The irony is that I spent Sunday off discovering
an old burger and custard stand in a neighborhood far from home, and came home to find that somewhere in the last few weeks, a burger and custard stand just yards from my house, which I had eaten at dozens of times, had closed. And I never even got a picture of the food before it was gone.
Man-Jo-Vin's was a quintessential neighborhood burger stand, not a faux one with oldies playing (I don't believe I ever once heard music there), not a beautifully preserved vintage one (at some point it was redone in tacky 80s dusty rose and aqua), but a real one, a working class stand offering food real enough for guys in jumpsuits with their name on the front and their company's name on the back, but clean and well run enough that as Roscoe Village yuppified, moms with kids never felt the slightest hesitation about bringing their kids over from the park next door.
The signage proclaimed an elaborate list of menu items, including chicken (which I'm not sure they ever had in my memory), pizza (terrible and usually dried out in a display case; they ditched it a year or two ago), and Italian beef (which I should have tried and never did). But everyone knew what they were there for, dogs and burgers, and that's what they dished up all day.
The burgers were larger than my canonical "30s style," but otherwise true to form most of the time-- grilled onions, ketchup pickle and mustard. Alongside them came fresh-cut fries, far superior to the frozen ones you almost always find in similar places these days. Now, having said that, the truth is that over the years both the burger and the fries would sometimes fall below what they were supposed to be. The burger with "everything" would arrive with something that didn't belong, like lettuce or-- once, nightmarishly-- mayo. The fries would be ill-cooked by some young hiree who had no idea how to do fries right, and you'd get raw-centered potato grease sponges. But 90% of the time over the years, it was one of the better burger and fries meals to be had in Chicago. The film critic Andre Bazin described Budd Boetticher's
Seven Men From Now as "the most intelligent and least intellectual of westerns." Man-Jo-Vin's burger was like that.
Testaments to the deceased:
http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p=1743#1743
http://www.lthforum.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p=4873#4873
http://www.chowhound.com/midwest/boards ... 15432.html
http://www.chowhound.com/midwest/boards ... 12205.html [note that the original exposition on the "30s-style burger" follows shortly after this one]
Man-Jo-Vin's
Damen, just north of Belmont
R.I.P.
Condos coming soon