations go, it's not the most exciting choice one can make but the weather there was warm and the trip was a lot of fun.

Over the course of the trip, we had 9 meals -- 2 that were sub-standard (one at a fairly mediocre [by Chicago standards] pizza place in Carbondale, IL and another horrible room service dinner at The Peabody hotel in Memphis) and 7 other meals that were definitely worth documenting . . .

After spending the night in Carbondale, we realized that we were a stone's throw away from Mike Mills' legendary 17th Street Bar & Grill in Murphysboro, IL (he's won the Memphis in May competition several times). We decided to stop in for lunch before completing the drive to Memphis . . .


Original location of 17th Street Bar & Grill - 32 N. 17th St, Murphysboro, IL

We wanted to try as much as we could, so we started with a couple appetizers . . .


Onion Strings
Tasty and satisfying, the onions were sliced into pieces that had some bite. They were not as crispy as I'm guessing they're supposed to be but still very nice.



Hot Wings
Great smoke here, very moist chicken and a matter-of-fact sauce. These wings were probably the best thing I ate at 17th St.

Up next, the actual BBQ . . .


Combination Plate of Brisket and Pulled Pork with Greens and Hush Puppies
Neither meat really sparkled for me. The hush puppies, while tasty, were incredibly dense. The greens were just bland.



Full slab of Baby Back Ribs
I like that the slab is served in full. Sides here include a very nice slaw, which included a lot of apple and some sauerkraut that was just ok. Ordering 2 cabbage-based side dishes was just completely idiotic on my part.



Close-up look at ribs
These ribs were kind of like jerky -- salty, hard and dry. I'm not sure if they were overcooked, overseasoned or both but while the smoke was definitely there and they were completely respectable, these ribs would not have won any contests.

Once in Memphis, our first meal of note was at the BBQ Shop . . .


BBQ Shop - 1782 Madison Ave, Memphis, TN



BBQ Beef Bologna Sandwich on Texas Toast
Based on Pigmon's personal recommendation, we ordered this delicious sandwich, which is served at BBQ joints all over Memphis. This was the unanimous favorite of all the versions we ended up trying.



BBQ Spaghetti
A fun novelty. Tasty but ultimately, for me personally, less than the sum of its parts.



Rib Tips
These tips had a nice crust and very good smoky flavor but they were extremely soft in texture, which took away a bit from the enjoyment.



Combination Plate, featuring dry-rub ribs
These ribs pretty much echoed the tips described above. The other meats on the plate -- chopped brisket is in the foreground, chopped pork is behind the ribs -- were, unfortunately, covered in a super-sweet sauce that completely obscured the meat.

Next up was Payne's BBQ . . .


Payne's BBQ (original location) - 1762 Lamar Ave, Memphis, TN



BBQ Pork Sandwich
I thought the meat here was very tasty -- good smoke and bark. And even though it somewhat obscured the meat, the zesty mustard slaw on the sandwich was terrific.



BBQ Bologna Sandwich
Had to try it.



Spare Ribs
These ribs were tasty and smoky but very dry. We probably just caught a bad interval because I doubt they're normally served this way but I can't say for sure.

We decided to take a break from BBQ and when asking around, a couple people recommended Gus's, so we thought we'd give it a try . . .


Gus's Famous Fried Chicken - 310 S Front St, Memphis, TN

Only 2 choices for appetizers here, and we opted for the fried pickles over the fried green tomatoes . . .


Fried Pickles
Tasty and mother-scratching hot. The coating here was, not surprisingly, very dense. I think they wouldn't survive the deep-fryer otherwise.



8-piece Dinner, all dark
Not pictured here is the slaw that came with the dinner. The beans and white bread are visible in the background.



Drumstick

I really enjoyed Gus's and would count it as some of the best fried chicken I've ever had in a restaurant. It was moist and very peppery, and the pieces were well-sized. Sides were just ok. The beans had some decent flavor but they were basically augmented canned beans. In fact, if I have one complaint about the food I ate in Memphis, it would be about the beans. They're served almost everywhere but it seems as if every single place that serves them starts with canned. For being such a staple, this is really a missed bet, IMO. I'm sure there's some reason why dried beans are not commonly used in the region but I think that canned beans, no matter how they are supplemented, are almost always too mushy.

