Things to eat only in season

VI's comment about summer oysters on the recent NOLA thread reminded me that oysters are on my short list of things to eat only in season. Also on the list: sweet corn, watermelon, peaches, and apples (I know apples traditionally are "keeper" fruits, but an apple that's been in storage just can't compare with an October mac, so I don't try). I'm pretty picky about asparagus and strawberries as well. Needless to say, I'm a farmers' market junkie.
Are others equally fussy? More so?

Rhubarb. I love strawberry-rhubarb pie or crisp. Hard to find out of season, and if you do, it's not really worth it.

I lived in Belgium (mostly in Leuven) for several years altogether and produce was very much seasonal; large grocery chains (e.g., 'Food Lion', which in Belgium is 'Delhaize') would have world-food (stuff shipped in from wherever regardless of season) but the smaller groceries and Friday market vendors were picky and so followed the seasonal rhythm.

Witloof (Belgian endive) is a winter vegetable and for the most part it was only available from the late fall to early spring. No better reason to look forward to Jack Frost's arrival than that.

Spruitjes (Brussels sprouts) and leeks were generally available but the best ones only seasonally...

Asparagus and strawberries of the absolute best quality were available, some domestic and others from neighbouring lands, but only in the spring. What an excellent way to ease the suffering caused by the disappearance of witloof.

At the Friday market, in a van parked in the Vismarkt, was a mushroom vendor (that's pretty much all he sold). There were basic farmed varieties available all the time but there were also things that would come and go over the course of the year.

One of my favourite parts of the spring was the arrival of new potatoes. The first ones would appear actually in the late winter and were from North Africa (Morocco, I remember, but perhaps elsewhere as well). Every so often batches would appear from places progressively further north --Italy, southern France, then the local ones, and finally the last wave, from Scandinavia. They were all great but I remember the ones from Sweden especially...

Clementines would appear for Saint Nicolas' day... another great treat... And for Christmas season, Palm Doppel Bokbier... Then I'd go to Italy to spend the holidays and on Christmas Eve they would serve the newly appeared broccoli di rapi...

Why did I come back?...

Antonius

Did you see my post on my cherry-rhubarb pie?

Cherries are the big one for me-- I like watching as they get cheaper and cheaper, using them more and more casually in fruit salad, and making at least once each year the cherry clafouti in Patricia Wells/Joel Robuchon's somewhat misnamed Simply French. When I see cherries the rest of the year, I pretend I didn't.

Well, yea, should not we be rejecting all non-local products and only eating seasonal? Is there ever a reason to buy produce from Whole Foods again?

Of course, even I have a few exceptions I allow, mostly on excuse that these things both travel very well and are otherwise impossible to find in Chicago. Thus, my exceptions for citrus, sweet potatoes and bananas. I'm willing to stretch a bit for chile peppers, especially since locally grown chiles tend to be not as hot as ones grown in hotter climates.

The most obvious seasonal intense/local key items are pears, sweet corn and tomatoes. In all these cases, even a few days away from the ground effect the flavor greatly.

The one area I am of mixed feeling is hydroponic stuff. Does a greenhouse tomatoe (or eggplant which was not that bad) count?

Should we take some oath?

Rob

"And when I die, don't bury me
In the cold grown of the cemet'ry
Out in the garden would be much better
Where I could be pushing up home grown tomaters

Homegrown tomatoes, Homegrown tomatoes
What would life be without homegrown tomatoes?
Only two tihngs that money can't buy
And that's True Love and Homegrown Tomatoes"
(Guy Clark, covered by John Denver)


Actually, I should add Jalapen~o peppers to that list, as most of what's available in supermarkets are what I call "Halla-yos" -- no pain

Ah, sweet summer figs draped only in a little prosciutto.

JoelF wrote:Actually, I should add Jalapen~o peppers to that list, as most of what's available in supermarkets are what I call "Halla-yos" -- no pain

You're absolutely right, though good ones can be found in the barrios. The difference between the safe ones in Dominick's or Jewel and the ones we get in Pilsen is night and day. I guess they breed them dull for the gringos who like the idea of eating spicy food but don't really enjoy much heat.

A

It was many years ago, traveling, though this is not relevant to the story, with Betsy, then 7, and Ed, then 18 months. Early July. Barnstaple, in Devon (Barnstaple we chose, wisely, because Calvin Trillin had written about the market). We were having fish for dinner in a local pub-- wonderful fresh fish, brought in by the boats that morning. And how would we like our potatoes? "Baked, please." "Oh, we can't do that. They're new, you know."
We happily had them boiled, and have remembered ever since that even potatoes have their seasons.

Good peaches are hard to find, even in season, so I don't try any other time. Even some farmstands have yield disappointing results. If someone spots good peaches this summer, I hope they'll post a pointer -- I'm so tired of cottony tasting fruit that rots before it ripens. Last year the best I found were donut peaches at Trader Joes, but at 69 cents for each tiny peach we didn't buy too many.

