Burgers, Burgers

After having been to Louis Lunch in New Haven, CT this past week (purportedly the home of the American hamburger) and Ted Cheeseburgers in Meriden, CT (unique steamed cheeseburgers, extremely juicy), I want to throw out my top ten burger list for the Chicago area, which usually starts some spirited banter:

10.Moody's (inconsistent) and Jury's
9. Boston Blackie's
8. Twisted Spoke
7. Darwin's, Bucktown
6. Billy Goat (something about burgers on kaiser rolls that I like)
5. Muldoon's, Wheaton
4. Capital Grille, Chicago
3. Top-Notch Beefburger, Beverly and Cicero (I think)
2. Goldyburgers, Forest Park
1. Charlie Beinlich's, Northbrook

Comments- I eat my burgers medium rare. When cooked to medium, the flavor definitely changes.

-Not much difference between spots 8-10. Moody's was great the first time I was there, but the last couple of times the burgers were dry and lacking in flavor.
-I think Jury's makes a decent burger, but the edges looked just too rounded and I'm uncertain whether or not they use frozen patties or not.
-Blackie's is good bus doesn't really differentiate itself from the others.
-Twisted Spoke does differentiate itself; some people feel very strongly about the spices used in the burger (i.e. my wife hates it) but sometimes the burger is rendered too dry.
-I had a great Fried Leek and Brie Cheeseburger at Darwin's, with sweet potato fries that was really different and good.
-A lot of people think the BG is overrated, but the combination of meat, cheese, good pickles and ketchup on a chewy roll is something I can't resist.
-Muldoon's in downtown Wheaton, makes a great, juicy 1/2 lb. burger with excellent fries. I believe they get their ground beef from Wheaton Meat Company down the street
-At Capital Grille, bacon and onion are ground into the burger for a powerful taste.
-Top-Notch makes a silky tasting burger, similar to Beinlich's. Good malts, too.
-Goldyburger's makes a thick, very beefy flavored burger. The 3/4 Big Daddy is a huge hunk of juicy meat that requires the belt to be opened a few notches.
-To me, Beinlich's is the Rolls-Royce of burgers. It has such a smooth meaty flavor, but if it is cooked to medium, rather than medium rare, the flavor isn't nearly as good. To top it off, they make excellent cole slaw and a killer shrimp and crabmeat cocktail.


I haven't been to Monk's Pub, Smith and Wollensky, Pete Miller's or Kevin's Hamburger Heaven, among others. Nick's in Lemont is the biggest, but not the tastiest.

Come Back Inn Pub would have made the list, but my understanding is that it has closed.

No list is complete for me without mentioning Hamburger Heaven in Elmhurst on York and North Avenue, the burgers that I grew up on.

1. Charlie Beinlich's, Northbrook

I drove past Charlie's yesterday, he's in my neighborhood, they have gone fishing until July 13th. So make no plans to check out their burgers until then.

I love the place. I feel like I walked into a Wisconsin north woods dinner club.

I must second Goldyburgers. I haven't tried the others, to be fair, but Goldy's is nearby and was a second home to my husband when I was on an overseas project last year for 4.5 months, so we feel a true sense of loyalty to that place and the burger. ( I also love their fried breaded mushrooms -never greasy) Normally I also get i medium rare, but in my first pregancy paranoia have been getting them medium lately, and they are still juicy and flavorful, not an easy task.
LO

Definitely check out Monk's (downtown, at Lake and Wells) and Smith and Wollensky. They are both excellent. Somewhat surprisingly, I would also put the burger at Bin 36 on my top 5 list. (I'm with you on the "medium rare"....whole different thing if you go up to medium!)

I think you have to classify this list into two distinct divisions, One is the sit down burger joints (Hackneys, Smith & Wolensky's, Beinligh's, etc.) and the other is the burger/hot dog stand division. I feel they are two separate and distinct genres of burgerdom.

Some of my faves, though, no longer exist:
Claim Company, in Northbrook Court produced an outstanding slab o' ground beef. Long missed.
Hamburger Hamlet used to be in the Burbs many years ago (where Lalo's is in Glenview), and had some very tasty combos (chilli in particular was very good), and an outstanding French Onion Soup to go with it. Is the one downtown still there?

I'm with SteveZ, this list, though entirely solid, is mainly reflective of one specific kind of burger, the kind you get in bars and sitdown restaurants. There is another tradition which is equally valid but different enough-- minimalist for one thing-- that it should not be compared head to head and, in any case, is missing many of the best candidates.

Joel, there is still a hamburger hamlet in Wheaton, Town Square. I cannot say that I like the place, but I am not a great burger afficionado.