Based on the fantastic thread I cited above, a drive out to Morris Grocery in Eads was a non-negotiable stop on this trip and it did not disappoint . . .


Morris Grocery - 10601 Macon, Eads, TN
While this little shop is about 30 minutes outside of Memphis, the urban sprawl leads almost to its door. In fact, the Kroger, which is located less than a mile away from Morris Grocery, is largely responsible for the fact that bbq is now the featured item at Morris Grocery. Mr. Morris told me that when he realized -- about 20 years ago -- that he could no longer compete on groceries, he turned his focus to bbq.



BBQ Pork Sandwich
20+ years of experience and a whole lot of love go into these delectable sandwiches. The meat was smoky, moist and utterly delicious. Mr. Morris told me that most northerners prefer the sandwich without slaw but when in Memphis . . .



Fried Chicken and Ho Cake
This combination was no slouch, either. Both the chicken and the fried, cornmeal-based cake were wonderful. By the end of our lunch, nearly all the fried chicken that was in the hotel pan behind the counter was gone. I'm guessing that it's just as popular at lunchtime as is the BBQ.

After a brief visit to the University of Memphis, it was time for a 2nd lunch. In chatting with various locals during our visit, one name kept coming up in discussions about BBQ -- Cozy Corner. We decided to check it out . . .


Cozy Corner - 745 N Parkway, Memphis, TN



Aquarium Smoker
First thing I noticed after I entered was this very familiar-looking piece of equipment.



Smoking Meats in Aquarium Smoker
Once I started snapping pics, the proprietor slid the door open, so I could take some more. He told me that he burns strictly charcoal, no wood.



BBQ Bologna Sandwich
Someone, please stop me!



Spare Ribs
For me, these were the best ribs I ate in Memphis. Not only were they wonderfully smoky but the textures -- a combination of light crispiness on the outside and moist fattiness on the inside -- was dead solid perfect. This was an order of 6 ribs, which came with 2 sides and some white bread. We opted for slaw and bbq corn on the cob.



Sweet Potato Pie
I absolutely hate sweet potatoes yet this pie was so delicious, I couldn't stop eating it. It isn't made on premises but it's mighty fine, nonetheless.

The destination for our final meal -- Germantown Commissary -- was recommended by nr706. It's not actually in Memphis but in Germantown, which is just east of Memphis. I'd been there once before but I'd completely forgotten about it until nr706 mentioned it to me in PM, which I greatly appreciate . . .


Germantown Commissary - 2290 Germantown Rd. Germantown,TN



Brunswick Stew
Our goal was to try as many of the offerings as we could. And while highlights were great, not everything was in that category. This Brunswick Stew was in that latter category. It just tasted like tangy vegetable soup to me.



Tamales
Tamales were actually tasty but more like Tom Tom than Mexican. The slathering of cheese and chili elevated them to fun junk food heights.



Nachos
This dish was horribly wrong on so many levels. The chips were so-so, the cheese was actually fakey cheese sauce like you might get at the ballpark, the pulled pork atop the pile was fairly dry and bland, and the bbq sauce was sweet and cloying. It was served with jalapenos, too, which my son requested on the side. They were, of course, pickled slices from a can. The only good thing about this dish is that I didn't eat more than one bite of it. But so much of our meal was great that I'm willing to look past this one and the next one . . .



BBQ Shrimp
Another miss but again, we were trying to cover the entire menu. I thought that maybe these would be interesting but they were undersized, mushy, fishy-tasting and otherwise forgettable. Fries, however, which are cut in-house, were very good.



