The extremely short list of places where I will willingly wait 2+ hours for a table has now officially doubled, from 1 to 2. Until this weekend, Mosca's in Avondale, LA was the only place on this list of mine. It's been the only place on the list for 30 years and I never thought that list would ever expand (at my age, 2+ hours is a measurable percentage of the time I have left
) However, after waiting for about 2 hours for a table on Friday, I can now add Fat Rice to the list. I knew full well that it'd be insane walking in there at around 8 pm on a Friday evening but on the heels of WhiskyFest, along with a couple of friends -- including one who'd never been there before -- it seemed like the right call, anyway. And it was. Our dinner was sensational and the wait in the new waiting area was actually quite lovely, too.
I've been to Fat Rice about a half-dozen times now and those visits have almost always been during the week, which usually makes it a lot mellower when I show up. Once recently, a very nice friend got there ahead of us and waited for our table. By the time we arrived, the wait to be seated was only a few minutes. Another time, my wife and I drove by at 9:55 pm, decided to stop and were rewarded with 2 near-immediate seats at the bar. But now the secret's out. Fat Rice is about to ascend to its rightful place at the very top of Chicago's already fantastic dining scene. Throw in the great weather on a Friday evening and well . . . the only surprise would have been if the wait was shorter than 2 hours.
We waited at the door for a few minutes because it was so slammed that they actually needed a few minutes just to assess how long the wait would actually be. During that time, we were told frequently that they'd let us know asap and that they didn't want to mislead us. After not too long, we were told that it would be at least 2 hours but that there was room in the waiting area and that if parties ahead of us bailed, we'd be seated sooner. We received our playing card and walked over to the waiting room.
All the seats were full but the room is comfortable and cozy. So, we stood and ordered some whiskeys, and a couple of snacks. After a very brief time, 2 seats opened up at the counter along the south wall, then a third. So, after just a couple of minutes the 3 of us were sitting in the soothing comfort of the dim red lighting, chatting, sipping whiskey (Very Old Barton), listening to some nice tunes and having some snacks (Mama's Nuts sampler and Shrimp Chips). It was just a nice way to hang-out. I think it must have been an hour before I even looked at my watch the first time. One moral of the story is certainly to never go to Fat Rice with people you don't really dig hanging out with. But another is that folks who operate their restaurants with the understanding that they are part of the hospitality industry totally rule. I felt more welcome, cared for and comfortable during this 2+ hour wait than I've felt at some restaurants where I was seated immediately and the tab was over $350 a person. Don't tell anyone but it's a bit of a party over at Fat Rice.
At around 10 we were ushered over to the dining room, where our evening of hanging out, sipping whiskey and eating some excellent food continued rather seamlessly. There were quite a few new items on the menu and we let our awesome server, Joanna, know that we were pretty hungry and that our preference was for chef to send out whatever he was excited to serve. We also let her know if it was too effing busy for that, we'd make the call ourselves. She helped by suggesting a bevy of the new dishes and chef Abraham added a few of his own choice and our meal 'officially' began.
We started out with 3 selections from the 'Pickles & Bites' section of the menu:
Ginger Lime Cauliflower,
Sesame Jellyfish, (Smoked)
Seafood Escabeche. I enjoyed all three of these but the jellyfish and escabeche just blew me away. I just loved the bold, assertive flavors in these nibbles. The smoke element of the escabeche was so perfect and the distinctive bite of the jellyfish really allowed me to savor all the complementary flavors in the dish. These were some great palate openers.
From the 'Small' section of the menu we had the
Grilled Sardines (fennel, olive, radish, papa seco) and the
Chilli Clam (vermicelli noodles, black bean, garlic butter). The sardines were very tasty and really a testament to the beauty of pristine seafood handled skillfully. They were cooked perfectly -- pungent, meaty and moist. The clams -- a combination of steamed and fried -- was a more chef-driven dish that I thought was phenomenal. I just couldn't believe how perfectly the flavors and textures in this dish synergized into something far more than the sum of their parts. The black beans were actually fermented black beans, which was a brilliant choice. They were like little exclamation points dotted throughout the dish. I think all 3 of us were just speechless when we ate this.
From the 'Medium' section we had the
Crazy Squid (bird chilli, sweet basil, green garlic, cashew and "now with more crazy") and the
Bacon Egg & Ramp Stir Fry (pickled chilli, tamarind, fish sauce, peanut). Both dishes were explosively flavorful and satisfying. Chef Abraham told us that the "more crazy" aspect of the squid dish indicated that the dish was now even spicier than its previous incarnation. In any case, it was stunning, with squid that had great flavor and just the right amount of chew. There was heat but it wasn't heat for heat's sake. The dish was in balance and the flavor of those bird chiles actually completed the composition beautifully. The bacon, egg and ramp dish was another compelling winner. Like so many other dishes at Fat Rice, it took a form that was all its own. There were such great flavors and textures, it was sad when we finished it.
From the 'Large' section of the menu we had the
Goan Pomfret Curry (green mango, long bean, tomato, jalapeno, thai eggplant) and the
Chacuti (chickpea, cauliflower, paneer, cashew, banana pachadi). Again, 2 sensational dishes here. The pomfret was perfectly flaky and moist but beyond the sensational fish, it was just a great dish all the way around. The curry was multi-dimensional, aromatic and spicy. I loved biting into the crunchy pieces of Thai eggplant and just digging all the flavors during the long chew. The Chacuti was downright intoxicating, boasting a delightful combination of ingredients that sang together on every level. Chickpeas and cauliflower are two of my all-time favorite ingredients, so naturally, this really spoke to me. The vegetables had great definition, not too firm but not mushy at all. As full as we were, there was a little bit leftover, which I took home. It made for a fantastic omelet filling for my Sunday breakfast.
For dessert, we had the
Pineapple Upside Down Cake (caramel, cream), which I've just grown to love over my visits to Fat Rice, and the
Serradura (guava, sweet cream, banana, tea biscuit crumb), which is just a little bowl of loveliness. We were stuffed but we still managed to put down most of both.
For my money, Fat Rice is one of the most exciting and important restaurants in the city. Their food is unlike anything else being served in town. They combine great, often under-used ingredients in thoughtful compositions that are expertly prepared. Service is ultra-friendly and the vibe is a thing all its own. It really is a party over at Fat Rice and it's being thrown by a team that seems to genuinely feed on the energy in the room; the energy that is actually generated via great hosting. There is no other place I know of where a 2-hour wait for a table is not only worth it but also part of the fun.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain