I enjoyed the killer dinner that BR organized this week. And though I punished myself with the spice– and they don't hold back here– it was one of my favorite Thai meals, probably ever.
What excites me the most about this kitchen is their way with deeply developed sauces. Despite our glut of great Thai in town, I've quietly wished for more stand out saucy curry options. With the exception of Sticky Rice's Gang hung lay (which was a shadow of its former self on my last few visits) my other favorite curry dishes around town are dry (or dryish) like Aroy's Chu chee, Rainbow's Hor muk, and Andy's/TAC's Prik king. Even my favorite top tier spots seem to dilute the canned paste in coconut milk for their everyday menu curries. What I've tried here is clearly home made.
The sauces here are fiery, indeed, but also layered, complex, and rich. Broths too. My favorite dish of this meal was, I believe, our second course (of 16), a preview of new "winter" menu item ~how cool is the fact that they offer seasonal menus! The soup was described by the owner as a tom yum fortified with cream, dairy not coconut. It had nice chunks of fried fish (which seems to be their star protein across the menu). To me, it was curry-like, very rich and thick from the cream but wildly aromatic, funky, and spicy from I'm guessing a judicious hand with shrimp and chile pastes. Just freakin awesome.
The bamboo curry was probably my number two. Funky, sour, and hot. It was a bit thin on protein, but with the abundant rustic chunks of bamboo, it was substantial. The fish ball curry was another top notch saucy curry dish served in components- noodles, curry, garnish for each diner to custom compose. The balls themselves, home made and ordered in advance (for those of us who got to taste enough of them
) had great springy texture and a potent fish forward-ness. The crispy fish in curry definitely is of the
crack category, employing their masterful fried fish, which although decadently delicious makes me ask if its too much of a good thing. Same for the fried chicken wings in penang curry, which came kind of late in the meal for their dialed up intensity. Probably a bad idea, but I could not keep my hands off of these and I got burnt. All of these sauced/ brothed dishes were at the top of my list.
These guys also have a way with the wok. I'll let others chime in about the Bbq pork fried rice, a seemingly sleeper of a dish, which I thought was as good of a version as I've had with ample wok hay and a spiced up and soured flavor profile that leaves Cantonese stuff in the dust. I've never been much of a Pad thai guy, but this is one of the better versions, with similar attributes to the fried rice. The other noodle- based sleeper is the Baked shrimp with clear noodles with a nice sesame oil profile and some surprising dolsot- esque crispy, toasty noodles on the bottom of the pot.
As in my first visit, there seems to be weak spots on this menu (which were ordered in a far lesser ratio on this visit). The beef dishes were just not fresh tasting, with off-the-line rubbery stir fry meat. And the Hor muk, which might be a good dish if we didn't have such elegant, nuanced versions to compare to this relatively ham-fisted chunky version.
But overall, I'm now ready to add this place to the pantheon of my Thai rotation, a set of restaurants that serve some of my very favorite foods in Chicago.