I rarely buy fresh tomatoes except in summer -- the hard flavorless winter tomatoes aren't worth eating; canned ones are better.

Tangerines are impossible to find except in their winter season. Even then, I miss the bright, zipper-skinned D'Ancy tangerines that no one seems to carry any more.

The "in season" is less of a factor than it was in the past. I have had some phenomenal peaches and plums from Chile in January that have been a lot better than some of the in season local fruit and some of the early Georgia peaches that have been in the markets recently.

Hi,

Tomatoes: though I make exception with some cherry tomatoes.

A few years ago, I went to an international master gardener conference in Florida. I learned people who are transplants are disappointed with their homegrown tomatoes. The unabated warm weather in Florida causes a poorly ripened tomato. We have warm days and cool nights, both temperature ranges are needed to obtain a fully ripened tomato. Though we may obtain tomatoes throughout the year from more temperate climates, no matter what they do it does not replicate our climatic conditions which are ideal for tomatoes. (and pumpkins, too!)

Raspberries: these are fragile creatures made more fragile at their peak ripeness. The best raspberries I obtain are from u-pick farms, they are NEVER in the shops.

Strawberries: The best is during their limited growing season, which is right about now. I never get better than the ones I collect myself at a u-pick. All other strawberries need some assitance to improve their under-ripened flavor: sugar, sometimes vanilla, sometimes Balsamic vinegar, always something.

Regards,

I completely concur with your choices Cathy, particularly the tomatoes. I can't even bear to think of a caprese salad outside of the August-October season here in Illinois. It's just not worth it.

On a slightly different tact relating to these three ingredients, I was giving an informal taste education to a little girl that my nanny sits for on Friday. She was at my house while I was preparing for a cocktail party later that evening. We were talking about cooking and food (her mother being the brownie out of a box kind of girl) and she expressed her love of strawberries. I had purchased three different kinds from Nichol's a day before so I gave her a strawberry tasting. It was amazing to watch her register the various flavors in the different varieties. The same afternoon, my heirloom tomato plants arrived and I talked with her about the various colors, brown, yellow, purple, white as compared to the standard red. Finally, her lunch that day was a peanut butter & jelly sandwich made with Nichol's raspberries from the height of last year's season. I think she went home happy.

I just can't wait to pass these experiences on to my own son.

Tomatoes, Peppers and the Equation of Color and Taste

MAG wrote: The same afternoon, my heirloom tomato plants arrived and I talked with her about the various colors, brown, yellow, purple, white as compared to the standard red.

Mag,

I remember you saying once that you ate tomatoes only after August, and I usually break down before then (otherwise, I could make papaya salad only for a few months out of the year).

I'm curious, though, about these white tomatoes of which you speak. I have a battery of heirlooms going this year (some greens, purples, yellows and reds), and I don't remember seeing whites for sale at any of the events I've attended (various late spring horticultural fairs, etc.).

Do you like them?

I like all tomatoes, but I must admit, the least colorful ones are sometimes the least tasty (though I would still grow them, because I am, to a certain extent, willing to exchange some taste for an interesting appearance). It's kind of like with sweet peppers: the very common green and relatively common red peppers are, to my buds, more full of crisp flavor than the less common and more expensive yellow and orange varieties.

My guess is that white heirloom tomatoes, like the yellow 'apricot' ones that I'm growing, are less tasty but still worth growing for visual interest.

David

MAG wrote:I completely concur with your choices Cathy, particularly the tomatoes. I can't even bear to think of a caprese salad outside of the August-October season here in Illinois. It's just not worth it.

Of course we have the whole mozzerella problem, but I guess that's for another thread.

BTW, back to the thread, I forgot to add one of my favorite only in season, and surely local foods: concord grapes. When I visited Henry's Farm I learned that at one time, Illinois was the largest grower of grapes in the USA.

Rob

Illinois was the largest grower of grapes in the USA.

Yes, I have heard the same. The decline came with prohibition, where the vineyards once fed the once prosperous Illinois wine industry became redundant. The vineyards were destroyed to make room for other cash crops.

Downstate there are efforts being made to revive the Illinois wine industry. For those who have driven west and south of St. Louis, there are certainly large expanses of vineyards. So it is not unreasonable to consider Illinois as a grape growing region.

My understanding there are less and less Concord grapes being cultivated. When I was in kindergarten, we lived on a 3/4 acre lot in western Massachusetts with the most fabulous garden. The prior owner was a plumber who built a large grape arbor out of pipe. You could put a table within and be shaded by the grape leaves. You could also reach up and collect the grapes when they were ripe. We lived in this house for no more than 18 months, it is still the move away we regret.

Annually I make Concord grape jam as well as Concord grape pie. The pie is an absolute riot because it stains your teeth purple. Ah the good life.

I'm curious, though, about these white tomatoes of which you speak. I have a battery of heirlooms going this year (some greens, purples, yellows and reds), and I don't remember seeing whites for sale at any of the events I've attended (various late spring horticultural fairs, etc.).

