Dear BillVol,
Bienvenido! and thanks for your posts so far.
I used to live in Santiago too, for about ten years, so I particularly enjoyed your comments about keeping an eye out for Chilean food.
Compared to what Chicago has to offer, I do not miss Chile's idea of hot dogs (
) or pizza (
), but I heartily agree about the bread. It was great to be able to pop into any of half a dozen places on a walk home from work -- even at bakeries in shopping hallways in the subway stations -- and buy high-quality bread every day. There are of course some great bakeries in the Chicago area (I live in the northern suburbs); but it does require a car and a hunt; not the same thing as just buying it on the way home every day. I didn't need to worry about the waistline consequences of eating bread so frequently because I walked
so much more there than I do here.
That said, at least while I was there, Chile held the world record for highest per capita consumption of carbonated beverages, and I didn't go along with them on that. If Chile's unofficial food motto is "mayo con todo!" its unofficial beverage motto is "Coca-Cola con todo!" But then, the summers are longer and hotter and drier there than they are here.
I also miss Chile's great big beef empanadas, with hard-boiled egg and golden raisins and mayo and avocado sauce on tap for dipping---I never went to the Jumbo hipermarcado wthout a stop at the empanada bar, and the ceviche-and-wine bar too!
I miss Chilean fried seafood empanadas too, but I especially miss the baked beef empanadas. Appetizer-size Argentinean/Colombian fried, often cheese-filled, empanadas, are available at some places in Chicago, and they're very tasty, great happy hour treats, but they're different.
I particularly miss a certain bakery at the Rotunda Tomas Moro that sold huge quantities of empanadas on Sunday mornings. They sold them all week long but cranked out a lot on Sundays, and people (including me) lined up to get boxes of a half dozen or a dozen or more, the way people buy boxes of doughnuts in the US, either to stock up for the week or for a Sunday lunch with family. It wasn't that long ago --- when I first started living there, and perhaps back when you did --- that there were no shopping malls in Chile and practically no stores open on Sunday, so Sunday afternoons revolved not around going out shopping and errand-running but rather staying home or visiting family members' homes and eating long afternoon lunches. Sometimes at such family gatherings, empanada making becomes a group project (for those who had not stopped off at La Panaderia Tomas Moro): someone to cook the beef and prepare the fillings, someone to prepare the dough, someone to fold up the empanadas, somone to swap them in and out of the oven; cheers from the dining room when another batch was served.
I also miss produce sellers at red lights. Here, avocados cost $1 a piece; asparagus costs upwards of $2 a pound; in the summer in Santiago, you stop at a red light and roll down your window and someone will step off the curb and sell you a bag of ten avocados or an equally large bag of asparagus for the equivalent of about a dollar. Or, if you're in the mood for it on a hot summer day, any kind of ice cream/frozen chocolate/frozen fruit treat you need to cool off, for about 20 cents, before the light changes.
There used to be one Chilean restaurant on the north side of Chicago, but sadly, it has closed, so I don't think there's any source in Chicago right now for specifically Chilean empanadas. I used to buy pebre by the quart there; now I make batches of it at home and eat it on good bread with butter -- sometimes that's my whole meal. And of course, in the winter, pastel de choclo.
Chicago is not alone in this dearth of Chilean cuisine. I look for it when I'm travelling and very rarely find it. I once had some time to hunt around in New York City and found and ate at the only Chilean restaurant there* (Pomaire; sadly, it's closed now too). I think there may be one or two Chilean restaurants in, say, the Miami area, but that's about it. (*Updated to add that there appear to be some pan-Latin cuisine places in NYC that serve, among other things, Chilean empanadas, but as far as I know there is not a dedicated Chilean restaurant in NYC any more.)
There's a Chilean woman who now lives in Texas who has a food blog, and a few Chilean food blogs, including one that aggregates recipes from other Chilean sites. I can send you some recipe and blog links, if you're ever interested.
All I can do for now is prepare Chilean dishes at home. And now you've prompted me to launch an empanada-making project.
"Your swimming suit matches your eyes, you hold your nose before diving, loving you has made me bananas!"