Like Andy's...Brother (I have not met Andy or his brother so will reserve judgment as to the quality of either) I can't recommend a broad area other than the very touristy Old World section where Mader's is located. However, there are some specific spots around town that might fit the bill.
For a drink and a bowl of popcorn you will not find a much deeper time warp than Von Trier's bar. Wood paneling so dark it practically drinks up light like a black hole. Lot's of old world charm. In fact, the last time we visited, if I remember correctly, the bartender was wearing
sleeve garters without the slightest hint of pretension. Sorry, no handlebar moustache.
Von Trier
2235 N Farwell Ave
Milwaukee, WI 53202
(414) 272-1775
Next up, for a full meal, is Three Brothers Restaurant. For sheer authenticity how about this landmark, fully restored Schlitz Brewery owned tavern turned into a wonderful Eastern European restaurant. The Radiecevich Family brings together Hungarian, Yugoslavian, Serbian, and a touch of Greek cuisine in a casual yet
very special setting.
For starters you've got to try the Serbian Salad of tomatoes, onions, and green peppers in a light, refreshing dressing all topped of with brilliantly pungent, sensuously creamy Serbian cheese. They claim the house specialty is a Serbian pastry called Burek; layers of phyllo dough wrapped around the filling of your choice; ground beef, cheese, or spinach and cheese. It’s good but frankly I find it to be better as a leftover after the flavors have had a chance to meld.
Better options IMHO are the roast duck, lamb, or goose. They also have excellent chicken paprikash and chevapchichi.
Three Brothers is a very small, very popular place. Reservations are almost absolutely required (you might get lucky with a chance open spot, but not likely).
Three Brother's Restaurant
2414 S. St. Clair Street
Milwaukee, WI
(414) 481-7530
Finally, although it is in that touristy Old World neighborhood, and even though it is run by a large dining corporation, Turner Hall is a magnificent throw back in time. In fact the first time I walked into Turner Hall I thought, "Wow, this is like The Berghoff on steroids!" Higher ceilings, darker wood, bigger rooms, older photographs on the walls, majestic stained glass windows high over head filtering in dramatic multicolored light that dances on the tables for four that will comfortably hold six.
Because Turner Hall is run by an anonymous holding company, about 85% of the menu is pretty mundane. But they do have a "Classics" section on the menu that serves up some excellent German cuisine including Kassler Ripchen, Roasted Pork Loin and an abundant Sausage Platter that includes Usinger Beef Sausages and Kielbasa served with huge piles of sweet and sour red cabbage and German potato salad. Friday night is the famous "
Not Quite All You Can Eat" Fish Fry, although you can get a fixed portion fish fry platter anytime.
Turner Hall
1034 N. Fourth Street
Milwaukee, WI
(414) 276-4844
ParkLaBrea, you're instincts are correct in that Milwaukee is a fantastic town to explore for "throw back" food and drink.
For anyone who makes frequent trips to our northernmost suburb, I highly recommend a possibly out of print book called Milwaukee's Best Cheap Eats, ISBN 0-9629452-5-0. We have used it successfully for nearly six years now. The only times we have been disappointed was when the recommended restaurant had unexpectedly gone out of business.
Have great trip,
Buddy