Boss Hogg Platter
The good stuff starts here. 3/4 of the main items on this plate -- sausage, chicken and ribs -- were stellar. The cured sausage was like a peppery kielbasa, with wonderful, moist definition. Chicken was moist and smoky, and the skin was like bbq candy. Ribs were excellent -- nice light crust, moist fatty meat, lots of sweet smoke. Pulled pork, which is behind the mass of meat was no better than it was on the nachos. I really enjoyed the addition of the deviled egg. It wasn't mind-boggling but very good. Slaw was decent but the ubiquitous canned beans -- by this point -- I could have done without.



Baby Back Ribs, up close

Yeah, we were damned full but after eyeing a certain something in the deli case before we were seated, I knew that no matter how full we were, dessert was going to be part of this meal . . .


Banana Pudding
This was a great rendition, which incorporated slices of real banana and, of coruse, nilla wafers. Is there any better topping for this particular dessert than a shot of canned whipped cream? I think not!

Ok, that was the eating portion of our trip to Memphis. There were so many places we didn't get to try but the ones we did get to were really worth it. I'd love to get back to Memphis sometime soon but with so many other destinations calling my name, I'm not sure when it will happen.

=R=

17 Street Bar & Grill
32 N 17th St
Murphysboro, IL 62966
(618) 684-3722

BBQ Shop
1782 Madison Ave
Memphis, TN 38104
(901) 272-1277

Payne's BBQ
1762 Lamar Ave
Memphis, TN 38114
(901) 272-1523

Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken
310 S Front St
Memphis, TN 38103
(901) 527-4877

Morris Grocery
10601 Macon
Eads, TN 38028
(901) 755-5804

Cozy Corner BBQ
745 N Parkway
Memphis, TN 38105
(901) 527-9158

Germantown Commissary
2290 Germantown Rd S
Germantown, TN 38138
(901) 754-5540

Great post Ronnie. Did you make it a little further south into the Delta for some tamales?

Ronnie, that various bbq looks great, love the close ups of the smoke ring.

thanks

Hey, Ronnie, when you were there, did you happen to see this pimp waiting for his chicken?

As I walked out, he told me how much he liked my commemorative Playboy sandals and then flashed me his full gold teeth grill smile. I really wanted to ask him if I could take his picture but I was afraid he'd cap my ass.

Excellent post.

PIGMON wrote:Hey, Ronnie, when you were there, did you happen to see this pimp waiting for his chicken?

No but there was a security guard patroling the entrance, which might explain his absence.

Btw, thanks again, for the inspiring thread and great recommendations.

iblock, no Delta run for tamales. Instead, I went to Graceland!

=R=

Outside of NYC, San Fran and LA, I think that Memphis might have the most dedicated threads.

Popular destination Enjoyable addition to the pantheon, Ronnie.

Thing I liked best about Morris BBQ? The most bark of any barbecue I had in the Bluff City.



Darn it all if that cornmeal patty doesn't look delicious. Morris also said that he had a Lenten barbecue catfish Friday special, but I missed out as I arrived after the lunch rush.
Additional Morris intel: I asked how big the sandwiches were - Morris said they came in one size, jumbo. Don't believe him - get two.

And as I mention in the linked post, I found the ribs at Interstate (much like your Bar-b-q Shop experience) to be so disappointingly sweet, meek and mushy that the barbecue nachos (and all the fake cheese they were served with) were a far better caloric investment . Turned me off of ribs for the trip.

My two big regrets: did not get to Payne's during office hours and did not try the bologna. With your pictures, I almost feel like I did.

I hope you guys had a chance to hit some museums while you were down there. I'm glad you enjoyed Gus's. There is some fine fried chicken to be had at Alcenia's (our breakfast took about a half an hour with a busy two-person kitchen working on nothing else- that chicken was pan-fried fresh) and the fried catfish at Soulfish are also a good respite from smoke, sweet sauce and canned beans



Alcenia's
317 N. Main St
Memphis, TN 38103
(901) 523-0200
(TUE-FRI 11:00 am-5:00 pm / SAT 8:00 am-1:00 pm)

Soulfish Cafe
862 South Cooper
Memphis, TN 38103
(901) 725-0722

Thanks, Ronnie. Your great post brings back memories of my idyllic childhood in Memphis, which strongly influenced both my taste in music and food. Clearly, it's time to start planning a pilgrimage.

ronnie_suburban wrote:Aquarium Smoker
First thing I noticed after I entered was this very familiar-looking piece of equipment.

Very cool, I've heard tell of Aquariums in East Saint Louis, but never in Memphis. I wonder if it was made in Chicago?

ronnie_suburban wrote:BBQ Bologna Sandwich
Someone, please stop me!

I woke up thinking about BBQ bologna sandwiches today. I know what's going on my smoker this weekend.

gastro gnome wrote:There is some fine fried chicken to be had ag else- that chicken was pan-fried fresh)

Fried chicken, biscuit, eggs, rice and fried green tomatoes for breakfast! I really need to get to Memphis soon.

nice trip ronnie
i will look forward to talking about your trip may 9th
i did not have a extensive visit to memhpis bucause we hung out at mim
but we did get to a few of the usual suspects
great post yummy pics
the ribs picture of cozy corner ribs look as good as can be to me
thanks for the memories as they say
inspiring to say the least

ronnie_suburban wrote:
Over the course of the trip, we had 9 meals -- 2 that were sub-standard (one at a fairly mediocre [by Chicago standards] pizza place in Carbondale, IL and another horrible room service dinner at The Peabody hotel in Memphis) and 7 other meals that were definitely worth documenting . . .

Hey Ronnie,

Great post. I'm curious as to which pizza place in Carbondale left you disappointed. Having grown up in that area, I have a few guesses.

Thanks,

Gus

gus wrote:

ronnie_suburban wrote:
Over the course of the trip, we had 9 meals -- 2 that were sub-standard (one at a fairly mediocre [by Chicago standards] pizza place in Carbondale, IL and another horrible room service dinner at The Peabody hotel in Memphis) and 7 other meals that were definitely worth documenting . . .

Hey Ronnie,

Great post. I'm curious as to which pizza place in Carbondale left you disappointed. Having grown up in that area, I have a few guesses.

Thanks,

Gus

It was Quatro. It certainly wasn't bad but it was nothing special, either.

=R=

ronnie_suburban wrote:It was Quatro. It certainly wasn't bad but it was nothing special, either.

=R=

Thanks for satisfying my curiousity, Ronnie.

I'm not sure if this has been mentioned elsewhere, but if you're a fan of the style, Italian Village serves a decent cracker crust pizza. Their sauce is a little sweet for my taste, but they consistently get a nice caramelization on the cheese and a nice char on the crust. The crust doesn't end up as crackly as some of the Chicago spots, but I tend to prefer it that way myself. The building itself has some charm, and it's usually pretty hopping at dinner time. It's not worth a special trip, but if you ever find yourself in the area again, it might warrant a try.

Italian Village
405 S Washington St
Carbondale, IL 62901
(618) 457-0212

your thread had me missing all my old visits to my grandparents who were native Memphians. I spent a lot of time eating BBQ at a defunct chain-place called Leonard's. My family never ate at the Rendevous, always had special occassions at the elegant Justine's (also defunct) but I had good BBQ last visit at the Commissary and thought the Banana Pudding was spot on--divine, as they say in the sunny south. My family's secret to good ribs was a long marinate is a bottled thing you can buy in Memphis grocery stores called, Wickers. It is vinegar based. Also, if you are passing through Southern Illinois near Carbondale, there is a good finer dining restaurant in Herrin called Mary's. Cheers to good eats.

We will be spending a long weekend in Memphis over the MLK holiday weekend. I have the BBQ and southern food fixes figured out but need a suggestion for a romantic dinner. Obviously, first and foremost is food quality but we would like a bit of ambience to accompany our feast. Thanks.

i do like rendezvous ,to add to this great list
hogsfly.com

Great review but can anyone add/update? I can't find any thread more recent than 2010 or so. Memphis only. Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Thanks!