"Our Pig", version Canadienne

Years and years ago, I realized that "modern pork--the other white meat", was lousy stuff, frequently no better than tofu or chicken breast for flavor. A good pal at the University of Missouri-Columbia Dr. Billy Day, one of the world's experts in swine genetics, told me the story. "Where's my grandma's pig, Billy?" I asked. 'We bred all the good out of it' he said, 'it's all gone.' He thought that maybe a properly raised pig could taste quite a bit better, in spite of its genes. But I couldn't talk him into raising it for me... So I continued to look around. Switch to Montréal. After throwing in with über-bio-guy Jean, we decided that we really had to do a *real* piggie, somehow, somewhere. I researched and researched, looking for the most promising breed. Very rapidly the search spiralled in on the Large Black heritage breed. Now, where to find one? Nicely enough, I found a place in MO where I could get the meat, but it would only be available at times when I was in Canada. Sigh. What about Canada? any Large Black there? All my googling said "no", until one night last January I ran across an article in the Kingston ON newspaper about a local organic farmer supplying local resturants with Large Black pigs. The restaurants were wild and crazy, and probably the entire supply was sold from now until whenever... But I e-mailed Karen anyway. Gloryoski Batman! not only did she have a couple of piglets, she could supply a half to me! Yee-hah! So I went with the half, brought in a couple of friends, and set the deal up. Three weeks ago, Sonoma Howie and I set off for deepest central Ontario to get the piggie.

Karen's farm was deep in the woods

but looked great in the clearing at the end of the road



There were animals EVERYwhere, each of which, Karen assurred us, was from a heritage breed. Here she is, telling the story to Howie:



This guy, a *classic* old fashioned American, was awfully friendly, kept coming round:


This guy, his mom and brother [of a breed known for its sheep-flock protective powers, whose name I've forgotten] keep busy every evening, subduing racoons and coyotes. They are fearless and extremely effective:


Here's a shot of the pen where everybody congregates, heritage sheep, goats, rare Scottish cattle, and, of course, our Large Black piggies, the parental line of which, natch! is named, and not only answers to their names, comes when called! Amazing!


Another, closer, shot of the corral:


Three friends and I split the half four ways. Here's my upstairs freezer: the pink pkgs are about half my take.
That big pkg in the lower right is 11 lbs of belly (read & weep Gary!).


Here's a shoulder chop, just a bit under a pound:



A closeup of the marbling:


And, finally, the grilled chop:



This is the best pork I've ever had in my life. The meat is dense, toothsome, incredibly rich, moist, etc. And the fat!! Pure luxury. I render every bit of non-essential fat, saving it, guarding it, carefully.

An organic, free-range, pastured pig, from a heritage breed known for its fine flavor. Folks, life just don't get any better. Woo-hoo!

Geo

Wow. Though I have to admit, it's still a little difficult to go from a pic of cute little free-range piggies to a freezer full of cuts.

That chop, though - wow.

Gee...it's been a couple years since I was in Montreal. Sounds like it's time for a return visit, call on some local LTHers, have dinner...eat pork....

Wonderful story, Geo, thanks. And good to know that, even though it took a ton of work to find, there was a happy ending (except for piggy, I guess). I'm with Michele: that chop look out of this world.

Sold. Now to find one near chicago...

That chop looks incredible.

Great post, Geo.

I am envious, but hopefully not permanently. I am trying to convince my brother to add a couple of new breeds to his pigpen!

Once you've enjoyed the heritage breeds, it's hard (but sometimes inevitable) going back to confinement pork.

Fine post, Geo.