Saps, what do you think of Country House out west here? I will try Muldoon's based on your post, thanks. And you have mentioned Hamburger Heaven again, so I will get there, too, though I do not trust my chidlhood food loves (my advice: don't go back!), so I am uncertain about trusting other's.

I agree with Steve that the grill-burger, smaller and crispier, is a different animal than the big, meaty, pink, sit-down burger.

Goldy's remains my sentimental favorite as well - used to love them when I lived in Cicero and Oak Park in the 70's (had to get out of town when Hammond and VI wrecked the neighborhood ). How old is that place?

My current fave is the extra crispy In n Out Burger.

Over here in South Bend the best "grill" hamburger is at a diner named "The White House Restaurant" at the corner of Mishawaka Ave. and Twychenham Drive, this place is also commonly referred to as the G & H or Gag & Heave. However, great hamburgers and breakfasts with good prices.

The quote "bar burger" big meaty type CJ's pub on Main Street next to Memorial Hospital is probably the best.

Personally, I prefer the G & H as the best flavored grill burger I've had.

On this list, it was basically the sit-down bar-burger type places, the larger burgers. I wouldn't know where to begin on the greasy spoon/ hot dog/hamburger stand burgers, although Weiner Circle and Paradise Pup would definitely be on it. I generally don't target the stands when I'm out burger hunting, so I'm definitely missing out there.

In regards to Hamburger Heaven in Elmhurst, it's something that I grew up, they still taste the same, and my wife really likes them, so it gives me some hope that it may not be me just being nostalgic. What I like is that everything is the same there, down to the creamy root beer and the fries. I'm sure that some people (maybe many) would try them and say "What the hell is this?" That's why I special mention it, but even on a burger stand list, I wouldn't know where to put them, because it's something tied so well to good memories of where I grew up and the whole experience of going there, even today with my kids.

Saps,

The Wife and I grew up in Elmhurst. We stop by Hamburger Heaven usually once or twice a summer: she gets all nostalgic, whereas my feeling is more "what the heck."

I do agree with MikeG, however, that the logo of the hamburger with wings is an eternal classic.

Hammond

re: Country House

Whenever I make a list, I always forget a few, and Country House makes a pretty darn good burger. I like the newer place out in Geneva and the original one in Clarendon Hills/Hinsdale off of 55th. The one on Yackley in Lisle makes me claustrophobic, although the food seems pretty consistent from one to the next. They make a good buffalo burger as well, and I think I even tried an ostrich burger at the one in Lisle a few years ago. They also make a pretty good bowl of chili, if I remember right.

Saps

I still like the Hackneyburger, even though we had pretty terrible service at the Lake Zurich Hackney's recently, and the Gulliburger. On the subject of late, lamented burgers, the dry-aged, prime beef burger kissed with blue cheese served at the erstwhile Millennium on Randolph was tops.

Hackney's locations

Gulliver's
2727 W. Howard St., Chicago
773/338-2166

LAZ wrote:I still like the Hackneyburger, even though we had pretty terrible service at the Lake Zurich Hackney's recently, and the Gulliburger. On the subject of late, lamented burgers, the dry-aged, prime beef burger kissed with blue cheese served at the erstwhile Millennium on Randolph was tops.

Hackney's locations

Gulliver's
2727 W. Howard St., Chicago
773/338-2166

I'm with you on both the Hackneyburger (still my gold standard) as well as the Millenium burger. I wish that place was still there and open for lunch. On the other genre of burgers, the thin burger stand variety, I would like to add Muskie's on Lincoln and Sally's on Montrose to the list of top tier burgers along with the already mentioned Paradise Pup (my favorite of this genre).

Hi,

During the eternal period I was growing up, we used to get a darn good burger at The Claim Company. It has re-emerged through 41 North, which is owned by the same people who managed Claim Company. I posted on 41 North several times including last August:

[quote]Some years ago, Northbrook Court had a restaurant named the Claim Company. One of their popular offerings was a hamburger called "The Motherlode." What was unique about this hamburger: they had a multitude of toppings which you could select as many or as few as you wanted.

I had completely forgotten about the Motherlode until I visited 41 North (for those with long memories at the old Henrici's Restaurant building). They offer the Forty One North Burger: 9 oz. burger grilled to your specification & served on an egg bun, dark rye, onion roll or whole wheat bun with your choice of toppings American Cheese * Bacon * Sauteed Onions * Raw Onion * Fried Onions * Sauteed Mushrooms * Teriyaki Sauce * BBQ Sauce. Several of us who had been to Claim Company long ago, recognized this offering as the Motherlode.

