Thanks to all those who have travelled the mother road from Chicago to St. Louis before me. Here's what we had. I will leave commentary to a minimum, as these spots are all quite well documented. Most are stand-by's on Route 66. And most were quite good.
Springfield:
Cozy Dog -- well-documented high quality fries, burgers and corn dogs (points off for use of standard Oscar Meyer wieners, but the breading is great on the dipped-to-order sausage fritter). God awful frozen patty pork "tenderloin." It's real disservice to this place and Central Illinois to serve that.
Maid Rite -- I am not among the chosen who get this. One small child in our group really liked the loose meat paste schmeared on a straight-from-the-7-11 burger bun. Others did not. Frozen foodservice fries. Interesting as hell historical document of a spot, though, stuck between parking lots near downtown Springfield. Really very expensive, too.
Got in way too late for chili, unfortunately. For some reason I had envisioned the chili parlors of Springfield to be blue-collar bars open late, like ReneG's magnificent stew bar in Indy, "John's Hot Stew." No dice.
Between Springfield and St. Louis:
The Ariston Cafe, Litchfield IL -- Old-timey mining-town roadhouse with good fried chicken, homemade soup, and very nice (albeit not huge) pork tenderloin cut and breaded to order. The Mother Jones monument in nearby Mt. Olive is a nice diversion into a cornfield. This could be the oldest continuously-operating diner on Rt 66 (so says the menu), going back to '24. Didn't try dessert, but the pies and cakes looked spectacular.
St. Louis:
Carl's Drive In -- Yes, as good as Da Beef and many others claim. This place is nuts. A tiny, tiny shack of a spot where the cooking area is enclosed by counters. Scores of people waited inside and outside, quietly, for their burgers, fries and root beer. The people of St. Louis love Carl's. It reminded me of Johnnies in its out of the way, ordinary looking-ness, with the same crowd of fast food pilgrims passing through a place where mortals can glimpse fast food heaven.
The 30's style burgers are about as good as they can get. The grill man smacks down a fresh ball of meat, flattens and spreads it so thinly that the griddle peeks through all over the place. But the grill man knows what he's doing; the meat contracts into a lacy, crunchy disk. The root beer is top notch and super cold. Fries are frozen and just OK, which is almost incomprehensible at a place like this. Carl's staff, long, long-timers all, are real pros. If there's a burger guild, this is a place run by masters and staffed by journeymen. The grill man's like a millwright with his tools, sharpening his spatula on a whetstone every few minutes. That's how you get the crispy, caramelized patties off the well-seasoned griddle intact.
Ted Drewes -- about 4 miles from Carl's, making for a serious 1-2 punch. Nice custard with terrific flavor combos. The chocolate syrup is a treat. It tastes like Bosco to me, which is good. Most in my group gave the edge to Scooter's and WI places in the pure vanilla custard comparison. That said, I like the whole package at Ted Drewes more than any of the other custard places I've sampled.
We also had a few Italian-American meals in St. Louis, following the theory that Ital-Amero is an area of strength there. Trattoria Marcella on Watson Rd. (also close to Ted Drewes) was an unexpected highlight. Wonderful neighborhood place that isn't your typical giant bowl of red sauce and meatballs. Pizzas, liver and pancetta, and pork shank were all excellent. Also, the only "toasted ravioli" I've ever enjoyed. Our waiter was a career guy and one of the best I can remember.
We entered Charlie Gitto's downtown (sibling to an older place "on The Hill") with very, very low expectations. It was packed with Cardinal's fans in town for opening day and families in town for the Women's Final Four. It was not half bad for a bucket-of-pasta and move em' out tourist place. And I mean that in a good way. The room and vibe are like Miller's Pub. Old and cluttered with signed head shots, but all very authentic in its own way.
I really wanted to stop by Del Rhea's on the way back into town for closure, but was vetoed. The joint's 5 minutes from my in-laws, so I folded.
The places without food we visited in order:
Illinois capital (legislators were in session, so we saw sausage made)
Lincoln home (well worth the time)
Lincoln's Tomb (same)
Lincoln Museum (I'm not keen on modern museums with more robots and films than historical artifacts, but this is a good one)
Mother Jones monument
St. Louis Arch ride (minute 2001/Jetsons white pods that zip you to the top are way too cool)
Riverboat tour (gravel pits and Victorian power plants can be lovely,sort of)
Budweiser brewery tour (really very good architecture tour as much as anything else; stunning factory and grounds; plus, after the merger, Belgian beers on tap served in proper glasses at the tour's end -- or Bud Lite if you prefer).