Just back from the first pop up dinner at Table, Donkey and Stick; tonight was Chef Keeley's turn (former sous chef at Bonsoiree who also spent time at Blackbird as well as at Toro in Boston, MA). Chef Jon Keeley set the bar high with an excellent five course meal. It was really fun to take part in this experience. For just $15 this was one of the best dining bargains I have ever had (there is special pricing during the competition, but prices will go up once the restaurant officially opens, likely sometime in December). There was a sparkling wine, a couple of reds and a couple of whites available by the glass or carafe (inexpensively priced - we paid $27 for a carafe of red) as well as some after dinner drinks and coffees. Complimentary still or sparkling water is available.
There were some minor service issues, but that is to be expected during a pop up dinner such as this where the kitchen is likely extremely busy and it is chaotic for the servers as well with a completely different menu and chef each night of the competition. Issues included some lengthy gaps between courses, one of our servers took the time to explain the courses she delivered but the other server simply dropped the dishes off without uttering a word and nobody said goodbye or acknowledged as we left. While this would not be acceptable once the restaurant is up and running, under the circumstances (and price point) it was no big deal. They have someone videotaping the dinners and he interviews select tables (after first seeking permission). The chefs were understandably busy in the kitchen so I did not see any of them mingle with patrons.
The food was quite good; I really liked four of the five courses - well prepared, plated, tasty, complex and interesting. The decor has been adjusted slightly from Chef Kim's version of Bonsoiree 2.0 to try and provide a bit of that inn in the Swiss Alps ambiance Chef Thompson is seeking. As with Bonsoiree the venue can become a bit loud when full, but other than that there is a nice vibe.The backyard fire pit was not operating tonight (there is an outdoor area for after dinner drinks around a bonfire that they are planning on having open all four seasons, but they apparently did not obtain wood quite yet - they indicated they hope to have this going on Thursday); that will definitely be a nice, unique feature and a fun way to end a meal. The food was just the right amount; I left feeling quite satisfied, but not at all uncomfortable.
I am glad that I signed up for three of the first five pop up dinners and will be returning this Thursday to enjoy the cuisine of Chef Manley (currently of El Ideas); on paper he seems to be the most talented of the five chefs that have been named so far for the competition, but chef Keeley definitely made a strong case for himself tonight. At the end of the meal you are handed a short comment card to rank a few aspects of the meal as well as write in any opinions you might have about the experience. Be sure to follow Table, Donkey and Stick on Facebook as they are quite active with social media and frequently post updates.
Here is a photo summary of chef Keeley's meal:
Course #1: Beets, Carrots, Sunchoke Puree, Golden Endive, Compressed Apple, Mascarpone Snow, Poached Trout and Sherry Vinaigrette - An outstanding start to the meal. Beautifully plated and served on slate it was a chock full of bold flavors. This dish makes eating salad fun.
Course #2: Charcuterie Plate with Grilled Housemade Pretzel Roll, Pickled Shallots, Bacon-Wrapped Terrine, Rillettes and Pork Sausage - The pretzel roll was so good (I was hoping they would hand out a bag of these as a parting gift, but alas, no such luck). The bacon-wrapped terrine was the best of the meats and the pork sausage was quite good and aromatic; the rillette was just O.K. - not too much flavor. This plate was very good, but would have stood out even more if there was a nice piece of cheese or two.
Course #3: Heirloom Squash Soup with Sweetbreads, Crispy Kale, Chili Oil and IPA Foam - For me this was the weakest of the five courses, but my friend really enjoyed his. The IPA foam was excellent, but not enough of it. I did enjoy the soup but the sweetbreads were for me unpleasant (though I have to admit I am not a big fan of sweetbreads in general; occasionally I have liked them but more often then not do not care for them).
Course #4: Squid Ink Pappardelle with Braised Rabbit, Rabbit Loin, Brussels Sprouts, Leeks and Toasted Hazelnut Crumble - Excellent dish. The pasta was well cooked and flavorful as was the two preparations of rabbits. My friend commented that the dish reminded him of a tuna casserole in appearance (the hazelnut crumble resembles the crust on a tuna casserole) and we then noticed that the squid ink imparts a bit of a fishy (but very pleasant) aftertaste - so if one did not know this was rabbit they might actually think they were eating a fancy, upscale tuna casserole. This dish was excellent and definitely is one that would likely do well were it (or something very similar) to make the final menu.
Course #5: Olive Oil Cake, Creme Fraiche Ice Cream, Espresso Gel, Honeycomb, Ganache - A great end to the meal. While the cake itself was a tad dry, everything else was so potent and moist that it did not matter. I am not generally a fan of creme fraiche, but this was some outstanding ice cream and tasted more like really flavorful vanilla than sour cream. The honeycomb candy crumble was one of the best parts of the meal; like the pretzel bread I would have loved to take home a bunch of this treat! The espresso gel and ganache also added interesting textures and flavors.
It will be interesting to see how everything plays out at Table, Donkey and Stick. Chef Thompson has really come up with a unique, interesting and fun way to choose a new chef and has created a lot of positive buzz. I think this venue has a lot of potential and hope it is successful. I will try and report back after my meal on Thursday!
Twitter: @Goof_2