Juneteenth: The Other Independence Day Almost ten years ago at a Culinary Historians of Chicago program, I purchased a reprint of “The Historical Cookbook of the American Negro," by the National Council of Negro Women, Inc. According to the book’s jacket, “The classic yearlong celebration of black heritage from Emancipation Proclamation Breakfast Cake to Wandering Pilgrim’s Stew.” It is arranged by calendar dates highlighting holidays and significant people with relevant recipes.
This book published in 1958 does not mention Kwanza, which originated in 1966. It does highlight a holiday celebrated since June 19th, 1865: Juneteenth (aka Freedom Day or Emancipation Day). This date commemorates the Emancipation Proclamation’s enforcement in Texas ending slavery in the United States.
President Lincoln’s Emancipation Proclamation was issued on September 22, 1862, it became official on January 1st, 1863. During the Civil War, there were few Union troops in Texas to enforce this Executive order.
The Civil War ended with General Robert E. Lee’s surrender on April 9th, 1865. Union soldiers led by Major General Gordon Granger landed in Galveston, Texas on June 19th declaring the war was over and the enslaved were now free. These forces were finally strong enough to influence and overcome any lingering resistance.
Until 1980, Juneteenth was largely celebrated only in Texas. However, it is now a state holiday or observance in 36 states including Illinois.
Since 1865, Juneteenth has been a time for thanksgiving, reflection, remembering and prayer. It is celebrated with people gathering to hear a reading of the Emancipation Proclamation followed by inspirational speeches, then settle down to a meal.
Red soda-pop and barbecue are strongly associated with Juneteenth celebrations. There are two schools in red soda pop preferences: tradition is red soda water flavored like strawberry. Since 1937, there is a regional soda named ‘Big Red,’ whose taste is difficult to pinpoint, though some suggest it tastes like bubblegum. It is perfectly acceptable to serve a strawberry soda pop.
The barbecue pit is the center of Juneteenth celebrations with pulled pork and ribs in addition to less common meats of lamb and beef. The barbecue tradition allows celebrants to share in the spirit and aromas newly emancipated slaves would have experienced during their celebrations.
“The Historical Cookbook of the American Negro,” has recipes for barbecued veal roast, Texas (beef) tongue, green beans with a hot mustard sauce, watermelon sherbet and crab meat delight. Other dishes found on Juneteenth menus are red rice with lots of tomatoes, smoothered chicken, red velvet cake and sweet potato pie.
If you have never observed Juneteenth before, it’s never too late begin. This year marks Juneteenth’s 145th anniversary. Happy Juneteenth!
“Juneteeth” Barbecued Veal Roast
submitted by The Houston Council
Adapted from “The Historical Cookbook of the American Negro”
4 pounds rolled veal shoulder
Salt and pepper
3/4 cup catsup
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons vinegar
1 teaspoon celery salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1-1/2 teaspoon dry mustard
Dash cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Rub roast with salt and pepper.
Combine remaining ingredients into a sauce, then pour over roast.
Bake for 2-1/2 hours