Assam: The Coffee of Teas
Assam is my favorite tea, a statement perhaps just a little less preposterous than saying that some food – a Oaxacan tamale, for example – is my favorite thing to eat.
There are thousands of teas out there, and each has a place, whether it’s a musky Pu-erh or some variation on a delicate green or white. More often than not, though, I find myself grabbing for the Assam.
I just bought 100 grams of Nahorhabi Estate FTGFOP1 (finest tippy golden flower orange pekoe, graded #1) from Upton. Peeking in the silver bag, I was reminded of the first time I looked into my grandfather’s tobacco pouch: this is powerfully aromatic stuff, with blonde and chocolate-colored threads weaving throughout, a gorgeous mass of dried vegetable tissue.
Assam, the Indian variety that is the foundation of many “breakfast” teas (English, Irish, etc.), has enough guts to take a splash of milk, no problem (if that’s what you’re into). I prefer it straight up, the better to savor the steaming malty goodness, which is perhaps not as subtle as some of the Chinese breeds of camellia sinensis, but there’s a lot going on in each cup. Though it has maybe one quarter the caffeine of coffee, Assam delivers a formidable wake-up punch and is probably the closest tea to coffee in the sense that it has a dark density, a deepness, gravitas. You just have to drink four cups or to get the requisite morning buzz…which, when you have a tea this good, ain’t hard.
My bag of premium Assam was the most expensive variety of this tea offered by Upton ($16.50 for 100 grams), and a good value: check out the Upton Tea Site:
http://tinyurl.com/tcd9l
Hammond
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins