Oh, the joy of discovery!
The thing that completely baffles me is the lack of posts about this place. The Lovely Dining Companion took me here for dinner the other night and it’s one of the best dinners we’ve had in quite some time. Service was absolutely excellent—among the very best. These people care and, what’s even more important to us, they are genuine. The food was inventive, offbeat (by which I mean unexpected combinations, mostly), beautiful, and delicious. There was no course less than very good and some were among those I’d consider the best I’ve had anywhere at any time. Best and most amazing of all is that this is all delivered at an astonishing price point. I consider our dinner on a par with meals we’ve had at both Grace and Alinea—albeit different. I am excited to return.
The restaurant is, as has been noted several places, not easy to find. It’s in an alley between Lake and Fulton, very close to the corner of Union. nsxtasy’s picture above is useful but only if you’re coming from the west. If, as I suspect will be true for most people, you’re coming from the east, Oriole is all the way down the block, on the left (south) side of the street. The entryway is nineteenth-century industrial (the building was once a glue factory). Walk in and directly in front of you are heavy iron elevator doors, the kind that open horizontally, not vertically. Our welcome was warm and, unlike many other places, seemed absolutely genuine. As we chatted, our hostess mixed up a welcome drink for each of us. I asked for the ingredients twice because I enjoyed it so much. But writing all this time later, I can only recall tequila and chartreuse. My apologies.
The entire staff, it seems, took the time before we showed up to learn about us AND remember it: they knew what we were celebrating. Most places will confirm LDC’s no-alcohol restriction and her one culinary restriction. But although everyone asks if you’re celebrating anything and dutifully enter your answer in the book, very few places ever read the book. Comments from the servers—not just our primary server but others as well—made clear that they knew what was going on. What was a true pleasure was the absolute “realness” of virtually every person we spoke with. It’s a young staff (from chefs to servers to others) and they more than held their own with professionals with decades of experience. That alone made it a true pleasure to be there.
ABOUT 50% OF THE FLOOR
I include this crappy picture solely to give a sense of the room at Oriole. You can see fully half the floor in this shot (actually, a bit more than 50%). The room is small. I counted ten two tops and three other tables. The amount of space around each table is exceptionally generous. Whether we were given a four top set for two because of our celebration or the luck of the evening’s reservations, I don’t know, but I cannot recall having this much room on a table. Ever. And there is lots and lots of space for the servers to walk; the amount of empty space in the room is very nearly beyond belief. I think it adds to the ambiance, frankly; it encourage relaxation. Though all the surfaces are hard, noise was never an issue—even when the room was 95% full.
ABOUT 50% OF THE KITCHEN
Speaking of tiny rooms: this is the kitchen. Really! There’s another side equally spartan and of exactly the same size for the pastry chef. We debated at length whether there was a prep kitchen in a space behind that we could not see and I never seemed to remember to ask the server. But the amount of room for the kitchen staff is extraordinarily small. Granted, a room that seats about 30 people, max, doesn’t need a full-size kitchen, but this is probably the smallest kitchen you’ve seen, or could even imagine.
Last note: serving ware. There are places that spend a lot of money and attention on serving ware. I don’t reject the value of doing so. But I know that I shared a reaction with LDC midway through the meal that encapsulates my feelings: the serving ware here is nice (and is some cases, truly wonderful). But it never takes center stage; it never draws attention away from the food like I feel it can at other places. The dishes, bowls, plates, and so forth are right for showcasing the food but the spotlight is on the food, not the items in which it is served.
The food. We got off to a slightly slow start—we waited about half an hour after being seated for anything to appear. In fairness, we were the very first table to be seated (a number of folks came in right after us, though). And once the first plate appeared, pacing was impeccable. Indeed, I can’t recall better pacing anywhere. We were never rushed and the next course always appeared after a slight pause. (One of my enduring memories of Eleven Madison Park, frankly, despite the stellar food, was that new courses appeared almost the instant that the previous course was cleared. I hated that…and it STILL took us over four hours. I’ve found the same is often true at a number of places in Chicago as well.) Our server may (or may not) have been the sommelier, but he knew every wine on the list (admittedly not terribly long) in detail and gave excellent advice. [PS: I just discovered that our server was, in fact, Aaron McManus, formerly sommelier at Intro Chicago. No wonder!] I’ve preferred a couple glasses to pairings for a number of years now: I find that pairings, though they can be excellent and well-curated, are often too much alcohol and that I can’t recall more than one or two of them at best. My choices were a Sancerre for the first half of dinner and a St. Joseph (largely syrah) for the latter (savory) few courses.
GOLDEN OSETRA CAVIAR—
tomato sorbet, crème fraîche and sea grapeWhat an intriguing introduction to dinner. The tomato sorbet, a wholly unexpected complement, matched with the classic crème fraiche, to create a lovely introduction to a dinner filled with surprises.
LANGOUSTINE—
shio kombu, rhubarb and mintPresented as an egg roll, this was an intriguing dish. It is, in fact, one of the few dishes of the evening that I wish had been larger so that I could finally decide what I thought. I enjoyed what was presented, but in the event the roll was about 1½ inches long and, much as I enjoyed it, I would have appreciated another bite because the combination was unusual. Indeed, that is one of the things I most enjoyed about the whole evening: unusual and unexpected combinations of flavors as well as textures. Here, a second bite would, I think, have helped me make up my mind. Given my overall pleasure from most every other course, I cannot help but think that a second bite would have confirmed my happiness with this course as well.
