Reading through this thread, I gather that people have encountered some hits and misses at Fat Rice, but I'm nonetheless delighted to see this unusual restaurant get James Beard recognition.
I'd like to take my brother, next time he's in town, to Fat Rice for old times' sake. A little more than 20 years ago -- the year of the handover of Hong Kong -- I went with one of my brothers to visit another brother who was stationed in Hong Kong. He was supposed to have left before the handover, but his wife was close to giving birth and couldn't travel by air. My brother had a high-rise apartment in the Mid-Levels (about halfway up to Victoria Peak), and from that base, we explored not only Hong Kong but also Taipei (visited grad school friends there), the Kowloon Peninsula, the New Territories, the Big Buddha on Lantau Island, and Macau. We had memorable food experiences all along the way.
Macau was lovely. I will never forget wandering the night market at the foot of
the ruins of St Paul's, lit up at night, the old Portuguese cannons mounted on fort walls along the shore, and a great dinner we had at a highly recommended and very old restaurant (I vaguely recall that this might have been at that time one of the oldest restaurants if not the oldest restaurant in Macau?), the name of which, alas, I can't remember 20 years on. But I have a great photo of my brother holding up the duck head that came with his dish to prove it was real duck that he was served. I have a feeling that I won't get a duck head on my plate at Fat Rice.
The Reader article mentions "the dwindling population of Asians with Portuguese ancestry" in Macau. My brother spoke fluent Mandarin but sometimes had a little trouble with cab drivers' Cantonese in Hong Kong, and similarly in Macau, Cantonese predominates, not Mandarin, although my brother's Mandarin served us well enough. Wandering around the shops and food stalls on my own sometimes, I found that I could usually find an older lady or gentleman with whom I could converse fairly well using my Spanish and their Portuguese. But that was 20 years ago.
"Your swimming suit matches your eyes, you hold your nose before diving, loving you has made me bananas!"