I spent a sun drenched, cosmic weekend in Joshua Tree at the beginning of the summer and also spent a few nights hitting up some new-to-me spots in LA on the way in and out of the desert.
We stayed at an Air BnB in trendy Silver Lake and having just arrived off an early am flight, famished, we took our renter's suggestion of a pho shop down the street named
Pho Café. At first blush, the sleek design of the space misled me to believe this was going to be over priced and under seasoned, but we were pleasantly surprised. A sweaty morning already, I passed on pho and ordered bun. I was covetous of the soup though, after tasting my bud's rich, star anise inflected broth. The bun was great too with lemongrass beef that was aggressively seasoned and tenderly textured. Pairing well with rounds of Vietnamese beers was the sugarcane shrimp, served piping hot with a piquant nuom choc, fresh herbs, and DIY rice paper and lettuce for wrapping. The skewers had great char and a pleasantly bouncy texture. I enjoyed this meal so much, I nearly returned for a last dinner on the back end of the trip, but we opted to try a new option. This food was considerably more fresh, higher quality, and properly seasoned than nearly any I've had in Chicago.
For our first dinner, I chose Northern Thai at
Spicy BBQ further up Sunset which had been hyperbolically tweeted about by the Hungry Hound. The place was cute as a button, a well cared for hole in the wall with maybe three two tops and an equal amount of four tops. Everything about this place resonated with love from the adorably attentive service to the handmade quality of the food. I was with a posse of 5 dudes and we were well on our way to inebriation, so appetites were ravenous and photo snapping was tenuous at best. The first dish– a round of fried catfish was inhaled. The very crispy fish was served straight up and the marinade had a hint of fish sauce, but for the most part was dead simple.
Northern style sausage was as good as most versions I've had, coarse ground and garlicky with bright notes of ginger and kaffir lime leaf. It was just a shade dry, but enjoyable.
This larb dish was fantastic. It had both cracklins and crunchy chips of fried liver. This was perhaps not as complexly offal-funky as Aroy's larb khun, though it made up for this deficit with its textural intrigue.
The rest of my photos of the meal were sh#t, so to recap: the papaya salad with grilled shrimp was very unique and had a rougher chopped, rustic style than I am used to. Also odd was the heavy presence of shredded carrot mixed with the papaya, which did not actually detract much. The shrimp were succulent and sweet, rounding out an enjoyable dish. The hands down favorite of our table was a spicy jackfruit dish that was cooked down thick and rich with ground pork, almost like a Thai style Bolognese, unexpectedly awesome. The dishes at Spicy BBQ, though familiar to Northern Thai menus here in Chicago, had a more rustic quality, a welcomed twist on a cuisine that I very much love.
Bleary eyed lunch the next day was at a spot all East side my buddies frequent for lunch,
Guisados. We hit up the newer, trendier Echo Park location because we were starving and out-of-town drivers– we opted for ease over authenticity. The space was cool, with a counter to order fronting the exposed kitchen with a breezy dining area off to the side and a really laid back back patio where we chose to enjoy our lunch. The women patting out hand-made tortillas next to the counter seemed a good omen. Ceviche tostadas were on special:
No complaints here, though the factory produced tostada shell paled in comparison to the hand made tortillas.
Speaking of their tortillas, they really stole the show. My order of tacos, clockwise from front: chicharron, cochinta pibil, hongos. One gimmick I was not a fan of was ordering your tacos on a hotness scale. They basically would pre-dress the tacos with more or less salsa depending on your answer, though orders at a 9 or a 10 were loaded up with grilled jalapeño. I think I went with 7, though totally wished I'd had my own agency of the amount of salsa used. I don't like taco joints that do not put out table salsa, which to me seems paradoxical to the wonderful garnish bars featured on most LA taco trucks. But back to the tacos, the gooey chicharron was my fave. The mushrooms were just fine, simple, needed more salsa. The cochinita was of an unusual sauced variety and totally shredded. The sauce was not the typical habanero salsa, which was served atop, but a kind of vaguely chile based BBQ style sauce. Not my favorite. But those tortillas, among the best. In general I like LA tortillas a bit more than ours here, they are smaller, a bit chewier, and much moister than Chicago made tortillas (not complaining about our fine tortillas scene here). They are closer related to street tortillas I've had in Mexico. Guisados are among the best of the bunch.
Our final dinner was chosen by my bud, a native Angelino. It being a Thai food obsessed recent past, we went Thai again, this time heading to Korea town to his new favorite spot,
Isaan Station. On the surface, the place appears to be a overly-designed, youth-centric strip mall joint, though one quick glimpse into their behind glass semi-exposed kitchen revealed grandma going to town on a mortar and pestle on some pounded salad goods. I let the pro do the ordering and it was 40% knock out, 40% really good and the one miss was just my own preferences at play. The best dishes had huge flavors, no skimping on the chilies.
I snapped all dishes except, oddly, the two chicken dishes. The first of the chicken dishes was from the grilled section of the menu, turmeric marinated chicken, which was succulent and aromatic, real good. The second was a classic, fish sauce marinated fried chicken wings, which were fried well though could have had a deeper salty funk.
This being Isaan Station, we had to order the Isaan sausage. A great version, cut into coins from a longer link rather than small nugget links that we typically see around the Chi. The flavor profile was slightly understated, though not in a bad way, than the other versions I've had, with a lighter ferment and somewhat less greasy profile.
Grilled pork neck, similarly to the chicken wings, were under seasoned, though expertly grilled and had a nice smokiness. That dipping sauce brought the business though, unfiltered fish sauce- based with heavy-duty bird's eye action.
This salad of shredded bamboo shoots took no prisoners. Full on crazy bamboo shoot funk spiked with chilies, fish sauce, and aromatics.
Som dtum with salted egg was the one dish that didn't agree with me. Something about hard-cooked eggs in a cold citrusy dressing just isn't my thing.
This salad of cockles was the one. I've only had cockles served to me in a styrofoam cup in English pubs before which always had the texture of an eraser. These guys were plump, briny, and had a pleasant crunch. The dressing was assertively fishy, hot, and sour. Probably my favorite dish of the whole trip.
Like I mentioned earlier, I think we are pretty spoiled with Thai options in Chicago, but even amongst regional styles, approaches vary kitchen to kitchen and it was truly awesome trying out some different renditions of my favorites and some completely new-to-me dishes.
LA never disappoints!
Pho Café
2841 W Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
(213) 413-0888
Spicy BBQ
5101 Santa Monica Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90029
(323) 663-4211
Guisados
1261 W Sunset Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90026
(213) 250-7600
Isaan Station
125 N Western Ave, Los Angeles 90004
(323) 380-5126