MADAI NIGIRI—
yuzu kosho and genmai powderRed sea bream. One of the courses that I found truly extraordinary. A fairly simple preparation highlighting the quality of each ingredient and, though I wondered when it was first set down, the sprinkling of genmaicha (roasted brown rice and green tea…rice krispies are the closest analog I can imagine) on top was a genius touch. It added both crunch and unique flavor and I thought the course easily one of the best of the night, or longer.
BEAUSOLEIL OYSTER—
ibérico consommé and finger limeI’m not an oyster guy but even I could tell that this was a top-notch plate. I found the jamon iberico consomme a wonderful and unusual complement and I liked the course far more than I anticipated I would.
JAMÓN IBÉRICO DE BELLOTA—
black walnut, egg yolk and campo de montalban[Apologies for yet another in a series of abysmal pictures]
What’s not to love here? Even had the portion of jamon been smaller, this was a knockout dish. But the kitchen was quite generous and the whole readily added up to more than the sum of the parts. (Campo de montalban is an aged Spanish cheese of milks from cows, sheep, and goats.)
and
HUDSON VALLEY FOIE GRAS—
tiny strawberries, pink peppercorn “cracker,” and chanterelleThis was one dish I felt slightly let down by. Although the description had my mouth watering, it didn’t quite seem to come together in the way I expected. The sum of the parts was the sum of the parts, not more. Don’t misunderstand: as with all the courses, the quality of the ingredients is exceptional and I enjoyed the course…I guess I expected to be blown away and I wasn’t. So an A+ instead of an A++.
ALASKAN KING CRAB—
watermelon and nuóc mâmBrilliant pairings arrive ensconced in a small bowl. Server proceeds to pour in a very light spring onion “soup.” Wow. I don’t think there’s much more to add.
SOURDOUGH—
cultured butter and local grainsI had kinda missed having some bread on the table and when this arrived, I was hopeful…though I’ll admit to being a little offput by the heavy sprinkling of wheat berries and barley. As soon as I put it in my mouth I realized that this was an absolutely stellar thing. Perfect bread, perfect butter (made in-house) and the wheat berries put it over the top. Bread and butter, yeah. But one of the most extraordinary things of the entire evening.
CAPELLINI—
australian winter truffle, rye berry and yeastOne of the very best courses of the evening. Once it was set down and explained, I’ll confess to a little let-down. Hmmm. Pasta, huh? Looks a little…uninteresting. Then chef comes out and grates a very generous portion of truffle on top. Okay, unprepossessing looking pasta with a lot of truffle. Hmmm. But the proof is in the pudding (an odd expression, if you ask me). And once this landed in my mouth: perfection. I cannot recall a single better dish in the past year, perhaps longer. Beyond rich. Beyond full of flavor. Perfection…or very damn close.
JAPANESE A5 WAGYU—
charred little gem lettuce, furikake and sesame leafFor me, another one of the “merely” A+ dishes. For LDC, this course knocked it out of the park.
LAMB BELLY—
huckleberry, rapini and chermoulaLDC is not a fan of lamb. The better for me. Not sure I’ve ever had lamb belly and this was a lovely introduction. I enjoyed the interplay of ingredients and liked the dish, but this was not one of the hits of the evening.
PISTACHIO GELATO—
seedling farm peach and elderflowerI cannot imagine a course featuring a pistachio ice-cream, pistachio gelato, or pistachio custard doing anything other than pleasing me enormously. This course was no exception. The gelato was lovely and enjoyable. As was the peach. My sole reservation relates to the combination. While they certainly did not oppose each other, I guess I’m just not completely convinced that they were a match made in heaven either.
GIANDUJA—
pretzel lavash, raclette and black currant It may not have tickled LDC’s taste buds but I thought it was superb. The little pretzel lavash was the perfect counterpoint to the startling array of goodies spread across the top. How to sample everything, was the problem. Taking a tiny taste of each seemed silly and yet how else to appreciate each component? But I decided to just take the plunge and bite off half the lavash. Heaven on a “stick.”
CHICORY CUSTARD—
whiskey, cinnamon and tahitian vanillaVery enjoyable. I’m a fan of bitter things and even I would never have guessed that one could enjoy a custard made from this bitter root. The pairings were pretty classic but after a meal that left me fairly well sated, this was a pleasure in every way: texture, lightness, and flavor. A delight.
ALMOND CROISSANT—
rose, cardamom and acacia honeyTruth to tell, the LDC is still having trouble getting past the idea of a croissant for dessert. Certainly not a “standard” almond croissant. And, frankly, all the better for precisely that reason. Small yet wonderful. I could have stood just a bit more almond flavor, but that’s probably me. An offbeat, yet completely successful course.
CHOCOLATE PASSIONFRUIT PIE
Now
this is what a mignardise should be. Actually, more in the nature of a lagniappe. But what the hell. After dinner ended, we were presented with small, bakery “to-go” boxes. Nestled inside, a perfect little pie. Absolutely gorgeous, as I hope the picture attests. I had several bites of crust first and this is pie, ladies and gentlemen. Now I like passionfruit and I like chocolate and although this turned out to be better than I anticipated, I still have to confess that I don’t think that these two complement each other. This is not, at least in my book, a match made in heaven. That said, I’d love to see what other kinds of pies their dessert chef/kitchen can whip up.
Two and a half hours after it began, this startlingly good dinner ends. No wonder that
Phil Vettel and
Jeff Ruby agree—this is, barely half a year after opening, a four star place and Chicago's next great restaurant. In the precisely on-point words of Mr. Gary Wiviott: “Oriole, count me a fan!”
Last edited by
Gypsy Boy on September 24th, 2016, 8:38 am, edited 4 times in total.
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)