I have to admit I have stalled at the Motherlode. Though I usually try to split the burger with a friend, then I order a main course salad to split between us as well. I have also had the grilled chicken and tasted somebody's meatloaf. Though I am not a big meatloaf fan, it tasted quite good and was shaped and size of a mini loaf pan ... enough to share or take home for another meal.

This is just a short distance south from Charlie Beinlich, another fine burger institution. However, 41 North has a broader menu. So if one must compromise, then 41 North is a pretty good burger.


41 North or Forty One North
445 Skokie Blvd.
Northbrook
847-753-9111 Ph
847-753-9222 Fax

I know that there is dissent on my favorite burger in Chicago - but I still like Erwin's. When it's good, it's really really good. With the fries done extra crispy, it's really an outstanding meal.

Tried Jury's burger last night, also a good one.

MAG wrote:I know that there is dissent on my favorite burger in Chicago - but I still like Erwin's. When it's good, it's really really good. With the fries done extra crispy, it's really an outstanding meal.

Tried Jury's burger last night, also a good one.

While we're talking sit-down bar burgers, add The Grafton to the list. Several months ago, there was a picture of the said burger printed in Chicago Magazine. It was enough to get me to go there and try the place for the first time...despite previous mentions on CH. It was truely a case of a picture being worth 1000 words. The burger didn't dissapoint.

My brother worked Hackneys for a short while, and it was enough of a Jungle-like experience to move him to vegetarianism for a couple of years -- hot links were his undoing

His biggest problem was that the burgers were fried in deep fat. I never asked him to clarify whether this was in the fry basket or just a deep pan, but the sheer quantity of fat that makes it such a juicy burger got to him.

My opinion? To quote Robert Heinlein: Moderation is for monks. If you're going out for something decadent, don't worry about it.

His biggest problem was that the burgers were fried in deep fat. I never asked him to clarify whether this was in the fry basket or just a deep pan, but the sheer quantity of fat that makes it such a juicy burger got to him.

Low fat content ground meat makes a very poor, dry hamburger. You need high fat content ground meat to make a juicy hamburger. I have had plenty of Hackney's burgers over the years, there was no indication these were cooked in deep fat.

I've noticed as people edge into vegetarianism, they begin to be hyper critical of all things related to animal protein production. I think they work themselves into a massive disgust, then eat vegetables sanctimoniously.

dicksond wrote:Joel, there is still a hamburger hamlet in Wheaton, Town Square.

David,

If I am mistaken please forgive me. If I remember correctly the Hamburger Hamlet in Wheaton closed around 2 years ago. The space is now occupied by a Red Robin. Supposedly Red Robin is a "gourmet" burger joint with a full service bar. In my experience at the Cantera Red Robin location I found the fact that the burgers are cooked on a conveyor belt ala Burger King style a little offputting. You only get two choices "pink' and "no pink". For an avid Med-rare fan this just won't do. Although the all you can eat fries are sure to scare away the atkin's evil doers.

Flip

ps: I don't intend to offend any Atkin's followers. I just wanted to use that emoticon.

JoelF wrote:My brother worked Hackneys for a short while, and it was enough of a Jungle-like experience to move him to vegetarianism for a couple of years -- hot links were his undoing

His biggest problem was that the burgers were fried in deep fat. I never asked him to clarify whether this was in the fry basket or just a deep pan, but the sheer quantity of fat that makes it such a juicy burger got to him.

My opinion? To quote Robert Heinlein: Moderation is for monks. If you're going out for something decadent, don't worry about it.

I have heard that same thing from two different former Hackney's workers. Neither one elaborated that much on the method of deep fat frying. All I know is the burgers are great. When served with the requisite fried onion loaf, any omount of fat in the burgers is immaterial anyway IMO.

Hackney's burgers are nowhere near what they used to be like in the 70's. They had a much cleaner flavor (it seems a bit plodding to me these days). The fries were different, too. In the 70's, they used thin fresh cut fries that would kind of stick together and the juice from the burger would run off into them, making a 1/4 of them a mushy delicious mess. Today they just use run-of-the-mill frozen fries. As a kid, Hackney's was my favorite burger joint far-and-away, but I can't say the same for them today.

Saps

saps wrote:Hackney's burgers are nowhere near what they used to be like in the 70's.

I can't compare the Hackney's of today to the Hackney's of the past, since I only know them since they opened a branch here in Printer's Row a few years back, but they are -- from the accounts I've heard -- the best burger in the immediate neighbourhood. I've only had burgers from them for take-out or delivery; the regular burgers are pretty good but I really like the buffalo burgers.

The fries were different, too. In the 70's, they used thin fresh cut fries that would kind of stick together and the juice from the burger would run off into them, making a 1/4 of them a mushy delicious mess. Today they just use run-of-the-mill frozen fries.

Take-out fries are not ever going to be at their peak but I have several times felt they were undercooked, i.e., limpness was not just a matter of having been transported the 50 yards or so (plus an elevator ride) from the restaurant to where we live; rather, they were just plain old undercooked. Light in colour and limp...

I've said this before, though: all in all, Hackney's has been a great addition to this neighbourhood (they have a great selection of beers on tap).

A

Antonius wrote:

saps wrote:Hackney's burgers are nowhere near what they used to be like in the 70's.

I can't compare the Hackney's of today to the Hackney's of the past, since I only know them since they opened a branch here in Printer's Row a few years back, but they are -- from the accounts I've heard -- the best burger in the immediate neighbourhood. I've only had burgers from them for take-out or delivery; the regular burgers are pretty good but I really like the buffalo burgers.


A

Antonius,

As nice an addition as the Printers Row Hackney's is for the neighborhood, I have found that the locations on Lake Street, or the Original on Harm's Raod (both in Glenview) serve a far superior burger and onion ring loaf to the Printers Row location. If you ever get a chance to sample either of these other two locations, you should do so in order to have a point of camparison.

stevez wrote:As nice an addition as the Printers Row Hackney's is for the neighborhood, I have found that the locations on Lake Street, or the Original on Harm's Raod (both in Glenview) serve a far superior burger and onion ring loaf to the Printers Row location. If you ever get a chance to sample either of these other two locations, you should do so in order to have a point of camparison.

Stevez:

Yes, that's a good idea; I would like to check out the original place. The South Loop has been slowly improving in food options, though most of the stuff is at higher end of the food chain. Hackney's and the often criticised SL branch of Bar Louis, along with Blackies, are the only places around Printer's Row where one can get a pub-style burger. I'm not certain but think the South Loop Club might serve more of a slider style (obviously, I've never eaten there). Slightly further afield is Exchequer and then of course a number of places to the north, but true Printer's Rowers rarely paddle beyond Congress...

By the way, a couple of weeks back I saw in the obits of the Trib a notice for the passing of the female half of the couple that started up Hackney's. It was an interesting piece about a family that has done well for themselves with a simple, honest business. However it compares with the other branches, the South Loop Hackney's is nice.

A

Tonight, I found myself in the Northbrook/Glenview area on an errend and this thread came to mind. It's been quite a while since I've been to Charlie Beinlich's, so off to Beinlich's I went only to find it closed with a "gone fishing" sign at the entrance to the parking lot. Remembering Cathy2's post about Forty One North, I made a beeline and, sure enough, there was the promised Forty One North Motherlode Clone burger on the menu. I almost didn't order it in favor of the "4 layer meatloaf" (2 generous slabs of homemade meatloaf sandwiched with homemade garlic mashed potatoes), but I was on a mission and got the burger as planned. It was a great burger and very much like the Motherlode of my past. I got mine on a toasted egg bun cooked to a perfectly juicy medium with swiss cheese, fried onions and both teriyaki and BBQ sauce on the side. It was burger nirvana, although I must say that the teriyaki sauce was rather tasteless and thin (a very minor complaint). My only regret was that I left the camera at home.

Hi Steve,

Another feature the Claim Company had was a sauce, I believe they called it Claim Sauce. I have a 1970's era cookbook of Chicago restaurants where they provide signature recipes. One of these is THE sauce from the Claim Company. Of course, the quantity is rather daunting as it makes just over a gallon. However, I will make a batch sometime this year, which we'll have to try.

When I go to 41 North, I do all onion: onion roll, raw onion, sauteed onion, french fried onion -- all onion all the time! And of course, extra onion!

Cathy2 wrote:Hi Steve,

When I go to 41 North, I do all onion: onion roll, raw onion, sauteed onion, french fried onion -- all onion all the time! And of course, extra onion!

Well, I had the onion soup to go with my fried onions

Brandt's Little Cafe on NW Hwy in Palatine has great burgers, although I haven't eaten there in a few years.

I had a pretty good burger last year at a little downstairs bar on Ohio near Michigan. Don't know the name.

Other faves:
Hackney's Buffalo burgers
The Firkin, Libertyville

Went to Gulliver's Tuesday night and ordered their "Beltbuster" burger. It consists of 8oz of freshly ground beef,cheddar cheese, bacon, and sauteed onions.

I would put this burger up against any of the "Best Burger" usual suspects. It was juicy, very flavorful and cooked to perfection.

Although known for their pizza, the restaurant does most things very well. I'm surprised that their isn't more positive chatter about this place on this board. ( I have no connection with Gulliver's whatsoever---I have simply patronized them for 25 years )

Enjoy------ Gulliver's
2700 ( ish ) W. Howard
Chicago, IL