I haven't grown any white tomatoes, but I did buy some from Nichols last year and I agree that the lighter tomatoes have a more subtle flavor. I also agree that it's wonderful to have an array of tomatoes as they can be used so differently. For example, I had a tomato dinner last summer 6 straight tomato courses. I used the delicate white and peach tomatoes for a salad, combining them with a variety of other types and colors - thus highlighting the differences in flavor, texture and the size. On the other end of the spectrum, I made a tomato consomme. For this I used, a purple calabash - the flavor as rich as the color.

I should introduce you to a good friend of mine who typically grows 18-20 varieties on his roof deck. His love of tomatoes is so strong that he named his business Big Tomato Travel. His tomato plants from last year are supposed to be featured in next month's Chicagoland Gardening Magazine. For my dinner, we used mostly his tomatoes, adding in some from the City Farm and from Nichols.

MAG wrote:For example, I had a tomato dinner last summer 6 straight tomato courses.

MAG,

As one of the people who had the pleasure of being at that dinner I can attest that your, and Michael's, tomatoes were incredible, just incredible.

Not only the tomatoes based courses, but the whole dinner. I particularly remember one of the appetizers, mini BLT's. The BLT's were, damn, now I seem to be salivating , made with bread you made, from a starter you grew, topped with bacon you and Mike Cured, and heirloom tomatoes from your garden.

OMG, I really am salivating. (No , really)

In case there is any doubt, like many who participate on LTH, Melissa knows her way around a stove. (Nominated for understatement of the year)

Enjoy,
Gary

MAG wrote:For example, I had a tomato dinner last summer 6 straight tomato courses.

G Wiv wrote:In case there is any doubt, like many who participate on LTH, Melissa knows her way around a stove. (Nominated for understatement of the year)

MAG/Gary:

Unfair to stop there... Consomme, salad, BLT... What were the other three courses?

I'm definitely blushing

My menu book is at home, so I will try to recreate from memory.

Tomato marmalade made with Kellogg's Breakfast Orange Tomatoes paired with an aged goat cheese

Home cured bacon, arugula & Black from Tula tomato sandwiches on brioche

Purple Calabash tomato consomme with a crabmeat & chive garnish

Mixed heirloom tomato salad with pine nuts & parmesan ribbons

Grilled dry aged beef tenderloin with ratatouille made with Marianna's Peace tomatoes (which did not live up to the hype of the "world's tastiest tomatoes")

Tomato sorbet in a parmesan tuile

and the non-tomato courses

White peach gelee with white peach & champagne sorbet with sliced poached white peaches

GWiv can correct me if I'm wrong, but I think we also had some mignardise, but I don't recall what it was.


It was a very fun evening.

New potatoes and English peas. Cooked together slowly in milk.

The rest of the year there's absolutely no reason to pay high prices for little potatoes, just pick your favorite 5 or 10 lb. bag of spuds. And use frozen little peas if you have a yen.

But you cannot cook new potatoes and peas in milk together except in a very certain season.

Actuallly here in Illinois you can't get new potatoes and peas at the same time. The recipe is from my Michigan grandmother, who taught me that you plant peas on St. Paddy's day and potatoes on Good Friday. Michigan is just that much warmer, and the sandy soil lets the pototoes set their underground stems a little sooner.

But so good.

David, some white tomatoes include White Beauty (aka White Snow...ball, I think), Snow White Cherry, Great White Beefsteak & White Wonder, that I can think of. As you imagined, they are quite mild, to me more visually interesting than tasty.

You can get seeds from sources like Totally Tomatoes, Johnny's, Territorial Seeds, maybe Cook's Garden. Not sure about plants themselves.

Snap or snow peas, to add to the list. They become instantly rubbery off the vine and are another item I avoid off-season (including the already mentioned corn, tomatoes, apples, stone fruits, et al).

I grow them myself and am reminded of that this time of the year, when I'm almost happy that they're almost done. You have to eat them every day, and after a while I get sick of them.

Favorite preparation:

peas
toasted sesame oil
toasted sesame seeds
salt

Minus the salt, I saw this in the Barefoot Contessa's cookbook. The salt plays off their sweetness in a way I enjoy. Variations out of boredom include today's dried ancho powder and cumin, yesterday's chipotle/adobo puree, ginger, etc.

I would add English peas to your sugar snap and snow peas. There is almost nothing worse (okay maybe a grainy peach) than a starchy pea.

We did get new potatoes and peas this week at the Farmer's market. First potatoes of the season.

I chopped a bunch of garlic (the last of the soft "green garlic") and put it in a pot with about 1 Tbs each olive oil and water, and simmered it for about 5 mins. Then I added blanched, deshelled favas, and simmered for another 5 minutes, then added boiled tiny new potatoes and blanched sugar peas and blanched asparagus, and a little salt and pepper, heated it all through and served it.

(this went along with some grilled wild Alaskan Sockeye)

Now that's a wonderful spring meal, all you needed were a bit of the last of this season's strawberries.