Attention: spoiler alert.
I'd almost be tempted to come back tonight if those are Salon dinner tickets I didn't have any plans...
We were part of the first table seated at the reborn Alinea on opening night. I can't tell you
exactly in words (well I'll try...) how different it really is but still distinctly and recognizably Alinea. The Gallery dinner experience is something extremely unique and unlike anything I have ever experienced before (the experimental aspect perhaps slightly overstated by press/misunderstood). Our reservation was at 5:30 and we were advised to show up on time otherwise we run the risk of not being part of the whole experience, so we showed up early. Another couple showed up about 15-20 minutes late and they were still part of it -- though don't consider that license to show up late on my accord...! I really did feel, upon sitting down, like I was visiting Alinea for the first time in a totally different way. Not like I was visiting it's brother or sister but perhaps it's cousin.
The Gallery is all truly seated together, at once, for the first part of dinner. Nick was in-house and greeting people and profusely thanking us all for coming in. You are part of a large sixteen person table and part of your first course is already sitting on the table when you arrive (it's the little touches like this that feel familiar). Champagne is poured as people arrive and while everyone gets settled. It's candlelit and dim, but not dark, and there's wonderful classical music playing at a comfortable volume. The vibe matches the first course - which is traditional caviar service with accompaniments and brioche. Very tasty, and not a small canapé but a composed and somewhat substantial dish! Not a bad way to start! The whole table was basically comprised of friends of the restaurant and prior diners -- I'd imagine slightly less (or maybe not?!) pressure for the entire team.
The curve balls began when, after the first course, we were asked to get up and invited to come into the kitchen. One entire stretch of counter space was cleared to make way for us all. There was a single-bite course waiting for us. Grant, Mike Bagale, Micah Melton from Aviary, and Simon Davies had a few words to share and they pointed out some of the differences in the kitchen. They then had an eighteenth century designed mechanical cocktail shaker (very cool! I actually got to be the lucky guest who turned the wheel!) and made us a Gin Fizz cocktail to sip on and linger for a few minutes. We were then all escorted back to the dining room, by party, and to our surprise... returned to find the long sixteen person table gone and replaced with individual 2 and 4 person tables. Lights were on and the music was not present... at this point, the parade of dishes began.
All of the food was totally new and different. Not one course was the same. Black Truffle Explosion, Hot Potato/Cold Potato, aromatic pillow course, swinging bacon course... all of the Alinea classics were gone. The only things in theory that remain are the helium balloon course, but it's a different flavor. An iteration of table side dessert remains, but gone is the tablecloth and the flavors are totally reinvented.
The flavor profiles of the dishes are decidedly Alinea -- bold and explorative, but stricken with a balance of being palatable to diners that may not be always interested in that. There were Japanese flavor profiles - a course early on with notes of scallop and sweet corn broth. One course had a theme of "yellow" which was a heavily manipulated and oh so amazing piece of sweet potato with a bunch of accoutrements including flowers and sunflower seeds. There was a course with Mexican flavor profiles and a Mezcal shot and open fire/smoke -- this one was a favorite of mine. There were playful things too like a cotton candy course -- this was actually a two part course including the new Strawberry taffy helium balloon. I swear -- there is no
soigne way to eat that balloon... Sure as heck is fun though.
I can't recall the exact number of courses, but the experience was close to four hours and we definitely left full. If one tried to be critical and draw a line from what they were serving there in 2005-2015, they would overall be hard pressed to do so past the balloon and broad concept of table side dessert. Gone are the thirty course days of Alinea. The food is overall, at first glance, not as complex as it used to be... Whereas you would sometimes get a dish highlighting ten or more flavors (I recall once a ceviche dish having fourteen different flavors and textures), most of these dishes had anywhere from four flavors to maybe eight or nine, max.
As someone who "understands" Alinea's food and experience, there is really a whole lot more to the experience now, past the food. I always used to stand by their philosophy of "Alinea is not a restaurant" and I still very much do, but I'd describe the efforts of the reborn Alinea to be highly choreographed and show like--that phrase now has a totally different meaning. The food is still very much the focus, but even more action is happening behind the scenes and in the periphery. The music, the plate ware, the interaction (not too much, just enough to be fun -- it's not work!) on the part of the diner, the movement throughout the spaces and transformation of the room (from 1 course being communal to the rest traditional and seated)... it's all very new and exciting. I have not before been to a restaurant that seeks to create this kind of experience. It is very sophisticated and as always, totally lacks pretense. That itself is a familiar feel too. And for anyone wondering -- there was not a poet or violinist at last night's dinner.
I think overall that they ripped it apart and threw it away just enough to the point where there is a balance of newness and innovation and also familiarity. This is still Alinea and not it's brother or sister, but perhaps it's mature cousin. The familiarity aspect will make you smile and say "oh that's SO Alinea." You will not be disappointed that you just spent $1,000 for something that you've already experienced -- because trust me you have not experienced something like this before.
As I am sure some oenophiles are curious -- there's three beverage pairings offered -- standard ($215), reserve ($295) and the Alinea pairing ($415). They won't always offer the Alinea pairing, apparently, as it's comprised of highly rare and hard to get bottles. Also - all three pairings were straight wine and no sake or beer. I rarely opt for beverage pairings, but did for this dinner (standard) and was not disappointed -- Domestic, French, Austrian, Australian, and German offerings comprised the flight for the evening.
I, of course, cannot wait to return and try the Salon dinner and see what the more traditional, and slightly abridged offering is. The dinner was worth it on the first night of service, and I am sure they will tweak a few things, so even though great immediately, it will only get better. I nervously and anxiously approached this dinner due to how delightful it used to be, but it's really great to have the place back in it's new design. I do think with all of the newness as well as the variety of offerings that they will get some folks going in who were put off, skeptical of the experience and not wanting to commit, or wanted something more.
Do enjoy if you go, because it is a distinctly fun and delicious experience - in a new way!
"People are too busy in these times to care about good food. We used to spend months working over a bonne-femme sauce, trying to determine just the right proportions of paprika and fresh forest mushrooms to use." -Karoly Gundel, Blue Trout and Black Truffles: The Peregrinations of an Epicure, Joseph Wechsberg, 1954.