Ah, Boston in the spring! What could be lovelier? Well, uh, lots of places, actually. After our very brief sojourn, I think we might want to rename it the Windy City. Sheesh. We missed one lunch when our flight out of Chicago was cancelled because of weather in Boston. Then, Friday afternoon in Boston: overcast, rainy, and very windy; Saturday in Boston: sunny but very windy; Sunday in Boston: overcast, rainy, and very windy. I don’t think the wind dropped much below 20-25 mph the entire time we were there. Maybe it was their way of making us feel at home!
However, we had a great time--it's Boston after all--and had some enjoyable repasts, so on to the food. As I said, our first lunch disappeared since we didn’t even get out of Logan until about 3 p.m., about five hours behind our original schedule. Then our social obligations (we were there for a wedding) unexpectedly took away a dinner opportunity, so we were left with only few chances to eat out since we left Monday morning.
Our first meal was Friday dinner. We had a 6:30 pm reservation at erbaluce, a place that came highly recommended (see above). I apologize for the lack of pictures from erbaluce. Due to, uh, "technical difficulties" we ain't got no pictures.
(BTW, I had to look 'erbaluce' up and, after a little digging, was eventually rewarded. It is the name of a grape used to make white wines, both dry and sweet. It grows primarily in Piedmont.)
The room is small (about 15 tables total) and fairly dark. There is a central overhead light, but it was kept pretty dim. The room was about half full when we arrived shortly before 6:30 p.m.; by 7 p.m., it was full. We found it casual yet elegant in its way, high-toned without being snotty. Comfortable and welcoming. The menu changes nightly, but I’ve scanned ours to suggest the kind of food on offer. We were very warmly greeted and (except for the bread guy), the whole staff was very friendly and treated us extremely well. We were exceptionally fortunate to have Isabella as our server. She ranks among the handful of best servers I’ve ever had. Warm, extremely knowledgeable, there when we needed her and elsewhere when we didn’t. She knew the ingredients, the dishes, was able to compare, and did not shy from making forthright recommendations when asked, in short, a true gem.
erbaluce menu, page 1 (night of April 1, 2011)erbaluce menu, page 2 (night of April 1, 2011)Pie(d)montese is probably a generally useful descriptor for the menu but the menu is broader than that and tempting in many different ways. To start we were offered a plate with olive oil surrounding a small island of white...something. Our bread server was the only dud of the evening: he didn't bother to tell us what the bread was or what the olive oil island was. He also dropped off our bread in total silence the first time and never revisited. Oh well; as noted above, Isabella more than compensated for him. She told us that it is a white bean puree. Intended as a dip for the bread, I think the olive oil moat around it was unnecessary; I've never understood that particular American invention. The puree was good and an unexpected dip for the bread. After a while, though, I found the slight sweetness in the puree a bit off-putting; the Lovely Dining Companion had no such issue. LDC and I also disagreed on the bread. Neither of us could figure out exactly what it was and we kept forgetting to ask. Cut in cubes like a cornbread, it had that kind of crumb but not that flavor. It was too dark to see exactly what it was and so we're left to wonder. LDC enjoyed it; I found it a little too bland.
I began with speck served with "native" apples, sesame (both a little oil and some seeds), and mint. The Lovely Dining Companion chose a house-cured salmon bedecked with orange, sprinkled with rosemary and pink peppercorns, all atop a chicory salad. Speck, for those not familiar with it, is nothing more than ham from the Tirol (or Tyrol, depending on which side of the border you find yourself). What makes it different from other hams is that it's cured with juniper (among other things) and is cold-smoked. You can find speck on German and Czech as well as Austrian menus. Indeed, if memory serves, my first exposure came in either Switzerland or Austria. Mario Batali calls it "smoked prosciutto" but I wouldn't use that description since I think it predisposes you to think in the wrong flavor profile. But no matter.
