Two dinners here last week were excellent and completely obliterated my expectations. Several dishes were truly impressive. The
dolsot bibimbop transcended just about every version I've ever had in a "traditional" Korean restaurant. For me, this dish is often an exercise in bland but at Parachute, the contrasting flavors were explosive and wonderful. I loved how the tart spiciness of the gochujang foiled the richness of the tender chunks of shortrib. And, given the venue, it was a clever play to encounter such a traditionally Western prep on the shortrib, because almost every version of shortrib I've ever had at a Korean restaurant is basically kalbi. Here, it was unctuous and a perfect match for the rest of the dish. It was also, by far, the most impressive and delicious nurungji I've ever encounted. This crust was thick, intensely toasty and golden brown, and it stayed satisfyingly crispy until our dolsot had not a speck of food left in it.
Other spectacular dishes were the house
pickles (served as a group of 3), especially the "sichuan peanut celery" portion, which is far and away the best celery I've ever eaten. The kimchi was also awesome, as was the "watermelon radish zuke." The baked potato
bing bread (bacon, scallion and sour cream butter) was as delectable as it sounds but it is filling, so if you're trying a bunch of other items, as we did, a half-order is probably enough for 3-4 people.
Pork belly and mung bean pancake (kimchi, black garlic, hen egg, pineapple),
roasted asparagus and shiitake mandu (lebneh, almonds),
steak tartare (Chinese mustard, salsify, capers),
boudin noir (nam phrik, peanut, crispy rice, spearmint, endive, coconut yogurt),
cold buckwheat noodle (heirloom lettuces, cucumber, deviled egg salad, pine nuts, chilled kimchi broth),
hand torn noodle (spicy lamb sofrito, sichuan peppercorn, cumin),
salt and pepper pork ribs (yuzu kosho, honey, shiso), all overdelivered in terms of deliciousness and inventiveness. There's not one of these dishes I wouldn't enthusiastically order again.
The ribs, for example, were textbook. They were lightly crusty on the outside, very moist throughout and had just enough seasoning to accentuate the pork without overpowering it. Their texture was exemplary. The meat was not falling off the bone, but perfectly tuggable. It's rare to find ribs cooked this well in a restaurant (or any) setting. Even a seemingly innocuous dish of
slow cooked chicken (snap peas, wood ear mushroom, horseradish, rhubarb) was so much more than its imaginative composition and skilled execution. And the sauce, made from pureed chicken liver, took this dish from great to exceptional.
I didn't love everything. I thought the
kampachi ceviche (green strawberry, sesame salad, fennel) had a bit too much going on and the fish was obscured by it. With the olive oil-poached
lemon fish (new potatoes, cucumber-seaweed dashi, smoked wheatberries), I loved the meaty texture of the perfectly cooked fish but didn't feel that the accompanying elements matched up very well with it. The impressively massive
hot pot (spicy crab broth and wild gulf shrimp, with rice cakes, cherry stone clams, black radish and crown daisy) not only had a presence attack
but also offered a tremendously tasty and rich broth. The whole, shell-on shrimp were sensational but the clams were very large and a bit tough. These are mostly nitpicks because at least a couple of my dining companions really enjoyed these dishes.
On the drink side, there are 3 cocktails offered. I tried the #2 (Smith & Cross rum, Batavia Arrack, lemon, allspice dram, mint), which was served swizzle-style in a collins glass. It was refreshing, nicely-balanced and paired well with the food. A Bockor "Vanderghinste" oud brun also well went with several of the dishes. And pours of Pure Kentucky bourbon fit in nicely, as well.
On the dessert side, I tried 3 of the 4 and really enjoyed 2 of them. The
pat bing su (cucumber ice, condensed milk ice cream, red bean, kiwi, lovage) was a lot of fun. The flavors were excellent and it was a refreshing dessert that ended the meal nicely. The
napoleon (black sesame bavarian cream, yuzu curd, brown butter) was delicious and disappeared almost instantly. The brown butter was in the form of a powder that was so intoxicating, we were tempted to lick the plate to get it all. We also had the chamomile
chocolate pudding (malted milk, chocolate sable), which didn't do it for me quite the way the other 2 desserts did.
Service was excellent. Everyone in the restaurant is friendly, helpful and enthusiastic. No question we had went unanswered. It seemed like everyone on the staff knew a tremendous amount about every component in every dish. It's a relatively small space and in addition to a chef's counter, there's also a communal island in the center of the space. I liked being at the communal island but the stools there were, for me, pretty darned uncomfortable. For a smaller (aka normal-sized) person, this probably wouldn't be the case but I greatly preferred sitting in a standard chair at one of the tables on the west wall of the restaurant.
All too often high-end, chef-driven versions of ethnic places -- often erroneously referred to as "elevated" -- fall disappointingly short, but Parachute was refreshing because these cheffed-up takes were so much more delicious and distinctive than what one typically finds at some neighborhood Korean spots. In fact, it's probably only a fair comparison based on what I expected. One doesn't need to eat very much at Parachute before realizing that they're aiming a lot higher here -- and they're hitting the mark repeatedly and with precision.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain