As a diner-like restaurant in the blue collar neighborhood of Cicero, La Quebrada is more mundane in its ambience than, say, La Casa de Samuel, and less exotic in its menu. That said, though, the menu continues to exhibit quite a respectable range: beef, chicken, seafood, goat....
I had lunch there with David Dickson (
dicksond) and Steve Zaransky (
stevez) recently, and was reminded of that range as well as the solid depth of their offerings, e.g., at least two different cecina offerings--one Oaxacan (with nopales and mushrooms) and the other Guerrero style (with guacamole). There's about a dozen seafood dishes, including a fish "filete" La Quebrada served with a shrimp/seafood sauce that we enjoyed as a nice counterpoint to the red meat entrees: Oaxacan-style Cecina and Lomo de Res en Chile de Arbol (see Steve's photos, upthread.) And, as I hoped, the fresh tortillas came costumed in their "Viernes" day-of-the-week-embroidered cloth that kept them demure, warm, and stylishly au courrant in their basket.
Prior to those, before our sopecita-like appetizer of Picaditas Estilo Guerrero, there was the outstanding molcajete of steaming-warm, chunky salsa. To drink, we had some good, but unremarkable horchata. More notable for me was the post-lunch coffee, which had the lagniappe of cinnamon that catches my attention and impresses me--a little something extra that raises the experience to a slightly higher than expected level without fancy menu titles hype-ing the coffee--a good example of understated, but pervasive, quality.
4859 W. Roosevelt has been the only La Quebrada site that I've visited over time (about 5 times, total); I've been to none of their other five or so locations, and so can't speak to whether or not those others have kept up to snuff as well as this externally-innocuous-looking but satisfying branch. And resonating with that satisfaction, I'm decidedly satisfied with the idea of La Quebrada on Roosevelt's maintaining its GNR status. (I'd add that I would prefer the other La Quebrada sites to be re-evaluated and supported on their own merits rather than be part of a chain-wide GNR. I'm even okay with the idea of La Q-Roosevelt being the only one renewed this cycle if no others are written-about sufficiently.)
In the ongoing discussion about the must-be-buzzworthy criterion for GNR eligibility, I am of the view that buzz is significant but not absolutely necessary for current greatness as a neighborhood restaurant. I value La Q's consistency of quality and consider it as one of a small number of time-proven reference restaurants that I would employ as benchmarks in judging new ones. It
was and
is GNR material, and I see no indication that it would not maintain that level of performance for some time to come.
--Matt
"If I have dined better than other men, it is because I stood on the shoulders of giants...and got the waiter's attention." --Sir Isaac "Ready to order NOW" Newton
"You worry too much. Eat some bacon... What? No, I got no idea if it'll make you feel better, I just made too much bacon." --Justin Halpern's dad