I don't know what "native" apples are and neglected to ask. They were slightly sweet but with just enough tartness and body (flavor-wise) to stand up to the ham. On balance, I'm not entirely sure I cared for the sesame--either the oil or the seeds. It's not so much a question of working, for the dish did work. Just not, after all, a combination I would eagerly seek out again. Still, it was beautifully presented--as, indeed, all the dishes were that evening--delicious, my personal predilections notwithstanding. LDC pronounced her house-cured salmon fresh (if that makes sense) and wonderfully made. The orange was a great foil, both for the flavor and the acid, and the pink peppercorns were a great complement, if not necessarily traditional. Two excellent openers.
Dinner: I was completely torn between two entrees and turned to Isabella for help. She asked whether we had been before and, when I explained that we were in town for but a few days, said in no uncertain terms that I must have the ethereal gnocchi (potato, not semolina). Part of my attraction was the ragu of wild boar and beef braised with red vermouth and spices. It sounded absolutely intriguing. LDC chose the lasagnetta with a porcini sauce, with wild mushrooms and marjoram.
How to say? We both liked our dinners. Indeed, much of our conversation during and following dinner (and for some time thereafter) was why we only "liked" our meals and did not love them. One thought we considered was that this is (far) northern Italian cuisine. We both love the food of Rome (and further south). But, after talking about it, we don't think that's it. We have both eaten enough food from Piedmont, Friuli, Trentino, and the Veneto, to know what to expect. We know enough about and have had enough food from these regions to know what we were getting; we've simply enjoyed this food more elsewhere. We can't quite put our fingers on what it was it except to suspect we simply ordered the wrong things for that moment in time. We are both intrigued by erbaluce and would like to go again and order completely different things.
For example, while the gnocchi themselves were superb, the sauce just didn't quite satisfy. The boar was surprisingly tame and the red vermouth, while conferring a distinctiveness, didn't appeal. It was bland without being delicate, fine without being particularly enjoyable. So, too, with LDC's lasagnetta (meaning, for all intents and purposes, a little lasagna): perfectly good but lacking in intrigue or pleasure. To be sure, nothing was wrong with either dish. Neither, sadly, did we find that either entree proved sufficiently tasty that we'd be tempted to order them again--notwithstanding, in my case, the absolutely top-notch gnocchi themselves.
We had dessert. I didn't take any notes since I had asked for a copy of the menu. We got the dinner menu, but not the dessert menu. And while we can now recall most of what was on that menu, the one thing we cannot recall--of course--is the dish we had. Our apologies.
Saturday morning we were up early enough to make Mike and Patty’s a plausible option. This is a GNR if ever there was one. No sign. No indication that the place is even a restaurant from the outside. Had the LDC not seen a picture on her iphone before we went, we would probably have walked right past it.
Mike and Patty's exteriorIt is actually on the same street as erbaluce, at the other end (fairly short street), where the neighborhood is almost completely residential. It’s hard to convey the size of this place: one table for four and a shelf on another wall for two more. That's it. The room can’t be much more than fifteen feet square and about two-thirds of the space is the kitchen. Put four more people in front and no one can move. Literally.
About 75% of Mike and Patty's kitchenWe got there at exactly the right moment. One or two couples were ahead of us; I guess we shouldn't be surprised that many people opt for the food to go. Not surprisingly, the menu accommodates that option. Shortly after our arrival, the line got seriously longer, stretching well past the door and down the steps. Fortunately, it was a sunny day, but the numbers outside quickly eclipsed the number of us packed indoors.
I’m not certain that I’d use the word “character” to describe the place but I couldn’t pass up the chance to photograph a shelf showcasing a small poster praising the quality of Maine sardines AND an industrial size jar of Marshmallow Fluff®.
Maine sardines and Marshmallow Fluff® Breakfast menuMenus (breakfast and lunch) are on multiple chalkboards and they serve breakfast all day. I photographed the breakfast menu.
