All praise to Psychchef and the Hopleaf for a great evening. This was the most attention I've ever paid to the defining characteristics of scotch taste. As my friend Matt and I got there late, we didn't have a chance to utilize some of the resources we had brought, so I will take this opportunity to quote at length from Jim Murray's
World Whiskey Guide
"There is probably no better place to start a grand tour of...Scottish malt-whisky distilleries than in the Orkneys, not necessarily because the very best whisky is made there, because it isn't....No, it is because the fate and the practices of its two distilleries can be seen as a microcosm of the industry as a whole.
"On the one hand there is Highland Park, a traditional, big-stoned twin-pagoda, Victorian-style distillery, right down to its unique and mysteriously 'Y' shaped active floor maltings, which enjoys a worldwide reputation for its velvety, heathery make. On the other, there is Scapa. Except for blenders and a few connoisseurs in the know, it is virtually unheard of, despite the fact that the maturing spirit in its warehouses is rarely anything less than excellent."
Murray goes on to note that Highland Park cuts their peat from the local Hobbister Moor; this peat is then used to smoke malt to a heavy phenol level of 20 ppm. The smoked malt is then mixed with unpeated malt which results in what Murray calls "an Orcadian delight, with a delicious heatheriness and a full, sweet understated smokiness."
Scapa, in their efforts to make their product attractive to blenders, uses totally unpeated malt, yet a hint of smokiness comes through all the same. Of the two, I found Scapa to have a greater depth of character, with a broader range of flavors represented. The Scapa was a 14 year while the Highland Park was only a 12, an aspect I will come back to with Laphroaig and Glenmorangie.
Next up was the Talisker 10 year, from the Isle of Skye, which despite its young age displayed a surprising amount of maturity and a prolonged finish. Talisker plays a key role in the blends of Johnny Walker, according to Murray single malt bottlings of Talisker bore the Johnny Walker logo as recently as the 1980s. Talisker also figures into one of my father's favorite liqueurs, Drambuie. I enjoyed the Talisker more than the Oban, but this makes them seem more similar than they are. The Talisker is thinner and peatier than the Oban, but the Oban is a 14 and the Talisker only a 10. Talisker's phenol levels are 25 ppm, less than the Laphroaig and Lagavulin, but more than any of the other scotches that we tasted.
The Oban was quite smooth, considering that Gary got this at Sam's during their scotch sale, this may be the deal of the bunch. Oban is one of the only legal distilleries in the Western Highlands and has been in operation since 1794, making it one of the world's oldest.
The Glenmorangie 18 year that we had was a real treat. It's almost unfair to consider it alongside the other scotches as the extra cask time makes a significant difference. If someone wanted to know what scotch was, I might point them towards this, if only because it balances the elements of scotch flavor so effectively. This was the only scotch we tasted with hints of citrus that I could identify.
Now to the Islay distilleries, Laphroiag and Lagavulin. The Laphroaig, as Trixie-pea noted, is the kind of think you either love or hate. It is so heavily peated that doctors were allowed to prescribe it during Prohibition because of its strong iodine 'medicinal' taste. The 10 year old we had is probably the most readily availabe of Laphroiag's bottlings, but if you enjoy its' character, seek out the Cask Strength bottling, which isn't chill-filtered. Personally, I find the Laphroiag 10 to be too much like medicine to enjoy. I appreciate its qualities, but I feel that the Cask Strength bottling and our next scotch, the Lagavulin 16, present the same heavily peated profile in a more complex, interesting way.
The Lagavulin 16 was another special treat, as its popularity has made it hard to come by lately. The Duke of Perth is out of stock, for example, and it may be months before they can get more. This was the biggest, most assertive scotch we tasted; Jim Murray says, "Be warned, it is not a malt you simply sip; it devours you." I would tend to agree with this sentiment. I had to partition off the Lagavulin and Laphroaig from the rest of the tasting because they would so easily overpower the subtlety of the Highland Park or the Glenmorangie. This is a delicious scotch, 16 years is a great age for it, I wonder how the Laphroaig would compare if it had the extra cask time.
The Aberlour 10 was the most complex of the 10 year scotches we had. I found it to be smooth and relaxed. This is a Speyside distillery, along with Glenlivet and Macallan, and while I might not pick it over the 15 year Glenlivet French Oak Finish or the Macallan cask strength, for a 10 year it is a delicious, creamy offering, one that I would love to have around the house.
The Glenlivet French Oak Finish that I brought was the one I paid the least attention to, probably because it was the one I got to bring home with me. Considering it alongside the Glenlivet 18 year, which costs a little more than twice as much, it is quite a contender, but it doesn't have the same depth of flavor as the Lagavulin or the Glenmorangie.
Hopleaf menu wise, I can't say enough good things about the Nueskie Ham Sandwitch. Good ham, good pumpernickel, grilled and served with duck fat fries. If only all bar food were like this...
Psychchef and everyone else who brought scotch, I can't thank you enough for a great event. This was my first LTH get together and I look forward to the next.