Restaurant Recs for Bordeaux, Carcassone, Aix de Prov. etc.

Friends of TPA and I are leaving for their honeymoon in France on Monday. The itinerary is as follows:

20th Paris
21 Bordeaux
22 Bordeaux
23 Carcassonne
24 Aix de Provence
25 Aix de Provence
26 3nts San Tropez Pinede
29 and 30th Monte Carlo
1oct Paris

Most of their more substantial meals have been booked. They are looking now to learn of any interesting, small and/or local jewels on the way. Any suggestions?

about halfway between Carcasonne and Aix-en-Provence there is a small town on the Mediterranean called Sote that is known for its Bouillabaise. It's been years, but I remember one of the finest bowls of fish broth I have ever tasted. It's a picturesque little fishing town, with many restaurants around the harbor. A warning though, the bouillabaise contains a lot of fish bones, which impart terrific flavor but make the eating slow going as you pick out the fish bones.

Aix is a great town and I remember distinctly having, over the course of four or five days, no single bad eating experience. On the contrary, almost all the meals were really great if not excellent. I have notes on that sojourn in an old journal but can't find them at the moment. I'll look some more as I start to dismantle my office for moving.

One thing that has really stuck in my memory was going to an outdoor market (I think it was on a Saturday but they probably have a couple per week; this one was in a small place, northeast part of town) and buying several kinds of cheese and saucisson from different vendors/makers. Your friends should maybe inquire about what the market days are and check them out. It's lots of fun to see all the produce and wares and one can put together a great picnic.

Antonius

Sounds a little peripatetic for a honeymoon, though I know a couple that is taking nearly the same trip (apparently for the engagement, not the follow-up) soon.

I enjoyed Eze near Monte Carlo. The Chevre d'Or is very cool, and the restaurant is terrific.

The husband-to-be has real difficulty in sitting still. "High energy" doesn't quite capture his character, so it's surprising he's staying in any one place for more than one night.

I will second the recommendation for Sete. Great, simple seafood in a crowded, family place. We made new friends. This was for my honeymoon which was 20 years ago, so I do not know the name of the specific place, but there were a number of similar choices down by the harbor.

Carcassonne is a tourist joint, so I would not look for anything exciting as to food there (though it sure looks cool). Aix is the place where you will get the best chow, but I would just rely on my chow instincts (which means I do not know any places), and recs you can find. If you have not, I would also post the query on CH.

If the itinerary was not set, I would suggest you skip Bordeaux and the Cote d'Azure and explore Perigord. Better food, prettier countryside, amazing history, etc. And you would be there in full truffle season. The down side is that the rivers would be at low water level, so the rides through the gorges would not be as much fun as in the spring.

If the itinerary was not set, I would suggest you skip Bordeaux and the Cote d'Azure and explore Perigord.

These are not necessarily chowists, but most certainly oenophiles. They just moved into a new home with a 1000 bottle wine cellar that they are seeking to fill.

I suppose the Paris stuff is already booked, but...

L'AS Du Falafel -The true Falafel. Awesome, best in the world in my mind with Hot Sauce and Eggplant. MMMM. The falafel balls are made to order and the homemade lemonade is maybe the best in Paris.

4th Arrondissement

Chez Guichi- decor is like truckstop diner, but great North African cuisine, and more importantly Foie Gras en Brochette that is awesome and cheap. They also have this awesome relish tray served with every meal that includes a conglomeration of peppers.

18th Arrondissement

L'Affriole

A little midscale/upscale, but the freshness at this place was memorable. I still remember the spicy radishes served with Fleur de Sel as an amuse and the juicy nectarines served as mignardise. Everything in between was a solid modern influence french gourmet. More like Spring in Bucktown in its purity, but without the spiritual essences take on stuff.

Can't remember the Arrondissement

HI,

Patricia Wells no longer updates her famous guidebook. However, her website is updated with new restaurant information which can be downloaded into a pda.

Patricia Wells, hmmm, where have I seen that name before?

Regards,

They may be in trouble seeing wineries (at least in Bordeaux). The commune has declared that week as the harvest (I am not sure of the exact dates).

Cathy2 wrote:Patricia Wells no longer updates her famous guidebook. However, her website is updated with new restaurant information which can be downloaded into a pda.

When I was last in Paris (over a year ago), I found the Time Out restaurant guide MUCH better, more comprehensive, and up-to-date than Patricia Wells.

To clarify - looks like Merlot harvest starts on Right Bank around the 22nd and one week later on the Left Bank. St. Emilion expects to begin on the 25th...

They may be in trouble seeing wineries (at least in Bordeaux). The commune has declared that week as the harvest (I am not sure of the exact dates).

They are pretty high rollers and have had their private vineyard visits scheduled for a while.

We spent a little more than a week in Paris and Bordeaux a few years ago, and I can't remember any of the restaurant names we were at (although I could probably find them again).

The Bordeaux region, aside from its wine, is known for duck production -- to a large degree for foix gras, but also for just plain eatin'. I believe several of the major chateaux use post-squeezed grapes for duck feed.

In any case, we had some excellent duck while there. The region is also known for its oysters, but I wouldn't know, not being fond of oysters, raw or cooked.

Hi

We are looking for recs in St. Emilion - David thought he had booked us in a place that had a restaurant, but apparently only for breakfast

I think we'll just be missing your friends in Bordeaux, MAG!