A group of us had dinner at El Ideas last Friday and had an outstanding meal. I had only dined at El Ideas once before, and while I really enjoyed that evening, I didn't recall being enamored with everything I ate (although the meal was no doubt very good). But my first meal was immediately after the departure of Andrew Brochu, and whether El Ideas would like to admit it or not, I cannot imagine a restaurant this small losing a chef and feeling no impact in the days immediately following that chef's departure. But that was a long time ago. And immediately after Friday night's dinner, I regretted not having been to El Ideas for so long.
Our menu for the evening:
Smoked scallop with trout roe, tosaka, sesame and quinceA fantastic start to the evening - a little fishy, a little smoky, a little savory and a little sweet, and just a really great balance of flavors.
Rib eye - black pepper, marrow, radish and nasturtiumThe rib eye itself was just perfect, but then you add in the marrow and it just took the dish to a much higher level. And I loved the fresh and floral flavors from the radish and nasturtium as well as the spice from the black pepper. This was as good a raw beef dish as I could ever imagine.
Baquette - parsnip, napa cabbage, cilantro and smokeI don't remember the fish here, but it was very nicely cooked. If there was one thing I didn't love about the dish it was the texture of the cabbage around the fish. But all of the flavors were really nice.
Bass - cranberry bean, chard, pepper and cauliflowerThis was very good, but not one of my favorites - perhaps just a tad sweet for my tastes, but I heard others at the table raving about it.
The chefs plating the next dish, and readying the following dish too.
Squid - coconut, buddha's hand, basil, pork belly, curryI pretty much loved everything about this dish. There was some sweetness, but it was so well balanced. And I'm a sucker for coconut. The rich pork flavor and hint of citrus really elevated this course.
This was not a listed menu item - really, how could it be!!! No, it's actually sugar . . . with lime and coconut I think? I can't recall precisely . . . but my nose knows.
Squab - snail, kohlrabi, black garlic, shiitake, togarashiThe squab was so tender, perfectly cooked and so delilcious. Add in a little spice, a little funky sweetness and the earthy flavors of shiitake and you've got a serious home run - just fantastic.
Buttermilk - quinine, blood orange and lemongrassTasty and refreshing for sure, but I got slightly bored after a few bites.
Ham and cheese - bellotta, truffle, fonduta and breadChef Foss described this as the chefs' favorite menu item. It was also my favorite. In fact, one of the best courses I've ever had, anywhere. Every element was perfect including the potato roll, which was slightly like a biscuit (and incorporated butter) which made it even more perfect. Chef Foss suggested that he was almost slightly embarrassed about serving this course because it didn't require as much cooking, but this dish showed off a combination of the right ingredients and the perfect ratios of those ingredients. And the fontina cheese was the perfect bridge for all of these flavors. El Ideas should never be able to take this dish off the menu. Words cannot express just how great this dish was.
Waldorf - Celeriac, walnut, pear, fourme d'ambert, raisinSimply put, the best Waldorf salad you could imagine, thanks in no small part to the wonderful blue cheese.
Elk - blue oyster, potato, mustard, duck liver pateAnother absolutely stunning dish and fantastic flavors - rich, gamy, earthy, a little tart - just perfect. One small bit of my elk (which was just perfectly cooked) was over-salted, but a tiny blemish. This was my second favorite dish of the night.
Egg yolk - caramelized white chocolate, burnt orange, bananaNice flavors - I enjoyed this dish, but overall I found the sweets on the menu didn't live up to the savories (I'll touch on this again).
Three of the chefs preparing the next dessert with liquid nitrogen.
Cheesecake - dulce de leche, chocolate, sunflower, grahamI enjoyed this dish, but got a bit bored after a while.
Salty balls to finish the evening.
Overall, a really outstanding meal and one of the best tasting menus I've enjoyed in the city. And I love the way the menu seems to change frequently - very impressive. They obviously take a lot of pride in the creative process and I really appreciate that as a diner. And the vibe of the place is just terrific - you just feel so welcomed and it's so relaxed, and I love the eclectic mix of music.
The only thing I find that holds El Ideas back slightly is in the sweets department -- I feel the same way about Elizabeth and I suspect the lack of someone dedicated exclusively to pastry is the issue. The savory elements of the menu were almost all outstanding but the sweets, while good to very good, just fell a little short of that excellence in terms of flavors and textures. I suspect most people won't mind this but I am a fan of sweets and love to see what some of the top pastry chefs in town put forth. Still, an absolutely fantastic meal and I'm excited to return soon, especially knowing that the menu will undoubtedly change.