I had another lovely birthday meal (third year in a row, at two different restaurants) from Gaetano's kitchen tonight, although the master himself was away. The Gae-tapas small plates were exquisite as usual, the only downside with the late-Spring menu being the promise of the ingredients he'll be using in another few months; my favorite meals at La Piazza were always summertime and early fall. Our lineup for the evening was:
- poached pear salad with warmed gorgonzola*
- chocolate-brushed woodfired scallops with wild mushrooms
- cannoli of chicken salad with tuna and chili*
- pancetta-wrapped dates stuffed with spicy sausage and smoked chili powder
- fried zucchini blossoms*
- calamari with asparagus, white beans, and wasabi*
- crab cakes in spicy tomato sauce*
- rotolo di melanzane (we requested this one, a favorite)
- tortolloni in brown butter and sage
- quartet of coconut and strawberry sorbet, pumpkin cheesecake, and panna cotta
*pictured by Ronnie one page back
The only repeats from other visits in all seasons were the zucchini blossoms and eggplant. The cannoli is a strikingly similar to, and perhaps descended from, the signature dish at La Perla, Emilio Gervilla's erstwhile banquet space, though similar versions in a soft pasta shell appear at his other restaurants. The rotolo di melanzane belies its average looks with only the thinnest layer of eggplant, under which barely-wilted spinach, basil, and chili oil are married among silky sauce and cheese. It is rich but much less dense and filling than it looks at first glance. The pancetta-wrapped dates were as decadent and satisfying a take as Avec's or Emilio's, though the chili powder was over-assertive, and simple toasted cumin would have sufficiently made the point.
The standouts tonight were the scallops (light-years better than a similar attempt at Macarena Tapas in Naperville), with just a gold-leaf-like layer of bitter chocolate bringing out the earthiness of the mushrooms and sealing the moisture in the scallops, and the smack-your-mama perfect tortolloni,
dentissimo, with a handful of crispy deep-fried sage and a jigger of barely browned liquid butter.
Gaetano loves dairy, and one of these times I'm going to challenge him to do a whole tasting for us focused on raws and acids rather than creams and cheeses, something I know from experience he can do just as well for a meal's foundation, as what he does with citrus, vinegar, saba, and simple oils cut through everything else like a blade. The contrast is necessary to a degree for his culinary antiperistasis, but I look forward to the natural balance shift as the year and produce cycle on, and perhaps a nudge on one of our visits. His staff rises to all requests, so don't hesitate if you're thinking of visiting soon. For those debating between the Gae-tapas and the full chef's choice, you can expect at least one pasta on either, which will satisfy most on the smaller menu, but you do need the big menu to get your hunk o'protein. We've also done Gae-tapas plus one entree to split. No matter how you go, I think this place is a remarkable value and a "secret" most worthy of LTH.