Breakfast torta Croque madameI ordered the breakfast torta: messy, messy, messy. Yummy, yummy, yummy. There really isn’t too much I can (or need to) add to the list of ingredients: eggs, potatoes, salsa, poblanos, refritos, avocado, cheese. Nothing exceptional except in how it all managed to come together and be even better than I expected. Everything was shoehorned onto an oversize, toasted bun. Even with the handy (and excellent) bun, handling this was a challenge. Well-conceived, well-executed, and delicious. What else can you want? LDC had a croque madame with turkey instead of ham. It (like mine) was generously portioned and more than LDC could eat, so I got to finish it. It’s worth noting that the orange juice was fresh squoze. And delicious. We’ve had enough juice that claims to be freshly squeezed that tastes otherwise to appreciate the real thing.
Too many errands and even a little sightseeing distorted our schedule and we found ourselves stuck between a few must-dos and not enough time on Saturday so lunch was very unhappily sacrificed. In the event, it would most likely have been either Portuguese or Cambodian—both of which are absent in Chicago. But it wasn’t meant to be. I know, I know: what kind of LTHer puts sightseeing and shopping ahead of food? Well, waddyagonnado?
In lieu thereof, we decided to hold our own personal little “cannoli-off.” It was after 2 pm, we hadn’t had lunch and we had to be out in Medford by 5. So we chose the time to pay visits to Mike’s, Modern, and Maria’s--all conveniently located within a few minutes of each other and a short ten-minute walk from our hotel.
Modern Pastry exterior Modern box (with aragosta/lobster tail)The first two had lines. Oy, did they have lines. Maria’s didn’t but it seemed, to my inexpert eyes, to be the most…neighborhood-y and down home with old grandmas in the kitchen, etc. It was also the only one—fwiw—where I heard Italian being spoken.
Mike's box (with Boston cream pie)We took our three boxes, found a little table nearby, set everything out in front of us, and began attracting curious Bostonians! Everyone who saw us had to stop; we received much praise for our ingenuity (jeez, I wouldn’a thought this was an unusual idea). And everyone wanted to know what we thought. You may too.
Maria's box with sfogliatelleSo here goes: we got at least one "plain" cannoli from each place with ricotta. (We got other things as well, but more of that anon.) Virtually the only distinction we could make among the three was that Mike’s shell was less sturdy. (One Bostonian volunteered that she had heard that Mike's prefills--thus leading to a shell which absorbs some moisture and becomes more subject to crumple. We express no opinion on the issue other than to note that both of the shells from Mike’s broke easily. Modern’s shell was a bit…browner. While there may have been slight differences in the filling, the thing that stood out to both our palates was how remarkably similar all three cannoli were. Seriously. One might have had very slightly sweeter filling, one may have had a touch more vanilla, but I challenge any but the most exacting palates to sit down blindfolded and distinguish them. That said, they were all excellent. Really. While I have no doubt that our subjective little tasting will sway no one (at least no one in Boston), I think it’s safe to say we’d happily chow down on cannoli from any one of these three shops.
Decisions, decisions...As you can see from the Mike's box, they make lobster tails (aragosta). The one pictured is probably close to eight inches long. It's too much. The sfogliatelle from Maria's was superior in every way: flakiness, tenderness, and filling. This is, arguably, comparing apples and oranges, but we agreed that less is more. LDC also insisted that since this was likely to be her only opportunity, she needed a piece of Boston cream pie. No matter that the Parker House, where the stuff was invented for goshsakes, was a two-minute walk from our hotel. She wasn't impressed and neither was I. I think the dissatisfaction in both cases sprung primarily from the fact that we simply aren't fans of the item, not that it was a poor exemplar.
Many thanks again to all those who posted above; we're very grateful for your help and advice.
erbaluce
69 Church Street (Bay Village)
(617) 426 6969
http://erbaluce-boston.com/Mike and Patty's
12 Church Street (Bay Village)
(617) 423-3447
http://mikeandpattys.com/Mike's Pastry
300 Hanover Street
(617) 742-3050
http://mikespastry.com/Modern Pastry
257 Hanover Street
(617) 523-3783
http://modernpastry.com/Maria's Pastry Shop
46 Cross Street
(617) 523-1196
(no website)
Last edited by
Gypsy Boy on April 19th, 2011, 6:47 am, edited 1 time in total.
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)