This is the second GNR I've tried on the recommendation of the board, and it always amazes me how much even the commentary and the beautiful pictures (thanks G Wiv) fail to capture the sheer brilliance of a restaurant.
Today was the first beautiful day of spring, so a fellow gastronomer and I went to Chinatown. Chinatown is obviously not a place one wants to frequent at night (even during the day we saw some shady characters) and a crosstown trip on the L during the snow didn't sound fun, so today was the day. I was torn between LTH and LSC, but because my friend is not a fan of seafood and I knew I needed to try the Salt and Pepper Shrimp at LTH, we went for LSC. First, don't try and go in the back door to the place, convenient though it may seem.
The menu here is overwhelming. I mean, pages and pages of options. I knew basically what we wanted already, but that doesn't mean you can turn away. My impression is that you could eat there literally a year on different possible meals. Instead, we went with soup, pan fried noodles, orange chicken, and Tony's 3 Chili Chicken.
I had the hot and sour soup. It smelled divine, even on a warm day. I would call it good and largely unremarkable. I missed some of the flavor of this dish due to scalding myself on it (a fact the waitress neglected to mention). More pleasurable to smell than to taste.
The pan fried noodles were next. Delicious. Just a little bit of charring on the bottom to give it a crunchy texture, but very well flavored noodles in a slightly sweet sauce. I found the beef a little rubbery, and the shrimp were either delicious (where the first bite in explodes flavor in your mouth) or mediocre.
The orange chicken and Tony's Chicken with 3 Chilis came out next. The orange chicken was a concession to my friend. (I wanted something like the Cumin Lamb or the Beef with Maw.) I'd eat the sauce again in a minute, but largely forget about the chicken. The sauce was of what I consider a more authentic style. Flavored with actual orange zest/rind and lacking the cloying sweetness of the Americanized versions, it was tasty without being overpowering. The chicken was in pieces about the size of a roll of quarters. Troubling not only because I couldn't identify what part of the chicken it came from (dark meat, not light), but also because it was too large to eat comfortably with either fork or chopsticks.
Tony's Chicken with 3 Chilis made the trip worthwhile. I was near foodgasm when I tasted it. (The first GNR caused the same reaction: the foie gras burger at Sweets & Savories.) It's an attractive dish, first off. It looks good, it smells good. It has an almost crunchy mouthfeel without tasting the least bit fried, and it's *dry*. I don't know why I thought people were confused when they said that or what, but I didn't realize that this dish was singlehandedly China's answer to dry rub. Every part of this dish works well together. A sweet heat. It's my first trip to Chinatown in a while, but very unlikely to be my last.
Unsurprisingly, I recommend. Will be back to try more adventurous fare.