Yes indeed, a very,
very good burger.
We were in the neighborhood for a show at the Old Town School of Folk Music, and rather than our usual Spoon outing when in that neighborhood, we decided to try the other end of Lincoln Square and cross another GNR off our list.
We started with a Montepulciano for SueF and a Barritt's Ginger Beer for me (I'll comment on the Barritts in the Drink board, short answer, good but not my fave) -- the Montepulciano continued to cement my opinion that Italian wines are best suited to my palate.
This was followed with the goat cheese fondue -- a very generous portion of cheese with toasty rosemary focaccia, lots of onions or shallots in the cheese. Very tasty.
But we were there for the burgers. We split a Chupacabra and an Edmund Fig-Gerald. Both were ordered and received nicely medium rare.
The Chupacabra is listed as having goat chili, but it's more of a finely shredded braise than the saucy stuff I associate with chili -- and that's a good thing, as it sticks to the burger. Very tasty, rich and meaty, this is a winner. A little more spice and sour would be to my tastes (some citrus or vinegar in a salsa, perhaps), but this is an awesome sandwich.
The Fig-Gerald is also delicious -- the figgy bacon jam is a no-fail topping (reminds me of the sandwich at Floriole)... but I think I preferred the Chup.
I'm divided on the fries: I like the dark cook, but I'd have preferred a little more crispiness. Not fond of the house-made ketchup (I'm imprinted on Heinz), but the truffle fries were very good.
The verdict: Owen & Engine is beefier, and a more straightforward, juicy burger: if you want the pure essence of burger, go there. I definitely prefer BA to Kuma's at this point: more flavorful, not packed to the gills, and quieter.
What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
-- Lin Yutang