I have heard critics -- for instance, Ruth Reichl --say that even if they're recognized, there's not much the restaurant can do to dress up or disguise the quality of their food and service, the claim that, in effect, a good critic can reliably 'see through' to a restaurant's real caliber. For both those who are supportive and those who are dismissive of the importance of critics' anonymity to their fair and reliable judgments of restaurants -- do you buy that claim? If so, then why worry so much about anonymity, after all? If not, then why not? What is it that chefs, servers, sommeliers and maitre d's can do to successfully improve the critics' impressions of their restaurant?
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