Milktooth, Indianapolis

Should have posted this earlier, after root canal surgery at my friends' dental practice in downtown Indianapolis, we parked the car and walked to Milktooth, the celebrated breakfast lunch destination. We attended the chef's soft opening of his dinner spot months ago, Beholder, and were decidedly unimpressed. So it goes. Milktooth lives up to its name, and after oral surgery, how fun is that?! Packed room, line out the door, communal table. One guy had a table all to himself reading Uzumaki. Weird. I double fisted a beautifully-spicy bloody mary and a housemade crisp apple soda. One of the cooks behind the open bar/kitchen sported my favorite Goose charcuterie ball cap. I required soft food after my surgery. I ordered the capicolla gumbo with grilled cornbread. Seriously, one of the best gumbos I have ever had and I immediately recognized the capicolla as Smoking Goose capicolla. Apparently, I chose correctly, because the lone guy at the big table in the packed room reading Uzumaki was having gumbo as well. Great spice/heat integration, perfect julienne of radish, butternut squash creme just lovely, and, the local charcuterie. My Opa who spent a formative portion of his childhood in Louisiana would have appreciated this unusual, wonder of a gumbo.

Milktooth
434 Virginia Ave
Indianapolis, IN 46203
317-986-5131

Milktooth is indeed a fantastic restaurant. I usually go at least once every time I'm in Indy. I would describe it as an eclectic casual menu but every item is made with very high quality and attention to detail. At one point they were serving these jerk chicken thighs which were -no shit - the best jerk chicken I have ever had in my life. Better than homemade or any I've had from Jamaican spots. My Indy friend loved them so much he finagled a paper printed copy of the recipe out of the head chef. These are no longer on the menu but I would not hesitate to recommend any other item they serve.

Indeed, the menu is shortish, but everything sounds yummy enough that it is hard to decide what to get. Of course, I had to take into account my root canal (and temporary crown) of thirty minutes before. The room was hoppin'. And, seated at a communal table I was able to surreptitiously eyeball other guests' plates. My partner wasn't as pleased with his super rich raclette/gouda grilled cheese and I offered it might require a mixed green side salad. Working in the cheese industry(I once brought a big wedge of Wildspitz to Chef Brown at Ukiyo). I tried to warn him off. Not that it was bad by any means; just super heavy. Then there are all of the magnificent pastries! I am not a sweets guy necessarily, but he is, and regretted not going that route. I dream of that gumbo. I used to sell Smoking Goose hot capicolla at a store down the street from Gramercy Park.